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- 3 Nights in London, England
Spending the past three days in London significantly reminded us of our years living as New Yorkers . Minus the landmark royal buildings, we found the two cities to have many uncanny resemblances in their architecture, the characteristics of the neighborhoods, and the flooded sidewalks. Some notable differences between the two cities are that although London is also heavily populated, you barely hear any cars honking and rarely see litter on the streets. Also, unlike the Big Apple, London has managed its homeless population. Finally, London is even more cosmopolitan than New York drawing a massive international crowd with more languages spoken than any other city; we hardly heard the adorable British accent we were looking forward to lovingly mimicking. While Manhattan is known for its sweltering summer heat, we didn't pack in preparation for London's grey summer skies and low temperatures. The unexpected chilly weather, however, allowed for easy walking through the city, walking eight to ten miles a day is a cinch when you're not hot and the sun isn't beating you down. With iconic landmarks, a rich royal history, a diverse culture leading to available global cuisine, great shopping, and easy walkability, a visit to London guarantees a wonderful vacation experience. Where to Stay: You’ll love the design, amenities, and location of this swanky hotel decorated by Tom Dixon. Its Waterloo location is central to many of the main tourist attractions and neighborhoods you’ll want to visit while in London . From Sea Containers we were able to walk everywhere from our hotel. Yet we also loved being on the other side of the river with less foot traffic and no swarms of tourists in our way as we ventured out to start our days or when we returned to unwind from a long day of explorations. The family suite is quite large with two bathrooms, a dining room table that seats ten, and stunning city views. In addition, they have a fully stocked gym, two highly acclaimed bars, a great restaurant, filtered water stations on each floor, spacious elevators, friendly staff, and major perks like having a peloton delivered to rooms! Day One: Walk and Walk and Walk Walking is the best way to get to know a city. Sea Containers Hotel is primely located to launch you straight to Westminister Bridge leading you to many Monarch masterpieces. No trip to London would be complete without an up-close viewing of the Westminster Abby to appreciate its exquisite architecture, magnificent structural detail, and iconic Big Ben Clock Tower . From there continue towards Trafalgar Square , passing by other historic buildings and sculptures of the many men who contributed to Britain. At the square, have a seat by the fountain to people watch or perhaps you’ll be lucky to catch a concert. Continue your journey towards Buckingham Palace, pause, and imagine the lives of English royalty for a moment or two. Check the changing of the guard schedule in advance to watch this traditional shift change live in action. Next, cut through Green Park and admire the rows of massive trees and interesting art installations. Then walk to Piccadilly Street, most famous for its historic hotels and shopping which will get you to Hyde Park and eventually to the upscale Mayfair part of town. This is a great walking itinerary that weaves you through different neighborhoods and will leave you with a great feel for each. An Untraditional High-Tea at Sketch Skip the formalities and reserve a table at Sketch for an unconventional high tea in a whimsical setting at the hotel’s Gallery Room. A string trio plays classical music while a well-dressed young crowd sips champagne and nibbles on finger sandwiches in a trendy atmosphere that exudes nouveau riche. Bask in the Bathrooms The bathrooms at Sketch are a work of art, an immersive experience like no other. This modernistic art installation of egg-shaped toilet pods is the perfect Instagram backdrop for those captures that go viral. Transport to the Times of Tower of London Book a self-guided audio tour and travel in time to the Medieval days of betrayal and treachery under King Henry VIII. The tour describes in detail all the royal buildings behind the fortress walls and invites you to enter each one to view original rooms, crown collections, torture devices, and more! No other tour we’ve ever been on has provided unlimited access like this one. This is a great tour for all ages. Chinatown Many major cities have a Chinatown and it's always colorful, lively, and fun to visit wherever you find yourself. London's Chinatown is no exception. Include walking through on your walking itinerary. Leicester Square & Covent Garden Leicester Square, known for its theaters, casinos, and centrally located park attracts many visitors; the energy was contagious on the day we visited. Equally so, Covenant Garden was filled with excitement as street performers entertained at every corner and cafes donned packed patios. Satiate Your Sweet Tooth at Ben's Cookies , Covent Garden This tiny cookie hut emits tantalizing scents of freshly baked cookies that wrap around Covent Garden’s open-air market. To find their shop follow your nose and you’ll be led to a long cue of others waiting for their chance at these divine creations served right out of the oven. Dishoom for Dinner, That's an Order Celebrity Chef Naved Nasir brings together the food of Iran and Bombay in one of London’s hottest tickets. If you don’t reserve in advance, expect a line of at least an hour by 5:00 pm. Unlike many restaurants, the buzz is certainly worthy in this large, lively establishment that truly perfects the balance of flavors and spices in each dish. We ordered vegetable samosas, plain naan, garlic naan, the Pau Bhaji (mashed vegetables with hot, homemade buns), gunpowder potatoes (smashed grilled potatoes with aromatic seeds and herbs), jackfruit biryani, a bowl of greens with chili and limes, and the house special black daal that is famously cooked for twenty-four hours to arrive at rich and bold flavors Your mouth will burst with joy at the harmonious marriage of ingredients in each dish. Don’t worry about British etiquette, this meal is meant to be eaten with your hands as you dip naan into everything possible. Toast the Day If you follow this itinerary you will log ten miles of walking by 6:00 pm. This deserves a toast! Sip on craft cocktails at Lyaness , known as one of London's best bars with many awards under its belt. The metallic, holographic menu will catch your attention instantly but as you read through the menu you'll be blown away by the creativity of the cocktails. The Goose & Gander (Grey Goose, Szechuan sauce, and soda) is fantastic. Day Two: Begin your Day with Breakfast at the Hotel The breakfast buffet served in the lobby restaurant serves an abundant spread of hot foods, pastries, cheeses, fruit, etc... along with a menu of made-to-order eggs. However, the offerings remained the same for the three mornings we ate there making the meal redundant and less enticing. They brew delicious coffee though, and they have cream for coffee which is the one ingredient I missed most in Italy! TIP: venture out for breakfast if you can! Ride the London Eye for a Bird's Eye View Set your fear of heights aside to see a bird's eye view of London and catch a ride on the London Eye . At 443 feet tall at its highest point, it held the title of the world’s largest Ferris Wheel until just a few years ago when China built a taller one. The guide on the speaker will point out some significant buildings and provide context to the majestic view below during the thirty-minute ride. Buy tickets in advance for as early in the day as possible. Walk to Covent Garden and Neal's Yard Covent Garden is a large neighborhood, make sure to explore it to grasp each section's unique charm. The northern section is dotted with vintage shops and mom-and-pop shops. In this part of town, you'll also find Neal's Yard , a hidden nook off a side street filled with restaurants, cafes, and high-end shops. Do you think you've spotted a Banksy in Neil's Yard ? Think again. Bambi, a famous local artist, painted this as an ode to Princess Di imagining her coming down to her grandkids and whispering to them "You can be as naughty as you want, just don't get caught". Have a Delicious Lunch in One of London's Best The Barbary While researching where to dine in London , The Barbary kept showing up as one of London’s best restaurants featuring North African cuisine with Israeli influences. Main seating is around a horseshoe bar looking into the kitchen's grill that pumps out masterpieces while music pours into the room creating a fun atmosphere that makes you want to dance while watching your food prepared. During our visit, we ordered Moroccan cigars stuffed with whitefish, two orders of falafel ( because they were that good), grilled chicken, labneh with grilled eggplant, Za’aluk (a sauce of tomatoes and grilled eggplant), hummus, grilled halloumi, harissa, zhoug, and of course Jerusalem bagel and naan to wipe our plates clean. We left singing songs of praise. Hitch a Taxi to East London Hoxton Square is surrounded by eateries from around the world satiating any of your international cravings. The hipster hood pops with color on its vibrant streets where you'll find indie art galleries, funky shops, and loads of coffee shops. Trendy and young, Hoxton bursts with creativity and seamlessly flows into Shoreditch, another great part of London to discover. Brick Lane Indian specialized shops, markets, and restaurants make Brick Lane the ultimate destination for those who love anything India-related. Some restaurants had small crowds waiting to be seated, a good sign that wonderful, authentic cuisine awaits inside. As you walk through, take note of the neighborhood’s charming characteristics – colorful graffiti, residents’ names spelled with scrabble game pieces, Uber eats drivers lined up on their scooters waiting to be beckoned, and locals hanging out on the sidewalks. Shop Local at Spitalfields Market Artisans line up their booths in this massive market that showcases local talent across many genres. If you have room in your suitcase to take gifts back home, this is the place to shop for unique items. You’ll find handmade jewelry, gorgeous hand-embroidered scarves, hand-painted coasters, ceramic dishes, distinctive clothing, and loads of other interesting items that make great gifts. Even if you don’t have room in your luggage to shop, like me, you’ll at least be inspired by the talent surrounding you. Spitalfields Akin to the East Village in the Big Apple , there is a young energy of hipsters weaving in and out of the side streets, sipping on their oat milk latte, as they stroll the streets on a Sunday. Vintage stores and artist-run shops make up most of the neighborhood along with pubs and diners. You’ll find all sorts of fun stuff for sale like hand-painted Doc Martens or insanely priced coffee mugs. Don’t let the unpretentious appearance sway you into thinking you can stumble upon a deal here. Price tags are steep, albeit everything sold is extremely unique. The City (aka Financial District) St. Paul's Cathedral prominently stands in the heart of the City of London. At first glance, you may confuse it with the state capital building. Walking through the heart of the city gives you a sense of modern skyscrapers juxtaposed with Medieval alleys and the precious preservation of old and new. Caffeine Fix at CrossTown Famous for their award-winning doughnuts, CrossTown also makes dreamy lattes and smoothies like the berry bounce smoothie with blueberry, raspberry, mango & papaya. After a long day of walking eight miles, this Waterloo cafe gives a great boost. Libations at Lyaness The cocktails at Lyaness are so good, we returned for a second evening. This time I sipped on their Doc Americano mixed with Tanqueray, carrot vermouth, Campari, and honey soda. You cannot go wrong with any of their incredibly creative cocktails. Dine with a View at OXO Tower Restaurant, Bar, and Brasserie As you enter the rooftop lobby, you have OXO Brasserie to your left and OXO Restaurant to your right. We opted for a fine dining experience in the restaurant with views overlooking the River Thames and St. Paul’s Cathedral . I knew we were in good hands starting with my well-made smoked cucumber and grilled pineapple margarita,. Although portions are small, flavors are big. The beef fillet and scallops were beautifully prepared and the deconstructed chocolate cheesecake made for an especially satisfying ending to a great meal. Day Three: Continue Your Discovery of London Along the River Thames Walk With an Appetite Walk along the river through Bankside, stop at one of its many cafes and stroll through this waterside neighborhood admiring the art and architecture. Binge on the Treats in Borough Yards Keep walking towards Borough Yards , a stunningly designed indoor market of fine foods and goods. The rounded wooden hallways leading to the shops make for a gallery-like experience. If you’re missing a football match while shopping, they have you covered in the outdoor seating with a designated screen for games. Browse the Stalls at Borough Market Essentially an outdoor farmer’s market, but way cooler since it’s in London, Borough Market has everything locals need to stock their kitchens with fresh produce, baked goods, cheeses, fish, and meats. The temptation to buy it all will kick in, restraint is not required. Make Ethical Decisions and Buy Tony's Chocolonely This Dutch-based chocolate company is committed to eradicating slavery in the cacao industry and Brits are obsessed with the concept and flavor. The dark chocolate almond and sea salt bar along with the dark chocolate with creamy hazelnut bar are a delightful guilt-free pleasure. As the English say, "for pudding"have yourself a chocolate treat! London made me a tad nostalgic for my days in the Big Apple, reminding me of my life as a former New Yorker living in a bustling, diverse city spending most of my days walking to my destination and having many fantastic ethnic restaurants available to my every whim. I didn’t expect the two cities to so closely resemble one another making London very familiar and easy to navigate. NYC is a bit more rough around the edges- louder, dirtier, and more ridden with crime yet I love it with its imperfections and oddly a three-night stay in London made me appreciate it more than I have since leaving three years ago. After 3 nights in Naples , 2 nights in Amalfi , 7 nights in Santa Maria di Leuca , 7 nights in Valle d’Itria , and 3 nights in London, I can honestly write that San Diego is the best place to call home.
- 7 Nights Northern Puglia, Italy
The notable differences between the south and north of Puglia will immediately strike you. While the southern region of Salento gains points for its untouched purity, simplicity, lack of foreign tourists, and its slightly "rough around the edges" charm, the north of Apulia (the Italian name for Puglia) is more heavily populated by tourists, a touch more sophisticated, and more easily manageable for Americans who don't speak Italian since most Italians speak English in this region. Valle d'Itria is packed with bustling towns, infinite restaurants specializing in seafood dishes, and beaches at every turn. Olive trees dominate the landscape with the Adriatic Sea on the horizon. The temperatures while still high, are cooler in the north. Both areas of Italy's boot heel operate at a decadently slow place. While the food in both regions is exceptional, I cannot think of a place on our planet that has continuously and consistently fed us so well as Valle d'Itria. We were convinced each meal was the best one until the next meal came. Our trip unexpectedly turned into a food tour, immersing us in the local foods and as a result, the culture of the people. Below is the ideal seven-night itinerary in this glorious part of Italy , perfectly balanced with lazy lido days and sightseeing and always with tantalizing Puglian cuisine. Where to Stay: We booked a villa in Monopoli, located in the Valle d'Itria region of northern Apulia through The Thinking Traveller , a leading concierge vacation rental company that repeatedly holds the title of "best villa rental service in the world" by Conde Naste. This is our third time renting a home through them and each time we've thought that we struck on the most incredible property, the next one somehow manages to outdo the other. The rental service has a portfolio of stunning vacation rentals that are impeccably maintained and completely stocked for your vacation needs. No detail is left overlooked from being greeted by the villa owners who always gift guests with an abundance of local treats, produce, and wines to a 24/7 concierge team who addresses any need that may arise. Our assigned concierge, Joanna, worked with me on planning our trip for ten months. She was always at my disposal to answer questions and make reservations as needed. With Thinking Traveller on our side we have always been able to arrive at our destination and not think about or plan a single thing. Thanks to their services, we enjoyed the most epic eight days in northern Puglia with a vacation that balanced beach days and explorations, one filled with great meals throughout the days, and the most stunning and centrally located Puglian property surrounded by hundreds of acres of olive trees, an original trullo on site (traditional cone roofed hut of the region), and breathtaking grounds. Day One: Check Into Your Villa Unpack, pour yourself a glass of local wine, and explore the grounds of your temporary home for the week. Consider hiring a chef to prepare your dinner as you ease into your first vacation day in a new location. Our chef, Annalisa, spoiled us with a spread of antipasti that included a variety of local cheeses, a Caprese salad, local pane (bread), and a sample of focaccias. For our first course, we enjoyed orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta popular in Apulia ) followed by a perfectly grilled sea bass topped with olives and roasted potato slices (I'm stealing this recipe!) sided with a salad. To end our meal, she served us with her homemade tiramisu. What an ideal way to launch the new week! Day Two: We hired Annalisa for the duration of our stay to prepare breakfast for us daily. Compared to the United States, hiring a cook is more affordable in Apulia. Our highlight of this morning's meal was the omelet she prepared stuffed with ricotta and mint. We've never had mint in our eggs and loved being introduced to this delightful flavor combination! Find a Lido You Love Coccaro Beach Club is my idea of perfection. This luxury lido has everything you can hope for - sophistication, doting beachside service, great cocktails, massage rooms (the scalp massage treatment is divine), and a clear, aqua coast. For the first time in our eight days in Puglia, we heard English spoken by both Americans and the staff. I missed practicing my Italian like we did in southern Puglia but I also loved lounging here for hours and being flawlessly catered to in the ways Americans on vacation like to be. Lunch at the lido Their "ciccio pizza" with mozzarella, salmon, and pickled zucchini strings deserves an award. I have nothing else to report. Pool Time at the Vacation Rental If you're going to splurge on a beautiful vacation property, you should aim to enjoy it as much as possible. Heading to the rental when the sun peaks is a great time to swim, cool off, play lawn games, and relax before dinner. Dine on Delightful Regional Fare for Dinner La Locanda sul Porto is the only restaurant during our entire stay in Italy filled with diners by 7:30 pm, which is usually an early start time for dinner by Italian standards. As we dined we witnessed many walk-ins being turned away by the host stand because the night was booked. Dozens walked over to make a reservation for the next evening. Once we received our dishes we understood what the buzz was all about. Not only is the restaurant beautifully appointed, but its menu of mostly seafood delivers dishes to die for. The bruschetta sampler plate was pure fun to share allowing us to experience the different flavors that work so well on top of a slice of bread: tuna, basil pesto, mozzarella, almonds; salmon, grilled pepper, mustard mayo, and honey; red prawns, spinach, sun-dried tomato cream, and hazelnuts; prawns, ricotta, courgettes. The octopus and potato salad with red onion mousse and black olive powder had me counting my blessings. Their pasta is exceptional and uniquely prepared like the spaghettoni with plum tomatoes, aubergine pesto, swordfish, and toasted almonds. The kitchen wins guests over with the wow factor delivered in each bite. Day Three: Wake up to a lovely table loaded with various bites, frothy cappuccinos, and delicious rustico stuffed with Formaggio. When hiring a chef in Italy, breakfast will quickly become your favorite meal. Plant Yourself on Your Property: What's the point of renting a perfect vacation home if you don't spend a worthwhile amount of time enjoying it? We were thrilled to have our friends from San Diego join us today for three nights. The entire day was spent with them poolside, eating a huge alfresco lunch, getting massages under a five-hundred-year-old olive tree, and lounging on hammocks. Attend an Italian Festival Italians love their festivals! During summer you're guaranteed to stumble upon a celebration of one of the many Catholic saints. This evening, Fasano held a holy mass and the return of the sacred figures to the church. Locals poured into the streets to walk along the market and hear Italian singer, Noemi, perform. Inside courtyards, friends played chess, and residents people watched off their balconies. As the sun set, the town lit up with festival lights while bars and caffes welcomed guests to watch the football match between Croatia and Italy . You'll love living like locals while in Puglia! La Locanda D'Martume specializes in Apulian dishes and warm hospitality. We were greeted with welcome prosecco and treated to a mid-meal plate of cucumbers to cleanse our palates. I ate one of the most memorable pasta dishes I have ever eaten: homemade ravioli stuffed with violet potatoes and topped with fresh tuna, mushrooms, and toasted almonds. The unique combination of ingredients resulted in unforgettable flavors. Day Four: Since I am the cook in our family often preparing three meals each day, I cherish the moments others prepare a meal for me. While on vacation, I vow never to step foot in the kitchen allowing myself a proper break from the constant meal prep. Annalisa's breakfasts were a welcomed start to our day. I've never eaten as many fruits and vegetables for breakfast as I have in Italy . Meander Through Martina Franca A popular destination in Valle d'Itria , Martina Franca , founded in the 1300s celebrates both the old and new masterfully. Baroque buildings stand proudly near modern architecture, the stunning Basilica di San Martino and expansive Piazza Maria Immacolata lead to white-washed alleys with gorgeous gardens and colorful doors. The 17th-century Fountain of the Four Rivers shares space with sculptures erected in the 21st century. Each summer the town hosts a large opera festival; we were fortunate enough to hear an opera singer warming up in his apartment. Walk to the lookout point to enjoy the picturesque landscape covered with farms, vineyards, and trulli. There is a ton to appreciate in this hilltop not-to-be-missed treasure. Fall in Love with Locorotundo Locorotundo will steal your heart. Its meaning is "the round place", named after its circular design that boasts a piazza in its center. Far from the sea, and perched on a hill, it's known as one of Puglia's "prettiest little towns" for its countless whitewashed streets, Baroque remnants, pops of color on doorways and gardens, beautiful churches, and plenty of restaurants. The most notable quality of this town is that it isn't inundated by tourists who foolishly miss having it on their radar. You can expect to get lost roaming the side streets, marveling at the shops, and catching your mind fantasizing about living like an Italian in this magical town. Have Lunch Along a Farm and Amongst Trulli at Trattoria Terra Madre "Farm to table" takes on a new meaning when you dine along the same farm used by the kitchen to prepare your dishes. There is a heavy emphasis on the vegetables grown resulting in fantastic creations. We savored the eggplant cutlet with tomatoes, rocket, and cacioricotta cheese and the troccoli pasta with zucchini flower pesto, fried zucchini, and stracciatella cheese. However, the fried eggs with smoked burrata cream and grilled garden vegetables are a perfect example of how fresh ingredients can be elevated into a majestic realm. Check Out UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alberobello After spending almost three weeks in Italy, you may begin to think that many of its towns look alike. However, Alberbello is like nowhere you've ever been. The city boasts approximately 1,500 original trulli, dry stone huts with conical roofs dated as early as the mid-fourteenth century with many still inhabited. Many roofs have painted symbols on them which held religious or astrological meanings to the dwellers. Despite the heavy tourist load, this town cannot be missed. Dinner in a Hidden Courtyard, Il Cortiletto Upon arrival, you may think twice about this dinner destination. Its unappealing location and unassuming entrance may cause you to reconsider your reservation. Once you enter the courtyard you'll gasp with joy at the charming beauty before you. You must include this incredible restaurant in your Puglian dining journey. While everything was delectable, we especially raved about the Apulian broad beans puree with cornaletti peppers, the roasted pepper flan with garlic, oil, and hot pepper cream, the paccheri pasta with capers, tomatoes, and bread crumbs, and the eggplant parmesan with pasta. The smoked beef fillet topped with blue cheese and mulberries is worth mentioning too. Day Five: Annalisa started our day with fresh fruit, friselle, eggs, and mini homemade panzerotti stuffed with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese along with a variety of three local types of cucumbers and perfectly frothed cappuccinos. Up Your Laziness at Lido Bambu Can you imagine a more lazy activity than lying limp with your toes in the sand as you bask in the sun? Lido Bambu is the perfect place to lose the day doing nothing but lying, swimming, and eating. The beach club's earthy tones deliver a lovely setting, the service is fantastic from the moment you check-in, and the clear waters entice you to swim way beyond the point of getting pruney. Lunch at the Lido We were constantly blown away by how good the food in Apulia is, even at beach clubs. The lunch at Lido Bambu was excellent. Our highlights were the grilled octopus over hand mashed potatoes and the linguine with zucchini and garden-grown lemon although the grilled eggplant topped with fresh tomatoes and the catch of the day were pretty spectacular too. Cook a Meal in Your Villa The produce in Italy is like nowhere else, especially the tomatoes, which are so succulent and sweet. These little nuggets of juicy joy were a part of each of my three meals for the three weeks we spent in Italy and I never grew sick of them. Lucky for us, our friends from San Diego spoiled us with a delicious meal using my favorite Italian vegetable in all the dishes: Caprese salad, bruschetta topped with garden basil and tomatoes, angel hair pasta with homemade tomato sauce, and a delicious cod cooked in tomato and garlic. We lingered over dinner cherishing friendship, long summers in Italy , and the delicious ingredients that made for a perfect meal with good friends and family. Day Six: Breakfast continues to kick off our days happily. Annalisa prepared our daily cappuccinos along with a spread of fresh veggies and fruit with her signature omelets, always prepared with new ingredients. Today she stuffed our eggs with mushrooms and local cheese. Breakfast will never be the same back in San Diego , or perhaps I can continue this new tradition of a breakfast spread filled with healthy options. Lounge at a Lido The beaches of the Adriatic Seas are a big draw to vacationing in Valle d'Itria and you'll want to spend as much time immersed in the aqua waters as possible. Lido Le Palme has everything you'll need for a day at the beach: a delicious restaurant, a luxury boutique, massage treatments, large sunbeds, beachside service, and a private stretch of sand. Enjoy Lunch in Your Swimsuit It's a wonderful luxury to roll off your daybed, put on your flip-flops, and walk over to a shaded restaurant with a menu that has plenty of options. We opted for a chilled glass of local rose wine, a Greek salad, a Margherita pizza, and a pizza topped with roasted tomatoes and burrata cheese. We left extremely satiated and ready to lay on our loungers with the sea breeze on our skin. Dine Inside "Ancient Walls" Every time we eat in Valle d'Itria I say "This is my favorite meal", yet the food keeps getting better with each restaurant we dine in. Tonight, we were blown away by the seafood dishes at Antiche Mura . You'll be instantly impressed as you walk into the stunning setting inside the ancient walls of Polignano a Mare , elegantly dressed to prepare diners for an unforgettable meal. Our sea bream catch of the day grilled with zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, and Bitetto olives blew us away with its simple ingredients and big flavors. The tagliolini pasta with lobster in a fresh tomato sauce was equally outstanding and the breaded grilled calamari was so good that it was devoured in under one minute. A meal here while visiting northern Apulia cannot be missed. Day Seven: Annalisa felt inspired to make us individual mini omelets with zucchini today. Adorable! The cantaloupe on our table was the highlight of our breakfast, gosh the fruit here is so darn good! Explore the Beautiful Towns of Valle d'Itria Pogliano a Mare is one of the more tourist-heavy towns in Puglia you'll visit. Porto Cavallo is the picturesque cove the town is famous for, packed with beachgoers and likely one of the most photographed places in Apulia . When we visited, Red Bull was setting up for a free-fall diving competition, preparing a diving board perched almost one hundred feet from the sea. Stop along the promenade to take in the stunning design of the town, built high upon the cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Then stroll on Via Roma for a lively stretch of shops and restaurants. Prepare yourself, finding a parking spot is very difficult but worth the effort. Get to Know Monopoli With so many breathtaking Puglian towns, it'll amaze you how each has distinctive qualities. Monopoli is one of the largest cities in Valle d'Itria and with its size comes a lot to appreciate. As you enter Monopoli you'll walk past the expansive coast of clear waters leading you into the heart of the city. Like other towns, Monopoli has its fair share of historic churches and ruins, but what makes this town special is how the "old" plays peekaboo with visitors, suddenly appearing at the end of alleys or on the other side of one of the many arches. We spent the most time in Monopoli as it piqued our interest for longer than the other cities mostly for the surprises that awaited at each turn. Load Up on Fuel at Carlo Quinto The charming patio treats guests to ocean views and despite the summer heat, its well-shaded outdoor dining provides a welcomed reprieve from the sun. Make sure to make a reservation in advance, there was a line of eager diners waiting for a table. The food here is simple, fresh, and well-prepared highlighting the region's seafood. The eggplant parmesan and grilled tuna steak hit the spot and recharged me for my continued explorations. Get Lost in "The White City" Ostuni is one of Puglia's most striking cities, perched high on a hill overlooking green pastures and rolling groves of olive trees. You'll have a blast getting lost in the labyrinth of side streets, each leading to delightful surprises of medieval ruins, beautiful gardens, interesting shops, and a plethora of restaurants. For a full perspective of the town's beauty, start your visit at the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel II Viewpoint then make your way towards its city center to aimlessly explore the town's endless stairs, alleys, and arches. Have a Grand Finale Meal at Osteria Ricanatti A culinary journey awaits you in this husband-wife-operated haven for inventive cuisine. Every single morsel is a pleasure for the palate, the overall experience here is simply magnificent. Beginning with the freshly baked bread loaf delivered steaming to your table, you'll be eating through artistic creations that lean on local produce with an emphasis on vegetables. Day Eight : Annalisa prepared our final breakfast at the villa, complete with her signature omelets and frothy cappuccinos. To wrap up our two-week Apulian adventure we dipped the biscotti that Donatella, our chef in Salento , gifted us when we checked out into our cappuccinos. To top it off, Annalisa packed us individualized lunch bags filled with water, juice, fruits, an egg sandwich, and a slice of lemon cake- a perfect ending to an unforgettable trip! Experience Bari, the Capital of Puglia, Before Leaving We weren't sure what to expect of Bari , wrongly assuming the capital would be run down and dirty. Instead, we were extremely surprised by its striking beauty, expansiveness, cleanliness, and juxtaposition of the most modern architecture we have seen in the region to its Citta Vecchia (old town). The capital buildings along the sea are extravagant and well-kept with pride. The alleys in old Bari are filled with chatter and music pouring out of apartment windows. The streets are so narrow that neighbors can practically help one another hang laundry on their prospective clothing lines. Via Arco Basso is lined with locals set up for the day rolling out homemade pastas, mostly orecchiette, available for purchase. Some streets are flooded with tourists while others are dreamily unchartered. Plan to spend several hours here, there is more to do than expected. Last Lunch at Le Nicchie We made a last-minute decision to dine here when our original lunch plan didn't strike our fancy. They were hesitant to seat us without a reservation but luckily they accommodated us with the condition of sitting indoors. We happily accepted the air-conditioned seating arrangements. The vegetable lasagna is out of this world. I want a second helping, now. Get Your Gelato Game on at Antica Gelateria Gentile This gorgeous gelateria nails the entire gelato experience. Upon walking in a host warmly welcomes you and explains all your options. You then head to the cashier to place your order and receive a receipt to take to the gelato bar where your scoops are cheerfully delivered. I ordered a combo of Fior di Latte and Nocciola making for the sweetest send-off I could hope for! Our three-week road trip in southern Italy has been a dream. We started in Naples , a great base to explore Pompeii and Capri. We continued to the Amalfi Coast to discover Sorrento, Vietri, Amalfi, Minori, and Ravello. We then ventured to Santa Maria di Leuca , a perfect place to anchor ourselves to visit the towns of Salve, Ugento, Tricase, Castro, Otranto, Patu, Gallipoli, Ruffano, and Lecce. Finally, we planted ourselves in Monopoli allowing us to tour all the wonderful towns in this article. Driving through these areas of Italy is not for the faint of heart. The roads in Napoli are overridden by mopeds that weave in and out of cars as if they were on a death wish. Consider yourself lucky if you exit the town without killing anyone. Amalfi's roads are equally dangerous except in this part of Italy, consider yourself lucky if you haven't been killed by the aggressive tour buses that speedily make their way through the narrow, curvy roads seemingly willing to knock out anyone in their path. Although in general, driving in Apulia will get your heart rate back down to a healthy pace, there are areas, like in Gallipoli and Bari, where roads are taken over by pedestrians and some streets are so narrow that you'll question whether your car can fit through. Regardless of the fear factor, you'll need a car to get around so take a deep breath, buckle up, and enjoy the ride! Arrivederci Itay! Grazie mille for the warm hospitality, stunning landscape, incredible beaches, outstanding cuisine, and the best summer memories.
- 7 Nights, Southern Puglia, Italy
We spent seven incredible nights in the boot's heel of the Italian peninsula's Salento region of Santa Maria di Leuca , a perfect base to explore the south of Italy and its dozens of towns worth visiting. Unlike Napoli and the Amalfi Coast , Puglia is not saturated with tourists, yet. This region of Italy has slowly gained popularity over the past few years and will surely become another tourist magnet, so visit soon. The pace here is unbelievably tranquil, with slow starts to the day ending with late dinners and music pumping into the night from the various summer parties. Ancient ruins mingle with modern architecture amidst the Adriatic and Ionian Seas in the backdrop. There is nothing pretentious about Puglia - even its cuisine is modest, simply leaning on fresh seafood and vegetables. Our best meals were seasoned with olive oil, salt, and pepper allowing the flavors of the fish and veggies to carry the flavors. Senegalese migrants are woven into daily society here, adding to a diversity of people not seen in other Italian cities. The landscape is vast and undeveloped, yet plenty of charming towns are sprinkled throughout the region. The locally grown olives produce a richly flavored olive oil that is addictive, the tomatoes are sweet and juicy (I ate a few handfuls every day), and the round cucumbers called "cocomero" (a cross between a cucumber and a melon) are otherworldly. Some other foods that are unique to Puglia are taralli (small crispy dough rings), friselle (bread-like crackers served bruschetta style), focaccia, caciocavallo, mozzarella, burrata, and stracciatella cheeses, orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta), pettole (fried hot dough balls that come in a variety of ingredient combinations), and pasticciotti (sweet cake filled with cream). These foods are divine, mostly because the ingredients used are ultra-fresh. Our favorite meals were in our villa rental prepared by the warm and outgoing Donatella who spoiled us with these local delicacies and helped my Italian language skills resurface. Shops have odd hours, many honoring the ritualistic siesta, streets are desolate in the evenings until the dinner crew begins to arrive promptly at 8:30 pm, mosquitos join in on the feast (so spray often!) and the aqua waters of the Adriatic Sea can easily rival those in the Maldives any day. There is a raw quality here that cannot be replicated and may not be appreciated by everyone. I wholeheartedly welcomed its pureness, which forced me to speak only Italian for the week, mingle with the locals, and experience a magical Italian summer. Below is a flawless Salento itinerary that will ensure you feel like a local for an entire glorious week and that you'll leave feeling more sedate than ever. Where to Stay: This is our second time renting a villa through The Thinking Traveller , which has been voted the "best villa rental service in the world" for eight consecutive years by Conde Nast . The properties they manage are beautifully maintained and fully stocked with anything you'll need for your stay, with premier services like a private chef, grocery shopping, housekeeping, and a dedicated staff to help with all your needs. We rented Leucasia for our stay in Salento and loved every moment in the villa and on its sprawling property. Day One: Settle into your villa, jump into the pool, and have a sunset dinner prepared by a local chef who will make you traditional Puglian cuisines like orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta) and arrosto (roasted beef) that are out of this world. Donatella was our chef for the week, our best meals in Puglia are the ones she prepared for us. Day Two: Beginning each day with a breakfast feast prepared with garden-fresh ingredients is the best way to start your day. Compared to prices in the USA, hiring a local chef to prepare your meals in Puglia is very reasonable. For our first breakfast, we were spoiled with ricotta stuffed squash blossoms drizzled with balsamic vinegar, an assortment of local cheeses, a homemade Nutella crumb cake, pasticciotti (cream-filled pastries), yogurts, eggs, and fruit. Some of our most special memories were made al fresco, enjoying Donatella's homemade meals. Hit a Lido There are many beaches to choose from in Salento . We relished our day at Le Cinque Vele , a stunning property with impeccable service and the clearest, aqua waters. There is beachside service and although it is a haven for locals, our server, Maximo, from Argentina, spoke English and made our day even more enjoyable with his conversations. The day slipped by too quickly here. Enjoy a lunch with traditional Salento cuisine at the beach club Our expectations were surpassed at the beach club's restaurant. Each ingredient used to prepare our meals was top-notch and regional to Salento ; we even hand-selected the sea bass we wanted to be grilled. Delizioso! Dine in a Castle at Chef's Table, Castello di Ugento Il Tempo Nuovo I have mixed reviews on this dining experience. The restaurant is in a seventeenth-century castle, in a romantic setting with a promising menu. Upon arrival, we were given an informative tour of the castle and then seated at the Chef's table which provided us with an up close and intimate view of the chef and his team managing the dishes and giving each plate a high level of attention to detail. The dishes are artfully displayed and are prepared with a unique combination of ingredients. Sadly, we were not impressed by the resulting flavors. The true highlights are the setting and the voyeuristic opportunity to see a fine dining kitchen at work. Castello di Ugento Il Tempo Nuovo is known as one of the best restaurants in the region with wonderful reviews, you may love it... I'm a bit of a food snob. Day Three: Each morning, Donatella impressed us with a new regional breakfast dish. For breakfast on day three, she proudly prepared a "pizza" with eggs and zucchini. Seeing her face light up with pride as we praised her for her tasty homemade meals, started our days off warm and fuzzy. Explore the Coastal Towns on the Way to Otranto A day trip along the coast is a wonderful way to get to know Salento . A drive from Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto takes approximately one hour, longer of course with stops to discover some towns along the way. Tricase Porto & Tricase: The port has a small promenade along the sea with a colorful marina and plenty of swimming holes. It makes for a cute, quick stop. I recommend veering off the coast and driving six minutes inland to Tricase , which boasts a fortress, a baroque church, a piazza with historic landmarks, and plenty of alleys to get lost in. In Tricase , a visit to Martinucci i s a must. The local bakery chain is tucked inside the walls of The Castello Gallone , a former fortress built in the 14th century, and makes a delicious caffe leccese (an espresso shot with ice and a touch of almond syrup). A little further north along the coastal route is the city of Castro , a fairly large town facing the Adriatic Sea towards Corfu and Albania. Castro has a 12th-century cathedral and the remains of a 10th-century Byzantine church. It's fascinating to see the bars, restaurants, and shops integrated into the historic landmarks while integrating the sea. Otranto is another lovely coastal town with popular beaches and plenty of history. It is known to be the easternmost part of Italy and one can see the coast of Albania on a clear day. There is a lively stretch along the promenade dotted with restaurants and cafes and plenty more dining options in the town center enclosed by medieval walls. For history buffs, there is Aragonese Castle built in the 15th century, Santa Maria Annunziata Cathedra l built in the 12th century, and a clock tower built in 1799. The cathedral is famous for having one of the world's largest floor mosaics you can walk on! It's fun to get lost in the narrow streets and alleys especially once you realize you are walking through ancient ruins that hug the crystal blue waters of a popular beach destination. Lunch & learn ... Our villa concierge team recommended we make a lunch reservation at ArborVitae . We learned here that some fish on the menu in Puglia are frozen and not always served fresh from the sea. This disappointing new information helped us when we ordered seafood in future restaurants. We chose only the dishes prepared with freshly caught fish of the day: yellowtail carpaccio a whole grain orecchiette with sea bass, and burrata with grilled vegetables and the beef filet. While the garden setting was quaint, and the service was friendly, we didn't love our meal - everything was just short of the wow factor we experienced in other Italian restaurants. Treat yourself to Gelato Pasticceria Merola This gelato shop is a stunning display of creamy gelato and decadent pastries and makes the creamiest and dreamiest gelato. I selected my favorite flavor, nocciola (hazelnut), and cherished every spoonful. Dine with the locals at Rua de li travaj Our dinner reservation was at 7:30 pm, early by Italian standards. By 8:30 pm the restaurant was packed with Italians. We were the only tourists dining here, a sure sign that the food was promising. Although we were unimpressed by the croquettes that were a bit dry or the traditional "la Scurddijata" dish of peas and chickpeas that was once a meal for peasants, we did enjoy the grilled beef and simple pasta with pomodoro and shaved ricotta. The highlight for us was sipping the nine-euro bottle of local wine surrounded by animated Italians. Day Four: Today's breakfast included rustica (a savory stuffed dough) with bechamel sauce and tomatoes and friselline all 'olio (little bread-like crackers) topped with tomatoes and basil. Donatella outdid herself again. By this third breakfast meal, I started thinking of ways to lure her to San Diego . Charter a boat with Sea Luxury Yachts and spend the day at sea I strongly recommend booking a boat for the day and enjoying Puglia's coast from the sea. There is no better way to spend the day than jumping into the crystal blue water at your will, sipping wine, and eating incredibly fresh local cuisine, then jumping back into the waters to explore caves and continuing this pattern on repeat all day long. This company delivers impeccable service, leaving no details overlooked. Not only were we fed like royalty, but we were also generously given a bottle of what we were told was the healthiest olive oil in the world along with a variety of digestivi (a sweet liquor) in an abundance of flavors including artichoke and limoni (my favorite) to sample. They had a variety of water toys for us (paddle boards, a floating dock, noodles, snorkels, and water scooter jets) and truly did everything to make our day at sea unforgettable. The crew of four catered to our every need including anchoring often to swim in the most incredible, translucent bays. Wrap the day with a fantastic dinner at Trattoria Il Borghetto Il Borghetto has the best pettole (fried dough balls) in Puglia and the most sensational seafood we have eaten since we hit the peninsula. We savored every bite of each dish (the grilled swordfish, the grilled prawns, the grilled vegetables, the seafood linguine pasta, and the fried seafood) and wiped our plates clean. As usual, we were the first to arrive and by 8:30 pm the courtyard was filled with locals. Day Five: For our fourth breakfast meal, Donatella pampered us with a potato and asparagus frittata and a spinach and ricotta pizza with a spread of tomatoes, olives, and fruit. She takes breakfast to a new level. Throughout the meal, I kept plotting ways to convince her to live with us in the States. Stroll the Streets of Santa Maria di Leuca This coastal town sits on the southernmost point of Salento's peninsula where the Adriatic and Ionian seas cross paths. It is known as a summer destination for wealthy Italians who want to enjoy its many beautifully pristine beaches. During our seven-night visit, each summer evening was filled with parties, concerts, and even fireworks. The promenade stretches far with many spots to jump in the pristine water and lidos with beach service. Colorful villas line the streets with ruins interspersed to highlight the old and new. Of all the southern Puglia towns, this one captures vacation mode best. Have a seaside lunch in Lo Scalo The seventeen-minute drive to Lo Scalo from Santa Maria di Leuca along the coastal route is beautiful but arriving at this hidden gem is the real treat. Perched above rocky cliffs with clear aqua swimming holes, this seafood restaurant is visually attractive and makes a stellar lunch. Disco. The burrata salad over tomato carpaccio, cod croquettes with mint and tomato gazpacho, ravioli stuffed with burrata and topped with pureed squash, and the grilled lobster kept us talking about our meal all day. Discover the magic of Gallipoli Peruse the island's perimeter overlooking the Ionian Sea and stroll inside the city walls. This picturesque island is not to be missed when traveling to southern Italy . The way the old city, comprised of churches, a castle, and one of Italy's oldest libraries, is woven into the new city is quite remarkable. The surrounding promenade is lined with bars and restaurants that overlook the sea, while Corso Roma (the main street tucked inside the city), is bustling with activity along its narrow road that connects to little alleys filled with striking architecture, many of which have gorgeous garden settings. Gallipoli is meant to be explored, savored, and cherished; it is truly a unique landscape. Reserve a table at La Vinaigrette for a sunset dinner The setting here is elegant and impressive from the moment you walk in. The indoor dining room is vast and beautifully decorated. The day's fresh catches are displayed as soon as you enter the restaurant, highlighting the fresh menu that awaits. Upstairs is the outdoor terrace overlooking the sea. Featuring seafood, the food is delectable, and is prepared raw, fried, and baked masterfully. Day Six: Caciocavallo is a cheese regional to Puglia , reminiscent of provolone, but better. Donatella made us another delicious spread of local dishes including grilled zucchini with a touch of balsamic, a tomato salad, a cocomero salad, eggs, and friselle topped with tomatoes and basil. Cool off in crystal waters A summer in Europe without a heat wave is rare. However, having one in June is even more uncommon. When temperatures rise to 95 degrees, you go to the beach. Lido Gold is a laid-back beach club without beachside service. The staff doesn't seem interested in ensuring customer satisfaction, barely greeting people as they check in. However, the club's private stretch along the emerald waters of the Adriatic makes up for what the lido lacks in service and amenities. Lunch at Lido Gold Lounge Restaurant is sufficient to curtail your afternoon hunger, nothing more. The food is good enough for lunch, but nothing like the lunch served at Cinque Vele , which was outstanding. Jump in the pool, enjoy your rental Puglia ' s pace moves very slowly, in the best way possible. When not sightseeing, you're left with little more to do than lazily spend the day by the beach or pool. Setting aside a couple of decadent days doing nothing but lounging and swimming is good for the soul. Make sure to carve a few days like this into your itinerary: breakfast, beach, lunch, pool time at the villa, nap, and dinner. Perfetto! Make a toast to the sea & sun After an epically relaxing day, dinner at Relax Leuca seemed appropriate to continue the flow of ultra-tranquility. Although the food here is nothing to write home about, the vibe is perfect for sunset drinks. The view from the terrace is lovely, American music fills the air, and the staff is friendly. Come here for drinks (a glass of wine is only 3.5 euros!) and then head to dinner elsewhere. Day Seven: Donatella outdid herself again! I would have never imgained eating string beans for breakfast, but served cold with ricotta cheese and fresh mint has won me over! She also made us homemade panzerotti (fried dough stuffed with tomatoes and mozeralla). If this isn't enough, she prepared a creamy sweet treat topped with fruit. We officially asked her to move in with us this morning. Go with the flow We initially had reservations at Balelido but after making the thirty-minute drive we arrived to be informed that the beach club did not provide towels. Since we were unprepared, we decided to enjoy an afternoon swim at the villa. The saltwater pool overlooking Santa Maria di Leuca and the expansive sea was exactly what we needed to cool off during a heat wave. Thinking Traveller does not disappoint with their portfolio of villas. Try Pizza in Puglia We've been eating a lot of seafood and my husband was craving pizza for a change. We searched for the best-rated pizza in the area and scored with Leucalta Ristorante e Pizzeria . Their mozzarella and ricotta pizza with chili paste is to die for. This is my new favorite pizza. Lunch here was a real treat! Skip a lido and take a dip anywhere There are countless beaches in Santa Maria di Leuca for a swim in the sea. A dip off the main promenade was a gratifying way to cool off. The water here is so darn gorgeous, get it in as often as you can. Head over to Ruffano Dozens of shops are scattered throughout the alleys with stunning displays of handmade ceramics, which this inland village is famous for. The courtyard houses are whimsically lit with fairytale-like trees, bells, wells, and angel wings. Since it is further from the sea, Ruffano gets even hotter than the coastal towns so be prepared for high summer temperatures and plan your visit for evening hours. The architecture, shops, and cuisine make for a worthwhile visit. Reserve a table at Farmacia dei San i for an experimental meal Dinner along the main piazza, attached to ancient ruins, an inventive menu that gives Puglian cuisine a modern twist, a family-run business... all the elements for a lovely evening are found here. The kitchen creatively combines flavors and serves dishes we have not yet seen offered in Puglia . In addition, they distill their liqueurs on-site and put together a unique cocktail menu using homemade ingredients. Their famous dish, horse meat with mackerel sauce, was a big hit with our son (we weren't adventurous enough to try it). The fried egg over a cream sauce made our palates explode with joy. The risoni cooked perfectly with a fresh basil sauce and shaved ricotta was outstanding. A memorable meal awaits you in Ruffano . Day Eight: After one last breakfast with Donatella, it was sadly time to say arrivederci! She cooked a memorable dinner for us and seven heavenly breakfasts each made with so much love and pride. Every day she surprised us with a new spread of homemade Italian specialties, having her cook for us was the highlight of our trip. Grazie mille Donatella! Book a guide to discover Lecce Consider hiring a guide with toursbylocals to highlight important landmarks and provide a historical context. We booked Fabio who was full of passion and a wealth of information. He walked us through various architectural Baroque masterpieces and ancient Roman ruins we may have missed without an expert along with us. Under his guidance, we viewed and learned about various structures including Basilica di Santa Croce , the Monastery of Olivetani , The Jewish Quarters, a Roman amphitheater, and Duomo Square . He even got us up close to a paper mache artist at work. Lecce is a visually stunning town, a haven for history buffs, and offers tons of shopping and delicious food. Stop for local treats along the way You must try regional foods as you stroll through Lecce's streets. We stopped for mignons (pastries filled with cream) and gelato at Natalie Pasticceria because locals told us they make the best mignons and gelato. I can confirm that both of these treats are worth all the rave. Avio Bar whipped up a caffe leccese made with four ingredients that deliver an outrageously refreshing drink: almond syrup, ice, espresso, and a cream made of almond milk. Finally, we devoured a rustico (phyllo dough filled with tomatoes and mozzarella) straight out of the oven at Caffe Alvino . Cool off over a great lunch Summers in Lecce hit high temperatures. After a few hours of exploring, you'll want air conditioning to cool you down. However, Italians don't appreciate a/c like Americans do and you'll rarely find a place that is cooler inside than it is outside. Il Vico del Gusto not only provides a well-cooled dining room that is elegant and modern, its menu comprised of seafood and vegetables is outstanding. We especially loved the grilled artichokes with almonds, the cheese-stuffed squash blossoms, and their homemade pastas. Eight days is the perfect time to immerse yourself in southern Puglia. This time frame allows for a balanced combination of sightseeing and lazy lido days while submerging in the culture and its people. We left feeling extremely relaxed and well-fed, learning more about the geography and history of the region with each day. Our Italian language skills were happily developed as we were forced to communicate only in Italian and we learned to embrace a slower pace. Make sure to travel to this part of Italy before tourists discover it and ruin its raw beauty. As of now, its untainted, undiscovered simplicity is what makes it just magical.
- 3 Nights in Naples, Italy
Napoli exudes grit and character at every street corner. There are no rules on the road here with Vespas and cars zooming by at their will and pedestrians taking a chance at survival each time they cross the road. Driving in this city was one of the most treacherous experiences, and I wasn't even behind the wheel. The energy is either contagious or repelling, depending on your pace, regardless you have no option but to keep up in this bustling city. Even the "sketchy" parts of Naples, which surround downtown, have charm in their neglected, colorless buildings that come to life with bright linens that hang to dry on their balconies. Like any major Italian city, Naples has great restaurants, friendly locals, streets meant to stroll and shop, and access to other nearby towns. Three nights is ample time to explore the city and its region. Day one: Explore Pompeii and Naples Just thirty minutes away from Napoli is a city that cannot be missed. The best way to learn about Pompeii's past and remarkable achievements is to book a private tour with "withlocals'; we booked Rafaelle, an archeologist with a load of passion for history. You'll be blown away by the massive site of the ruins, the advanced society of the Romans, and the unbelievable remains salvaged from this city that was wiped out almost two thousand years ago. Make sure to walk over to the watchtower after your tour to overlook the incredible city that once was. Head back to Naples for a traditional pizza: If you have patience, you may remain in the one-hour line to snatch a pie at any of the locations of the famous L'antica Pizzeria da Michele. I don't do lines. Instead, we got lost in some of the narrow, store-lined alleys, as we searched for the perfect pie while ingesting the sights and sounds of Italy's most iconic cities. We stumbled upon SpaccaNapoli Trattoria Pizzeria and enjoyed a traditional Neapolitan Pizza lunch. In true Naples fashion, they bake a delicious pizza using simple ingredients to maximize flavor. pros: very reasonable prices, a local favorite, fresh ingredients cons: none must order: a margherita pizza and a four cheese pizza Walk off those lunch calories and explore the Historic Centre of Naples (Centro Storico). Our walking itinerary looked like this: Piazza del Gesu Nuovo, Spanish Quarters, Galleria Umberto, Teatro di San Carlo, Plebiscito, Basilica San Francesco Da Paola, Royal Palace, and Castle Nuovo). This route gave us a great feel for Naples as we wove in and out of its streets soaking in the masterful architecture, history, and lively streets. Venture out into the burbs. Many tourists don't know about Posipillo, an affluent hillside suburb just twenty minutes outside Naples. You'll love the calm, beautiful feel of this well-kept neighborhood that runs along a stunning promenade with breathtaking panoramic views. There are plenty of bars and restaurants in this part of town yet the mood is serene and peaceful. We snatched a reservation at Rosiello, which served us an unforgettable meal. From the lush, garden setting that overlooks the sea, to the friendly staff, and the fantastic food, this is a not-to-miss dining experience. Every bite was perfectly prepared. We ordered the oysters, grilled octopus in tomato sauce, mozzarella salad with cherry tomatoes, garden vegetable ravioli, spaghetti with basil and cherry tomatoes, and the tomahawk steak. Each bite was true perfection. pros: lovely garden setting overlooking the sea, attentive staff, outstanding dishes cons: none must order: tomahawk steak, spaghetti with basil and cherry tomatoes, and the grilled octopus Day Two: Head over to Sorrento and explore Capri by boat Sorrento is a large, bustling coastal town where Vespas are even more ubiquitous than they are in Napoli. The windy roads that climb and descend are a joy on their own until you take a moment to admire the epic views below you, you'll instantly fall in love with this picturesque town. Keep in mind, that the traffic can be horrendous. It took us forty-five minutes to get through the last six miles of our route but you won't mind, sitting still in your car will allow you to watch the locals pass by and give you a glimpse into the town's unpretentious, laid-back feel. Rent a boat and spend a day in Capri. We rented a boat via Restart Italy, their service is exceptional and they offer a range of fleets that suit every size and budget. Hiring a boat to take you around the island is the only way to truly experience the true beauty of Capri as you get up close to the famous "white cave", "green cave", "blue cave" (ie the blue grotto, which was closed on the day we visited due to strong waves) and Faraglioni di Capri. Boating along the coast of Capri will take your breath away and provide a perspective of the island that cannot be missed. Stroll the narrow streets of Capri's Piazza. Once you've explored the coast, dock your boat and embark on this magical island. The main plaza is up the hill which you can access by the funicular, a taxi, or a steep walk up hundreds of stairs. We opted for the stairs, which we momentarily regretted yet in retrospect would do so again as this route took us through beautiful gardens, back streets, and changes in the views as we climbed in altitude. Capri has many gorgeous shops, not the touristy kind but the kinds that inspire you to want to boost your wardrobe. We were stunned by how many people were visiting this small side of the island, the crowds were almost unbearable in early June, before peak season. Despite the swarms of people, you'll fall in love with the majestic views, the narrow store-lined alleys, the colorful flowers, the charming balconies, and the local lemon sorbet which is divine on a hot day. Linger over lunch. It's not easy finding just the right lunch spot in a tourist-heavy town. After much research, we settled on La Capannina. The multilevel trattoria creates a fun, tropical mood but more importantly, delivers an incredible variety of traditional, local fare using the freshest ingredients. We ordered a caprese salad, an octopus carpaccio, the zucchine fritte, spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, sea bass with mushrooms and potatoes, grilled chicken, and mozzarella ravioli. Every bite was outstanding. Gosh, the food in Italy is so darn good. pros: friendly staff, charming setting, delicious food cons: none must order: caprese salad, octopus carpaccio, and sea bass with mushrooms and potatoes After a full day, slow down for aperitivo with a view. Sky Lounge at the Grand Vesuvio Hotel delivers excellent snacks and cocktails, along with mesmerizing views. It's the perfect place to relax after a fun-filled day. Indulge for dinner at Caruso Rooftop Lounge. Also located at the Grand Vesuvio Hotel, this highly regarded restaurant emanates elegance and sophistication. The atmosphere is ultra romantic especially during dusk as the sun paints the sky pink and the candles twinkle on the refined table setting. While Caruso Rooftop Lounge wins for atmosphere, its kitchen falls short when preparing creative or tasty dishes. The superb setting sadly doesn't line up with the cooked courses. I recommend you book a table to enjoy a glass of regional wine to toast the sun as she retreats to bed and then head elsewhere for your main meal. pros: magnificent views, romantic setting cons: staff not polished enough, food subpar, falls short of potential caliber must order: the spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and zucchini Where to Lodge: The Grand Vesuvio Hotel With thousands of hotel options, choosing the perfect place to stay can become an overwhelming task. You'll love The Grand Vesuvio for its old-world elegance, refined service, amenities, and location. A bountiful breakfast buffet, sophistically displayed, is included in the rate and served in a grand dining hall. In addition, the hotel boasts one of Naple's top restaurants, Caruso Rooftop Lounge, and a well-known rooftop bar. The rooms are royally appointed in tapestry, silk lampshades, and balconies that overlook the Gulf of Naples and a historic castle. Despite being in the city's center, the hotel's location is quiet, making it a perfect retreat from an overly active city. pros: for families with multiple children, you can book a hotel room with three single beds for the younger ones to connect to yours, excellent location, beautiful hotel con: tiny elevators. i walked up and down six flights during our entire stay to avoid the claustrophobic means of transport Napoli, you've been a wonderful first stop paving the way for our Italian adventures. With your wild streets and chaotic sidewalks, you're not for the faint of heart. Yet your energy, history, sites, smells, and sounds are uplifting and invigorating. Three nights was just the right amount of time to get to know you. Arrivederci!
- May Food & Fun
In La Jolla, locals refer to this month as "May Gray" because of the looming marine layer that hides the sun. However, when you focus on the vibrant food scene in San Diego, it's hard to feel gloomy! This month I enjoyed dining in restaurants I haven't yet visited while exploring new fun activities. With so many incredible food options and endless exciting activities in my backyard, it's hard to focus on gray skies! Below are the food & fun findings I delved into with vigor and joy, now you too can enjoy these vetted recommendations. The Whaling Bar (La Jolla) In 1949 The Whaling Bar emerged as an iconic bar in the Valencia Hotel and remained a popular meeting spot for celebrities and ritzy locals until it shut down for the last decade. It reopened just a couple of months ago and has nailed creating a vibe of sophistication and elegance, drawing an attractive, well-dressed crowd. The menu is as enticing as the dimly lit, swanky interior with a variety of alluring options, all meant to be shared. I love this spot so much that I have eaten here four times since they recently opened. It's my new favorite neighborhood destination. pros: creative cocktails, unique menu with outstanding dishes, great service, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to dress your best cons: none must order: truffled old fashioned with mezcal, truffle, porcini mushrooms, xocolate bitters; the caviar buckwheat pancakes; the pickled fingerling potatoes; the wild mushroom mille feuille; and definitely do not miss out on "the hamburger" dessert Cody's (La Jolla) I've passed by Cody's hundreds of times since moving to La Jolla almost three years ago and was always too uninterested to make the schlep upstairs. Recently, I dined here for a friend's birthday and returned a week later for another great breakfast. The restaurant delivers a laid-back, casual space to enjoy great breakfasts with lively music and ocean views. pros: the kitchen is very flexible with accommodating requests, an upbeat environment, great views, a spacious outdoor patio, and great staff- a server taught us that watercress is one of the healthiest foods on the planet cons: none must order: anything you're in the mood for, they'll literally customize a dish for you Pacifica (Del Mar) This eatery especially stands out because of its open patio overlooking the sea. The restaurant is quite large with an indoor space that boasts a retro feel in contrast to the patio's more elegant setting. It's a great brunch spot to meet with friends to share some of their interesting breakfast dishes over great conversation. pros: pretty patio with an ocean breeze, friendly service, fun brunch cocktails, large menu cons: it was pretty quiet on a saturday morning must order: the sugar-spiced salmon hash with two poached eggs, yukon potatoes, asparagus, braised fennel, smoked trout roe, and dill hollandaise Provisional Kitchen (Downtown) We loved our dinner at this stylish downtown restaurant inside the chic Pendry Hotel. The menu highlights American cuisine using seasonal ingredients and offers great weeknight specials like "Wine Down Wednesdays" - live music, complimentary cheese plate, and half-off wine bottles. pros: enjoy a great meal in a beautiful setting, great specials on sundays, wednesdays and thursdays cons: parking can be a challenge must order: wagyu skirt steak with smoked tomato puree, smashed potato, pickled onion Kayaking on the Pacific Ocean Kayaking in La Jolla Shores with Everyday California is a fun adventure that may seem touristy but must be experienced by locals at least once. The check-in process is efficient and led by charming staff members who are friendly and funny. Our tour guide, Girardo, kept us all laughing throughout the tour as well. We spent ninety minutes out on the water spotting a couple of seals as we made our way along the breathtaking coast. Depending on Mother Nature on some days kayakers can enter the caves. We were unable to although we did hit a couple of thrills when large swells brought us an adrenaline rush. On our return to shore, we were warned about flipping over as we kayak-surfed back to land. Despite the tips on how to avoid this, many did lose control, including myself leaving me drenched in water during my drive home. Tip: bring a towel and a change of layer at the very least. Starting my Sunday morning with this excursion is one of my most memorable and enjoyable La Jolla memories. The serenity from being out in the open ocean is just unbeatable. Crossing the Border and Exploring Mexico I can't believe it has taken me this long to drive into Mexico. It's been almost three years of living just forty-five minutes from the border and we haven't taken advantage of our proximity to the country until recently. Rather than exploring places like Valle de Guadalupe, just two hours away, we've instead hopped on planes twice over these three years to explore other regions in Mexico. Read about our two night getaway to Valle de Guadalupe during Memorial Day Weekend HERE. San Diego continues to deliver endless options for food and fun. I have been writing about the food scene here for one year and five months now, never running out of fantastic restaurants to highlight or adventures to embark on. It just takes the willingness to get out and explore "America's Finest City" to see firsthand that it offers a lot more than mild year-round weather.
- 2 Nights Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico
We've visited various areas of Mexico over the years, and probably have traveled to this favorite country of ours at least one dozen times. This is the first time that we took advantage of our proximity to Baja, Mexico, and decided to embark on an adventure to Valle de Guadalupe, just over a two-hour drive from San Diego. The landscape in Valle de Guadalupe is like none we have seen in the many Mexican coastal towns we have vacationed in. Instead, Valle is a stunning contrast to the blue waters we are used to, boasting endless views of bright green vineyards that are surrounded by rolling hills. Surprisingly, some delicious wines are produced in this region, and along with fantastic wineries, comes a thriving food scene with award-winning, and Michel-starred, restaurants. There are tons of activities to enjoy while visiting, you'll quickly find yourself planning your next visit. I've already planned our next itinerary! Day One: We hired an Uber to drive us 45 minutes to the Mexican border, where we very quickly crossed the pedestrian crossing into Mexico. We were surprised by how easy the process was- less than fifteen minutes once you leave San Diego's side of the border and enter Mexico! We hired a driver in advance to meet us once we crossed over who stayed with us throughout the day while we enjoyed making discoveries. When visiting the area, consider reserving an excursion with Off Roads Tours Valle Guadalupe who delivered a thrilling off-road ATV ride on rugged terrain along the vineyards. Sergio, our guide, is full of contagious energy and often pulls over to motivate his riders to continue on the challenging course. After a heart-beat-inducing adventure, you'll be ready to sit down in a serene environment and enjoy a big lunch. Bar Bura Cuatro Cuatros is guaranteed to provide you with an unforgettable, immersive dining experience from start to finish. Cuatro Cuatros is a massive project incorporating private residences, restaurants, vineyards, horseback riding, zip lining, spa services, etc. Bar Bura, a restaurant on the project, is one of its star concepts and as a result, making a reservation here is done in a non-conventional manner. Minimum spend commitments are based on the seating location - the closer you sit to the breathtaking views, the more you will be asked to spend towards dining. In addition, you must fully prepay your minimum spend upon making the reservation. Although the booking process may seem daunting, you won't regret making a reservation- the entire meal and the setting are out of this world (including the bathrooms!). Tip: you can only access the restaurant via the property's shuttle. Give yourself an extra twenty minutes to find the shuttle and embark on the steep climb to the restaurant's location perched on a cliff. pros: stunning vistas of the Pacific Ocean, live DJ, unique bathrooms, great menu cons: at this altitude, it can get chilly, bring a warm layer with you must order: the prime rib sandwich and the rib eye are fantastic You'll likely need a nap after a morning filled with adventures and great meals. We chose to stay at Banyan Tree, a new luxury hotel in the Valle that just opened on May 1st. The property is exquisitely designed on a sprawling mountain that overlooks vineyards and lush, green hillsides. Most rooms are free-standing casitas with spacious living quarters and a small plunge pool. Privacy is highly honored here and this is a great lodging choice to retreat to after a full day. However, don't book your room just yet, they still have many kinks to work out. Give them about a year to get the rhythm of operating such a large resort smoothly. pros: gorgeous design that incorporates the surrounding nature, nicely appointed rooms, friendly staff, rooms provide a sense of utmost privacy cons: the shared pool on the resort is tiny. it's more like a large plunge pool than a pool. many guests at the hotels complained about this design overlook. if you like lounging by the pool when on vacation, this property isn't for you Hopefully, you'll sneak in a nap and will be ready to regroup for the evening. We enjoyed drinks at the hotel's bar and grabbed seats on the swinging chairs that looked directly into the vast vineyards below. The views at Banyan Tree are honestly spectacular! For dinner, reserve any of the area's most popular restaurants in advance. They fill up fast! We were super excited to finally experience dinner at Fauna after all the raving reviews it received from our foodie friends and its reputation as a top fifty restaurant in Latin America and more recently "best restaurant in Mexico". You'll be immediately struck by the communal tables, bringing diners together in a lively room filled with excited chatter. The place was packed and the energy was contagious. We tried oysters, tuna fin sopes, smoked broccoli, grilled lettuce, octopus with grilled tomato, and charred cabbage. Everything was good, and some dishes were really good, but none were worth the hype. I am convinced that those who rave about Fauna, have not yet eaten at Animalon. pros: bustling space, great service, interesting menu cons: does not meet my standards of what a "top restaurant" should deliver must order: the oysters and the tuna fin sopes Day Two: On your second day, consider staying put at your resort and taking advantage of any amenities offered. We began with breakfast at Aldea, Banyan Tree's all-day dining restaurant. The menu combines traditional Mexican dishes and standard American options to start your day off with. I loved the way my chilaquiles were prepared- not too overloaded with tortilla chips and prepared with homemade sauces using fresh ingredients. Next, we walked off the calories we consumed for breakfast along the hotel's walking trails, which led us to breathtaking lookout points and a meditation garden comprised of a walking labyrinth. Starting the day soaking in the vistas and blue skies was a perfect way to set a tone of gratitude. Finally, we grabbed a spot by the hotel's pool and had it to ourselves until a crew from Los Angeles that we met earlier that morning came to join us. When it was just us for the first few hours, it was pure bliss. When others joined, it was too close for comfort so after eating some delicious poolside tacos we headed to our room to enjoy the outdoor space it offered in privacy. Hopefully, the pool at your resort is larger so you can plant yourself there the entire day in true vacation format. There is no better way to end your day than with dinner at Animalón. A meal under the massive oak tree was outstanding - one of the most memorable meals you will have. This restaurant is Michelin-star worthy, touching on every one of your five senses brilliantly, and delivering each course in a masterfully artistic manner. We chose the six-course tasting menu, which in actuality comprised twelve courses counting the many thoughtful add-ons from the kitchen. pros: stunning setting, immaculate attention to detail from the staff, an unforgettable experience that engages all the senses cons: none must order: ordering a tasting menu is required Day Three: Make sure to talk to the locals and get some insights from them. We asked our driver where locals like to eat breakfast while in Valle and he suggested Cuarzo. They serve a great Mexican breakfast in a modern setting with fast service. Those who know me well can easily guess what I ordered for breakfast... chilaquiles! The side of beans that accompanied my dish were delicious and the red sauce was just the freshest. My husband loved their unique twist on enchiladas for breakfast. pros: fresh food in a bright, open setting cons: none must order: chilaquiles and enchiladas Next head over to Puerto Nuevo, "the lobster capital of the world". This colorful town is filled with restaurants showcasing lobster on the menu, art galleries, and local shops with crafts and trinkets. You may even catch some live music as you stroll the streets. We were too full from breakfast but I've heard that Sandra's is the place to eat when visiting. Tips: If you're from Southern California you may wonder whether you should drive across the border or hire a driver to get you around. For our first time getting into Baja, we opted to Uber to the border and cross the pedestrian crossing into Mexico where we had a driver waiting for us. Our driver stayed with us all day, drove us everywhere on our itinerary, and waited for us while safeguarding our luggage as we explored. During the three days that we were there, we played with the Uber app to see how readily available their drivers are in Valle, and we ruled out relying on Uber in the future as drivers were not always available, especially on a busy weekend. On our second day when we didn't need a driver with us the entire day, we hired transport through our hotel to take us to dinner, for a whopping $175, roundtrip. Hiring drivers to transport us over the three days cost us $800.00. Now that we have familiarized ourselves with the roads into Valle and feel very comfortable with the route, we will drive ourselves next time to avoid these unnecessary high costs. Just be aware, that if you do not have Global Entry and your car isn't registered with Sentri, you will be forced to wait long lines to cross over. So, my recommendation is that if you have the latter two documents, take the easy drive yourself. There is no town square or main street in Valle de Guadalupe. Once you are there, there is no convenience store to run to for snacks or water. Stock up beforehand in Rosarito or Ensenada. Valle de Guadalupe is made of very dusty dirt roads. Wear closed-toed shoes, but not your favorite ones as they will get dirty. Finally, if you plan on embarking on an ATV excursion, bring a bandana; this was not suggested by our tour, but it should have been. Our faces were covered in dirt after our excursion and we had dirt in our mouths that took hours to get rid of. It was totally worth it though! Valle gets very chilly in the evenings so bring layers with you. My final tip is: plan a visit Valle de Guadalupe ASAP for a wonderful, relaxing experience filled with adventure, great food, gorgeous scenery, an endless array of wineries, friendly locals, and an overall great getaway.
- April Food & Fun
My endless pursuit of great food in San Diego comes with several rewards: discovering new restaurants that I love, gathering with friends over delicious food that we experience together for the first time, sharing my favorite findings with my awesome readers, and giving my high heels purpose beyond collecting dust in my closet. I'm not sure when my love affair with food began but if I had to guess it would be in my grandmother's kitchen. Grandma always filled her pots with delicious homemade concoctions and her home always smelled safe and inviting. Since my early twenties, I began dabbling with cooking, often trying (successfully) to recreate her recipes. Her cooking sparked my foodie interest leading me to love creating meals in my kitchen and enjoying the creativity that others pump out of their kitchens even more. So here I am, a couple of decades later, fully immersed in biting into as many restaurants as I can looking for those moments where the combinations of ingredients perfectly line up and instantly etch memories in my mind. This month, I stumbled upon some wonderful findings that I am thrilled to share with you so you can start making some reservations and memories too! Et Voila (North Park) This French bistro is a newcomer to my list of best restaurants in San Diego. Here you'll find traditional French cuisine brilliantly prepared in a cozy, casual ambiance with extremely reasonable prices for the quality and mastery of the perfectly prepared dishes. pros: every dish ordered was outstanding, wonderful service, great cocktails cons: none must order: ravioli aux champignons, croustillant chaud de reblochun (warm and crispy phyllo dough, reblochon cheese, honey reduction), black pearl kaluga cavair with blinis and all the goodies, bouef bourguignon traditionnel , souffle, and creme brulee Juniper & Ivy (Little Italy) This month I celebrated my third visit to this San Diego institution carefully selecting it as the place where we'd impress our recent out-of-town guests. Because the chef relies on locally sourced ingredients, the menu constantly changes to highlight the freshest ingredients available on a given day. The formerly abandoned warehouse has been transformed into a chic, modern dining space with an open kitchen and eye-catching banquette seating to tie the room. pros: lively ambiance with a creative menu that changes often cons: none must order: there is an outstanding off-the-menu "inn-n-haute burger" that only in-the-know patrons know about - the burger must be pre-ordered a day in advance by calling the restaurant. Otherwise, the menu changes regularly The Mission (North Park) I can't remember the last time I ordered a milkshake, especially one that cost only $8. I love this unassuming diner in North Park. Customers vary from families with young children to hung-over twenty-year-olds who haven't gone to bed yet, you'll see ladies wearing Prada and goth teens all in one space. pros: great people watching, very reasonable prices, delicious breakfast dishes cons: they don't take reservations must order: mocha chip milkshake and the rancheros verdes (fresh flour tortillas with eggs over medium, tomatoes, scallions, black beans, cheese, and roasted chile verde sauce) Aldea (La Jolla) This La Jolla newbie has some kinks to work out but it has lots of potential. The interior instantly caught my attention- a swanky coastal vibe in an ultra-modern setting. The menu is also enticing, but the kitchen hasn't mastered the flavors in the colorful dishes that come beautifully presented. For now, give them some time to work things out but in the meantime grab a seat at the bar and order a well-crafted cocktail. pros: beautiful aesthetics, delicious cocktails, spot-on service cons: food is not at the level that is expected must order: sunflower cocktail (evoo, washed mezcal, flower syrup, lime, xtabentun rinse) King of Thai Cuisine (La Jolla) A charming, authentic Thai restaurant is a new addition to the row of restaurants on Girard Avenue. Dinner here appeased my craving for good Thai cuisine and I'm thrilled to have a new go-to place when I get my next itch for Thai food. pros: inexpensive, quaint interior with an unpretentious patio, large menu cons: the cream cheese wontons are not filled enough and are overly fried must order: the vegetable spring rolls, yellow curry, and vegetable fried rice along with a side of the three homemade hot sauces that range in heat Valentina (Encinitas) A new brunch favorite of mine, Valentina wowed me with each bite. The owners' trips to Spain and the Mediterranean inspire most of the dishes in this cozy neighborhood bistro. Washing down each bite with a homemade sangria is a perfect combination! pros: outstanding, unique brunch menu cons: the drink menu is limited to wine, and they add a 5% surcharge to the bill must order: the chimichurri steak sandwich (baguette, garlic aioli, flat iron steak, chimichurri, sliced red onions) and the savory dutch baby pancake with smoked steelhead, cherry tomatoes, creme fraiche, and freaky leaks Coachella (Indigo, CA) As a reminder, when we rang in the new year, I set a challenge to immerse in a unique experience in, or near, San Diego each month. My fun activity for April was bucket-list-worthy fun. Coachella is only a two-and-a-half-hour drive from San Diego and is a festival that every San Diegan must enjoy at least once. Click HERE for a full description of this month's extra fun adventures in the Coachella Valley. pros: set your soul free and dance the days away with the tunes of incredible artists while expressing yourself however you wish cons: lots of walking and high temperatures in the afternoon tips: splurge on VIP parking and ticket entrance, take the time to see the art installations at various times of the day as the lighting changes them drastically, make a list of "must-see" artists from the line-up, and then let the beats in the desert dictate the rest of your day
- How to Coachella in Your 40's
Let's face it, once we hit our forties we've grown out of our willingness to be uncomfortable. We're more fixed in our ways and often have higher standards than we did in our twenties. Coachella, an annual music festival held in the middle of the Coachella Valley is a bucket-list-worthy experience, yet with scorching afternoon temperatures and evenings that drastically cool down, huge crowds, and an inhumane amount of walking required to get around, the desert music mecca tends to attract younger crowds who don't kvetch when removed from their comfort zones. Despite these obstacles, yes, even those in their forties still may want to dance the day away in outfits that allow them to artistically express themselves without facing the judgment of others. Perhaps Burning Man is too much of an undertaking - the elements are harsher, survival skills are crucial, and discomfort is taken to the next level. Coachella, on the other hand, is more manageable, requires less planning, and is exponentially more cost-effective, while delivering an almost equal amount of desert wonder on a much, much smaller scale. Below are my tips on how to enjoy this world-famous festival with ease and pure bliss. Pack well. Dress light during the day and pack a layer for the evening when the temperatures drop. Wear your most comfortable shoes. Sunscreen and lip balm are essential packing items. Take empty plastic water bottles (metal ones are not permitted) - there are filtered water stations throughout the venue, and staying hydrated is mandatory. Bring your ID. Once you pass security, there is an "ID Check" station where those who plan to drink alcohol attain a required wristband. You'll want your phone for photos and to access the Coachella app which is full of useful information. Side note: I lost my phone on the first day and it was miraculously delivered to lost and found and returned to me in less than twenty-four hours. Most people are good, I've regained my faith in humanity. Leave your cash at home, this is a cashless world. Although a hat makes sense to ward off the sun and keep those wrinkles at bay, mine became a nuisance when the evening wind kicked in. I recommend not wearing one and lathering up with a great facial sunscreen instead. This is all you really need. Everything else might become a burden. Book a luxury hotel as a home base. You'll love walking into a gorgeous property after spending a sweaty day in the sun. Showering with high-end products and slipping on a lush robe is the ultimate way to decompress after a full day of stimulation. We chose The Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage as our unwinding destination. The staff is well-equipped for the Coachella crowd welcoming guests with essential kits filled with sunglasses, a bandana, lip balm, sunscreen, face wipes, and candy. They even have food stations set up in the lobby until 2:00 am to greet hungry festival goers as soon as they hand their cars to valet. On night one I downed a portabello burger at 12:30 am, on night two I shoved mahi mahi tacos down my mouth faster than I could say “fish tacos” - you'll burn more calories than you can count dancing and walking and you'll find yourself hungrier than a teenage boy. Waking up to a delicious breakfast and recovering at the quiet adult pool with a skinny margarita will help rejuvenate you for the fun ahead. Now that I’m in my forties the last thing I want to do is recover from partying at a pool party. Seriously, this is money well spent. Splurge on a luxe hotel, because you're in your forties and sleeping in a parking lot tent is probably as unappealing to you as eating frozen chicken nuggets for dinner. Spend more on a VIP pass and preferred parking pass. I know, spend, spend, spend. Yes, these things add up but unless you're the kind of forty-year-old who doesn't mind relieving yourself in nasty porta potties that will make your sunglasses fog in under one second while you struggle to hold your breath, I say spend the extra money so that you can pee in a civilized manner- in an airconditioned facility with running water to wash your hands. You'll hopefully be staying very hydrated in the heat and will be making an unusual amount of bathroom runs; At this stage in life, I'll pay any amount of money for a clean bathroom. In addition, the VIP pass gives you access to my favorite part of Coachella: The Rose Garden. This small haven is the perfect escape from the heat and crowds, when you need a moment to regroup amongst rose gardens, hit bars with no lines, and grab a bite to eat in a calm environment. Oh- and this is where you'll find the best bathrooms too. Regular passes sell between $499-$599 and VIP passes go for $1069-$1269. Clean bathrooms and a line-free entrance into the festival make this a no-brainer if you can afford the price tag. Keep note of where you parked. Yes, the festival is extremely well organized, except when it comes to parking. There are general parking zones but they are so vast that simply knowing which zone you’re in will never lead you to your car. During our first visit to Coachella in 2022 it took us over an hour to find our car. This time, we took meticulous notes counting cones and lanes to get us back to our vehicle. You won't see the twenty-year-olds using this method. Instead, they pin their car location on Google Maps. I silently smirk at their tech-savvy ways, because with age comes wisdom, and we learned the hard way that this is an insufficient method. Go old school and take notes or get a Tesla. Wear comfortable shoes. My only major complaint about Coachella is how spread out the stages are from one another and how much walking is required to get around. Our friend logged twenty-four miles over nine hours. No wonder my feet hurt so much at the end of the day! Considering that most of the ground is filled with neatly trimmed grass, I was surprised not to find one single barefooted soul. The festival should add one more VIP area to the property to save VIP party-goers the time it takes to schlep to the Rose Garden every time they choose to pee with dignity (ok, I sound like a spoiled brat, but as you get older your bladder isn’t as reliable as it used to be). Regardless, wear your most comfortable shoes, take seated breaks often to hydrate, and bring bandaids for those inevitable blisters. Eat more than you think you can digest. I made the mistake on day one of not refueling with food because I wanted to dance to the tune of as many artists as possible and didn’t want to miss any bands on my list performing. FOMO is never a good idea. When we got to the hotel after a long day burning thousands of calories, I crashed. I was a super hangry woman. I learned from my mistake and the next day ate the largest breakfast burrito created, then had a full lunch that included a grilled cheese sandwich, Greek salad, and french fries, followed by a gigantic order of loaded tater tots with lots of in-between snacks. Forget about healthy eating in Coachella. Your body needs calories - as many of them as possible. So EAT more than you think you can consume. You’ll fit back into your Lulus in no time. Stop to admire the art throughout the day. Although Coachella is mostly known for its music, it is technically an arts festival too. While two iconic structures are staples of the landscape (the Ferris wheel and the cylindrical tower (in the bottom right photo), new spectacular buildings emerge each year. Make sure to pay attention to how they change throughout the day from mid-day to sunset to nightfall. They truly are breathtaking every step of the way. Just know that you're never too old. While the majority of attendees are in their twenties, you'll find people of all ages getting into Coachella mode. Watching Gwen Stefani performing with No Doubt was on my list of "must-sees". We were shocked that practically everyone at the festival joined us to cheer her on. I thought I'd be joining the "older crowd" for this performance but everyone, everyone was there too. Get dressed up, express yourself, and let loose. Coachella is a place where nothing matters but creativity, music, and fun. I had a blast dressing my body with tattoos and glitter. Dancing freely to a variety of performers from Sublime to Sofi Tukker, John Batiste to Charlotte de Witte, and Kaskade to Lil Uzi Vert in the backdrop of the desert with the wind in my hair, as the sun painted the sky illuminating the stunning surrounding, and a handful of good friends to enjoy the experience with made me like I was twenty-two and forty-two all over again. When you're dancing all day under the desert sky time is a useless construct. Dance your heart out, who cares how old you are? You're alive. This realization is the most rewarding gift Coachella can give anyone, at any age, willing to let go and express themselve. Mark your calendars for next year and join us!
- 5 Nights in Punta de Mita, Mexico
I love everything about Mexico - the culture, the food, the people. We've visited Tulum, Cancun, Mayakoba, Holobox, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Cozumel, and Puerto Aventuras over the years. We can't get enough of the warm hospitality, alluring beaches, and wonderful cuisine the country offers. One of the perks of living in San Diego is its proximity to the many coastal towns of Mexico. On this memorable trip, we took a two-and-a-half-hour flight from San Diego on Alaska Airlines to Puerto Vallarta. We then picked up our car rental from Enterprise and then made the easy forty-five-minute drive south to Punta de Mita just in time to watch the sun paint the sky as she retreated for the day. Below is what I consider a perfect five-night itinerary in Punta de Mita, verified by yours truly. We had a flawless balance of relaxation and exploration and ate some of the most delectable meals possible. Feel free to steal my travel plan to begin creating your magical memories. Also, before I get started here are some important tips to guide you when traveling to Punta de Mita: If you plan on leaving your resort, which you absolutely should, rent a car. Driving here is safe and having a car makes everything easier. All bills have a 10% service charge included, and no additional tipping is necessary. Many of the restaurants below are located in high-security properties so carry ID at all times. Make dinner and excursion reservations in advance, things do book up here. The sunsets in Punta de Minta are breathtaking, make sure to catch them daily. DAY ONE: The check-in process at the Conrad Hotel, the beach town's newest five-star resort, was quick and extremely welcoming. This luxury hotel boasts every amenity you can ever dream of while on vacation: tennis courts, pickle ball courts, a gym, a spa, four restaurants, an adult-only pool and also several family pools (one with a water slide), daily yoga on the sand, beachside service... this place is the perfect escape. The rooms are spacious and most notably have expansive balconies with eye-catching views. Additional touches like artisanal welcome chocolate, aromatherapy linen sprays, unlimited on-demand bottled water, and handmade crafts laid thoughtfully at turn-down service, all make the room a perfect retreat at the end of an already glorious day. Once settled in, we headed to dinner at Codex, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, on a complimentary chauffeured golf club. This restaurant is extremely well-rated and is recognized as one of Mexico's top two hundred-fifty best restaurants. Upon entering, we were greeted by a staff member who asked our family to unite holding hands as he blessed us via what seemed like an indigenous tradition. I found this to be a very thoughtful way to welcome guests. Although we were disappointed by the chef's gastronomic attempts, we were in awe of the stunning setup. There are tables on the sand, some even tucked into trees, all romantically lit by tiki torches. The kitchen hits it on the nail aesthetic-wise- the food presentation is thoughtfully prepared to deliver a minimalistic beauty that is impossible to overlook. However, overall we ate our only disappointing meal while in Mexico at Codex. Perhaps the kitchen was having an "off day". pros: striking setting, polished service, well-made cocktails cons: portions are small and extremely overpriced for what is just decent food must order: we tasted six items on the menu and the only one I could recommend is the soft-shelled crab Watching the sunsets while vacationing in Punta de Mita should be a ritual in your vacation planning, they will take your breath away. DAY TWO: Our first full day at the resort was dedicated to planting ourselves on the property and relaxing as much as possible. I suggest you do the same once you get here. Breakfast at Arbol is the perfect way to start the day. The indoor buffet has an endless spread of cheeses, yogurts, breads, pastries, waffle stations, and an array of hot foods and even an additional outdoor buffet focused on Mexican fare with a chilaquiles station, a manned quesadilla station, an eggs-your-way station, fruits galore, and local sweets. We all left satiated. After a full meal, we plopped at the adult pool and stayed there all day. There wasn't any reason to leave when we were spoiled with the sound of ambient music playing, the crashing of nearby waves, a hot tub, a swim-up bar, and even a ceviche cart that pulled up to our seats for an on-demand fresh snack. Although peeling ourselves away from the pool was no easy task, it was time for lunch at Mesquite. Eating here was well worth the effort of entering the vertical world again. Every bite was sensational- the ingredients were of the utmost quality and the seasoning in each dish was simply perfect. pros: seaside dining with a fantastic menu, dishes perfectly prepared cons: none must order: tuna tostada, chips and guacamole, lobster roll, and the wagyu wonder bowl (grilled and sliced wagyu, carrots, black bean cream, queso ranchero) After a meal like this, a walk along the coast was in order. Strolling with our feet in the water brought exciting adventures like spotting a nearby estuary with a nesting crocodile and a local employee warning observers to stay away (yikes!). There were also unmonitored jewelry stands and manmade huts, all amidst the picturesque backdrop of the mountains and sea. Unlike most resort towns, this stretch of sand is mostly untouched and undeveloped. After a luxuriously lazy day, and a little late-afternoon nap, we got ourselves together for a magnificent dinner at Carolina, the only AAA Five Diamond Award dining experience in Punta de Mita, located in the St. Regis Hotel Punta de Mita. The restaurant provides a Mexican culinary journey via a four-course, six-course, and ten-course tasting menu; we opted for the six-course experience, which proved to be one of the most unforgettable meals. Each plate arrived with meticulous attention to detail in its presentation, works of art delivered throughout the meal. However, it was the resulting flavors created by the combination of the freshest elements, unique Mexican seasonings, and the incorporation of ingredients from both sea and land, along with a balance of both raw and masterfully grilled dishes, that make Carolina worthy of a spot on everyone's bucket list. pros: a six-course meal was well-paced and completed in just two hours, the kitchen is flexible with a table selecting different tasting menus, consistently outstanding dishes cons: none must order: the six-course tasting menu brilliantly highlighted the chef's range of talent: ceviche kampachi over fried seaweed, beef jerky stuffed with avocado mousse, plantain croquette with oaxacan cheese on top of a chili sauce and cheese emulsion, lobster tartar with yuzu and fermented conch, grilled lubina, dried age rib eye with date relish and caramelized onion, and a chilate inspired dessert with cacao, rice and raw sugar Of course, make sure to tuck the sun to sleep... DAY THREE: Today was spent with explorations and adventures. I highly recommend taking a full day to explore the nearby coastal towns of Sayulita and San Pancho, both are just a quick drive from Punta de Mita. Begin your day with a casual breakfast at Casa Paraiso Restaurante Bar in Sayulita. This open-aired roof-top restaurant is part of a well-kept hostel. The food is fresh, inexpensive, and comes with fresh-squeezed orange juice and a coffee or espresso drink of your choice. After breakfast, head to Rancho Mi Chaparrita for an incredible horseback riding tour through a lush jungle that leads to a spectacular secluded beach. No riding experience is required, although reservations are so make sure to book in advance. This excursion is a highlight of our trip. I'll never forget the scene before me when the jungle suddenly opened up onto the sea. This experience is as close to paradise that you'll ever get. Following our magical horseback ride along the coast we parked our car and walked the colorful streets of Sayulita. You'll easily note why so many expats have made this city their home. There are endless restaurants, bars, and shops all lining heavily trafficked narrow roads. The vibe in this hidden gem is laid back although you'll find some high-end, luxury retail shops dispersed throughout. The beach was packed with people - interestingly most of them were locals. You can easily spend three nights here but strolling the streets for a day will give you a taste of this charming surf town. All that walking made us hungry for lunch, and Kahlo was a wonderful choice. It's no surprise that this Mexican restaurant is so well-reviewed. Just looking at the pictures of our meal here makes me crave another visit The ingredients are so fresh, and the combination of the high-quality components of each dish leads to ecstatic flavors. pros: there are designated servers who take just your drink orders - cocktails are taken very seriously and the kitchen makes one of the spiciest hot sauces that I have ever tasted cons: none must order: the tuna tostadas mixed with sriracha sauce and peanuts are otherworldly After all that delicious food, another walk was in order. This time, we drove to San Pancho (aka San Francisco) to soak up the local culture. San Pancho is a rather small town yet this tropical nugget of a city is packed with color and charm. As of now, it remains overlooked by many tourists but I have no doubt it will soon be a popular destination site. All that sun and food caught up with me and I indulged in a nap before dinner (this is a vacation after all!). Before leaving the hotel property for our last meal of the day, we paid homage to the sun. The sunsets in Punta de Mita are breathtaking. Dinner at Dos Catrinas at The Four Seasons proved another excellent choice. The restaurant is an open-aired, stylish spot in an expansive, modern setting. The food and drinks are spot on. The kitchen gives Mexican cuisine a little flair with unique touches like a homemade BBQ sauce on grilled corn. pros: located on a gorgeous property, a churros stand awaits in front of the restaurant for a sweet post-dinner treat, a bustling atmosphere cons: none must order: the signature beef talyuda dish, so good DAY FOUR: We started our day with another delightful breakfast at the hotel, changing the environment a bit with a nice table in the lobby. One of the things I especially love about the Conrad Punta de Mita is all the nooks you can hide in. The adult pool was crowded today so we splurged on a cabana which spoiled us with the most secluded, decadent day in privacy with no one around to judge our chronic horizontal positioning. With your cabana rental, you'll get a complimentary light, healthy snack, and a cooler packed with water, juices, and sodas. But what makes the cabanas at The Conrad especially worthy is their well-shaded seclusion. I could have spent the night here. As my readers know, I love to eat, and food is the only thing that will get me off my poolside lounge chair. We love the food at Mezquite and opted for another lunch here enjoying the ocean view with our feet in the sand. The highlight of today's meal was the San Pancho sandwich with grilled fish, guajillo chile-lime mayo, and coleslaw. After lunch, we strolled back to the pool. Eating, relaxing, eating, relaxing... my way of shamelessly perfecting laziness. Oh how much I needed this getaway. My daily late afternoon naps were probably the most permissive gift to myself in a long while along with watching the sun close out the day every evening. These were mandatory treats I gave myself, adding to my ultimate vacation pace. The food in Punta de Mita is quite outstanding, and every time we thought we found our favorite restaurant, the next was even better. Hector's Kitchen is set in one of the most attractive settings you'll come across. Seating is under a romantically dimmed palapa that incorporates wood and water elements throughout the decor. The mood created here is elegant and tropical and the food is fantastic. pros: if you've had enough Mexican cuisine, the culinary team creatively prepares dishes from many regions cons: hard to find, it is actually behind the Kupuri Beach Club; also the property is heavily secured so give yourself an extra few minutes to get through security must order: the roasted beet salad was so exquisite that we ordered a second helping (hummus, mixed greens, quinoa, caramelized sunflower seeds, grain mustard vinaigrette, edamame, and feta cheese); the truffled sweet potato tortellini over a broccoli puree with madeira reduction and caramelized pecans; braised shortribs with mushroom risotto and port sauce DAY FIVE: Although I thoroughly enjoyed my daily dose of chilaquiles each morning, on day five I decided to stick to fresh juice, yogurt, cheese, and a customized omelet at the omelet station to start my day off right and light. All this eating has finally caught up with me! After breakfast, we met our guides at Riviera Mita Tours for a private boat tour of The Marieta Islands, a group of uninhabited islands with so much surrounding wildlife they are known as "the Galapagos of Mexico". We spotted wild dolphins, blue-footed booby birds, brown-footed booby birds, and tons of brightly colored fish while snorkeling. Highlights of the excursion were a visit to a stunning nameless island encircled by aqua waters followed by a swim to the famous Hidden Beach. This beach is well-protected with coastal guards on site ensuring that no more than one hundred sixteen visitors can attend each day. Accessing Hidden Beach requires you to swim approximately two hundred feet into the hidden gem. Imagine a beach in the middle of a cave with a massive opening glaring at the sun and sky - this is a perfect example of nature's unrivaled works of art. Note that the islands are only accessible Wednesdays - Sundays so plan accordingly. After a three-hour spectacular excursion, you'll surely get hungry so head over just a few feet away from your tour meeting site to La Pescadora for a lovely lunch with stunning views. Our waiter served us with contagious enthusiasm, expressing joy in pouring a generous portion of tequila into my margarita in front of me. We enjoyed our entire experience here very much. pros: ocean views, fantastic service, fresh food, and the best chips we've had in Mexico cons: none must order: the guacamole which is made table-side, the chips and salsa, and the hamburger which was rated superior to american-made ones by my boys! I was looking forward to exploring the town of Punta de Mita after lunch. However, we found the small, main strip on Avenida el Anclote unimpressive. I don't even have any pictures to share with you - that's how uninspired I was by this neighborhood. After your trip to the Marieta Islands and lunch at La Pescadora I suggest returning to your hotel to enjoy the rest of your day. Alas, I enjoyed one last nap knowing it would be my last one until our next vacation. I gave myself an extra thirty minutes of snooze time because I could. Dinner at Venazu in the W Hotel was a great choice to wrap up our trip over a super tasty meal. Of all the properties we checked out, this one caught our eye the most. The property's dramatic, modern aesthetics and compelling decor made us fantasize about a return visit soon. The night we dined at Venazu a buffet dinner was offered. I normally do not enjoy buffets, especially for dinner, but this one is noteworthy. Everything is made on the spot- fish grilled right before your eyes- and the assortment of Mexican food was grande. pros: impressive setting, well-curated buffet with no lines cons: there are two "venazus" in the area, our gps took us to the wrong one so make sure to enter "w hotel" in your navigation to get to the right location; hotel adds a 10% surcharge in addition to the service charge, to "cover back of the house"- that's more than the states charge! must order: everything was fantastic but don't miss the brioche bread topped with frijoles, a bizarrely incredible combination; the homemade horchata A five-night streak of watching the sunset does wonders for the soul... DAY SIX: I skipped breakfast today to maximize our last day on vacation. I opted for a yoga class on the beach instead, followed by a poolside reading of my friend's inspirational book, loaded with useful tips on how to make more time in your day to focus on the things and people you really want to concentrate on and how to eliminate the tasks that bog you down. Then I worked on this blog post as I basked in the sun. I'm proud of myself for savoring each moment before heading home. And... one last meal in Mexico to close out an epic getaway. This time we tried Paleta, Conrad's poolside dining option. We enjoyed nibbling on nachos and I savored each bite of my Senor Poke Bowl loaded with rice, cucumbers, tuna, oranges, and a side of sesame oil to top it off. Booking hotels through an AMEX platinum card always comes with perks - like a 4:00 pm check out allowing you to take full advantage of your last day at the resort. All good things must come to an end, and sadly it was time to say goodbye. Mexico, once again, you treated us very well. What a trip! Adios for now, but we'll be back real soon!
- March Food & Fun
March has dragged by at a torturous pace, the days stalled while each weekend felt a world away. This slow pace was mainly due to our son's college decisions finally coming in after months of awaiting his fate. We all know the cliche that time flies - I'd like to add that it does, except in March. One of my favorite ways to pass the time during a slowly moving month is by dining with good friends who entrust me to choose our dining destination. It's such a reward for me to introduce our friends to a fabulous spot they may not have enjoyed otherwise. March may have lagged, testing my patience fully, yet having some wonderful dinner dates on the calendar helped me move along. And of course, searching for a unique monthly, local activity to share with my readers kept me busy too. In addition to finding you the best restaurants in San Diego, I have also promised to deliver some special, entertaining activities in the area. My activity discovery for March was filled with flower fields, Spring is in the air! Read on for some foodie & fun inspiration in this incredible city I am lucky to call home. Realm of the 52 Remedies (Convoy Street) San Diego does not lack in the speakeasy department and Realm of the 52 Remedies should be on top of your list for hidden libations in a unique setting. Tucked away inside Common Theory, an expansive brewhouse, you'll first be escorted into a brightly lit, futuristic apothecary filled with herbs and tonics to remedy your ailments. In fact, the cocktails served behind the apothecary are crafted with the hopes of curing those who sip on them. After a brief introduction by the host, you'll be asked to wave your hand to trigger the automatic door which takes you down a path of exotic flags and ultimately leads you into the bar area, which will instantly transport you into a magical realm influenced by the Far East. This is a very cool speakeasy. pros: creative use of medicinal theme which is woven into the cocktail menu and decor, drinks are creatively named after Asian films, the decor is quite attractive with banquet seating inspired by a lotus, tucked away tables, lots of bamboos incorporated throughout, and a screen over the jade bar playing anime cons: parking is difficult, they enforce a strict two-hour seating policy, and the extensive menu is on a qr code making it hard to navigate must order: for drinks: 13 Assasins cocktails, named after a film with the same name (laphroaig, chile liquor, blood orange amaro, smoked saline, baby's breath flower). *in this cocktail we are trying to showcase memorable village fight scenes, smoke from burning houses, bloody sword fights, and all the war scene atmosphere.” I mean... how cool is that? And they did deliver a smokey, dark drink! for food: the kawaii tamago (miso custard, ikura, toasted nori, shiso, and bread crumbs), and the mushroom fried rice (coconut milk, orange blossom, charcoal roasted king trumpet mushrooms, and toasted coconut) Lucrezia (La Jolla, UTC) Interestingly, people have mixed reviews on this new-ish Italian trattoria that opened in La Jolla in the Fall. I have eaten here twice and have enjoyed both of my experiences. If you're looking for solid, affordable Italian cuisine in a bustling environment, you will be satisfied eating here. pros: friendly staff, thorough menu, easy to snatch a reservation cons: the space is massive giving it a factory-like feel must order: the mediterranea salad, arancini balls, and margherita pizza Costa Brava (Pacific Beach) I've fallen in love with this local tapas bar that has mastered bringing Spain to Pacific Beach. Live Spanish music fills the charming, expansive back patio. Our entire dining experience was authentic and delicious, luring us to order practically everything on the menu and leaving us very satiated. pros: real deal tapas joint with a great menu and live flamenco guitar tunes on wednesdays and thursdays, extremely friendly staff cons: none must order: the marinated octopus, patatas a la brava, and the steamed clams in spanish marinera sauce Raised by Wolves (La Jolla, UTC) Raised by Wolves is a unique speakeasy tucked behind a carefully curated liquor shop. An over-the-top entrance through a revolving fireplace that only allows two guests to enter at a time gets you in. The main space is super chic and packed with those eager to down perfectly crafted cocktails. This is a great spot to grab drinks before dinner and to pick up a special bottle for a pal's birthday. pros: opulent interior with a breathtaking bar that boasts a marble water fountain at its center, bartenders whip up mean cocktails, the rightful winner of north america's 50 best bars cons: beware of prices! we naively ordered an old fashioned, unaware that it came with a $699 price tag! management took it off our bill... must order: not an old fashioned, honestly this is the kind of place where you can't go wrong with any drink Hamitbach (Mission Walley) I have been craving a well-made stuffed falafel pita with all the fixings for too long. We've tried falafel everywhere from Camel Valley to Anaheim, yet have been repeatedly disappointed. I've yearned for the ecstatic feeling that comes with tahini gloriously dripping down my chin. The search is over, Hamitbach (which means "the kitchen") is as authentic as it gets. Packed with Israelis who all seem to know each other, I felt like I was back in Tel Aviv. The fast pace, the loud chatter, striking up conversations with strangers - all just perfection. Luckily this joint is a twenty-five-minute drive from me, otherwise, I'd be here daily. No joke. pros: get ready to be transported to Israel with an insanely delicious falafel pita in hand, a large menu that includes schnitzel too, and a lively atmosphere with mainly israeli customers cons: none must order: the falafel pita with anything you'd like from the salad bar - my perfect combination includes cabbage salad, israeli salad, pickles, extra tahini, and lots of schug (hot sauce) The Flower Fields (Carlsbad) This month, my "fun" activity quest led me to the Flower Fields in Carlsbad. The grounds are stunning - fifty-five acres of every possible color of ranunculus beautifully organized into patterns. When the wind hits, the flowers look like they are happily dancing. Adding to the already gorgeous setting, the Pacific Ocean hugs the background. We spent almost two hours roaming the gardens as we noshed on their kettle popcorn and stopped for freshly made lemonade. For $8.00 you can hop on a wagon ride to ensure you cover the entire property. As an orchid lover, I especially enjoyed the cymbidium orchid greenhouse which displays an array of colors that these delightful flowers come in. Go soon, tickets are on sale until May 12th! pros: a perfect way to spend a weekend afternoon, not too crowded, and an abundant offering of inspiring gardens are available to those who love flowers cons: google maps has the address wrong - we made two wrong attempts to find the fields. use the address that is provided on their website to find it easily must see: the american flag of flowers made with red, white, and blue petunias; also make sure to stop in the flower shop - we left with two colorful pots of assorted flowers that are displayed in my garden, bringing a smile to my face each time i pass by them
- February Food & Fun
I am thoroughly relishing the personal challenge I set for myself in 2024, as I explore new and enjoyable activities while continuing my quest to discover the best dining spots in San Diego. By intertwining these two objectives, I am gaining a deeper understanding of the city I call home, fostering a growing affection with each new revelation. Having documented the culinary scene in San Diego for over a year, I find myself continually enthralled by the endless array of restaurants to explore. I am honored to share my favorite monthly finds with you, enabling you to join my journey of embracing a vibrant and gastronomic lifestyle in America's Finest City while also encouraging you to sign up for new experiences beyond those found on a menu. Moe's (Mission Beach) Finding this sexy steak house was a big win for me, I'll certainly be revisiting it many times in the future. As you enter, the first room boasts a large bar, filled with customers sipping cocktails and nibbling on appetizers. The real highlight of the space, however, is the main dining room, dimmed perfectly to set a romantic mood, and uses the incorporation of leather chairs and banquette seating to set the tone. I've added Moe's to my list of San Diego bragging rights that I often reference when we have out-of-town guests. pros: seductive space, delicious food, professional staff cons: none must order: their smokey old-fashioned, filet mignon and lobster tail (which is wonderfully soft and buttery), and any of their decadent desserts insideOUT (Hillcrest) I've been trying to snatch an impossible reservation during one of their revolving pop-up installations for over a year. When the restaurant transforms into one of its highly anticipated, short-lived themes, don't even bother trying to book a table, I suggest you attempt walking in. Defeated by OpenTable, I decided to give this joint a chance when it wasn't dressed to impress and I liked it even in its simplicity stage. The expansive outdoor space has unique water and fire features and many little nooks for private seating. The music was pumping adding to a sort of clubby vibe and the food was enjoyable but not something to write home about. Come here for the fun vibe and ambiance, not a stellar meal. pro: 18+ policy so you never have to worry about little children running around, lively and amusing outdoor environment, attracts a good-looking gay male crowd cons: reservations are impossible when they have a pop-up installment; the arancini balls are not good must order: the strawberry mocktail is well-prepared - refreshing and not too sweet; the chips and dip with caramelized red onion, charred green onion, crumbled fried onion rings & sour cream served with housemade malt vinegar potato chips; the grilled salmon with lemon basil orzo, confit cherry tomatoes, crumbled feta cheese, spinach, green garlic purée Desserts by Clement (Pacific Beach) Chef Clement was a finalist on season nine of the Food Networks Spring Baking Championship and we have him right here in San Diego! Sunlight pours into his cozy, modern French patisserie that serves decadent pastries and hearty sandwiches throughout the day. It's a great space to work off your laptop as you sip a latte and indulge in delicious baked goods. I had a hard time choosing so I ordered practically every macaron and mini-cake on the menu! (see left photo). It's a hard life committed to research when you write about food - rest assured I am thoroughly committed! pros: private parking lot makes parking a breeze, great natural lighting, nice place to plant yourself for a couple of hours to work remotely cons: none must order: the caramel and hazelnut macarons were my favorite along with the coconut mini cake (dark chocolate mousse, hazelnut praline, and chocolate shortbread) and the pink lady mini cake (whipped ganache with pistachio crumbs, strawberry jelly, shortbread) Books and Records (Bankers Hill) From start to finish we loved everything about this lively local favorite that dishes out delicious American cuisine. The service was spot-on, the craft cocktails were unique and made with high-quality ingredients, and the food was flavorful throughout each bite. pros: live music wednesdays through sundays, lots of vegetarian options, fantastic service cons: none must order: the charred cabbage (over an artichoke purée), the tuna crudo (kimchi-pineapple aioli, candied jalapeño, pickled ginger, lemongrass oil, and the deconstructed lava cake (top right photo) which is an absolute must Specialty Produce (Middletown) This gem of a place falls under both the "food" and "fun" categories! Checking out this unique supermarket is an experience in itself. I have never seen such a stunning and abundant display of rare and exotic produce. My favorite room is "the farmer's market" where you can find every kind of mushroom species, dozens of varieties of edible flowers, and loads of unique veggies. However, the back area, which we almost missed because we thought it was an employees-only zone, is fully stocked with practically every fruit and vegetable possible. My occasional Sunday visits to my local farmer's market have been replaced by this incredible grocery store that has exposed me to produce I have never heard of, seen, or tasted. We left with packed boxes of fruits, most we had never tried, and as soon as we got home the whole family gathered around the kitchen excitedly awaiting to taste the next new fruit we purchased. Visiting this shop is truly memorable! pros: the staff members are extremely passionate and knowledgeable; it sells a wide range of seasonal produce with many items that you likely have never heard of or tasted; it is clean, spacious, and visually stimulating; they deliver cons: you must put on surgical gloves before entering; some of the rooms are very cold (bring a jacket) must order: grab a staff member and ask them to point out some of the unique produce they have in stock and to make suggestions and of course, grab those cotton candy grapes if there are any left Total Raptor eXperience (Torrey Pines Glider Port) Ever been curious about birds of prey? If so, this is the experience for you! Our tour guides Andrea and Antonella filled us with facts about these fascinating creatures. We had two hours of personal time with Reggie, an eleven-year-old falcon, and Logan, a three-year-old hawk. I highly recommend spending your afternoon watching these birds in action with gorgeous views overlooking the cliffs of La Jolla as hand gliders soar through the sky. pros: a rare opportunity to get up close and personal with birds of prey; leave with chock full of knowledge and a great understanding of them cons: watching them eat quail brains may not be for everyone inside tips: book a private class for more interactions with the birds and more time to ask the many questions that you'll have
- 3 Nights in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Our first visit to Carmel was in November of 2020. I instantly fell in love with this charming town packed with some of the best restaurants, the cutest downtown architecture and collection of shops, and incredible proximity to the sea and other coastal towns like Seaside and Monterey. Carmel was one of the three California cities we considered moving to when we left the East Coast (along with Laguna and La Jolla). It's upscale yet laid back and has access to breathtaking vistas along the California coast, including Big Sur, just forty-five minutes away. What I especially love about this coastal town is its magnetic pull to get you outdoors. Locals are extremely active soaking in the abundant hiking trails in their backyard followed by a delicious meal in the village. Beyond the Pacific Ocean, you'll find fertile farmlands, vineyards, and infinite lush rolling hills making up the lovely landscape. Three nights is the minimal amount of time you should plan to visit, one week is ideal. Below are some insights on what to do and where to eat when you're lucky to find yourself here. What to do While in Carmel: Set aside a full day to drive south along the Pacific Coast Highway to stop at the many monumental overlook points and embark on some unforgettable hikes. We had a plan in place outlining which trails we would visit but ended up being enticed by several stops along the way leading us to a spontaneous day of unplanned trails that took our breaths away. Ultimately, we drove approximately thirty minutes south of Bixby Creek Bridge, loving every minute on the windy cliff-side roads that delivered to die for views every step of the way. Soberanes Point and Whale Peak This 1.6-mile loop hike is fairly easy, with an incline of only 270 feet yet it may not be a simple achievement for those with a fear of heights. At one point the trail becomes fairly narrow with nothing between the edge of the cliff and the crashing ocean a couple of hundred feet below. Despite this quickly passing challenge, it is a manageable trail that has constant stunning coastal views along the way. Garrapata State Park Epic views, wild challah lilies, and a river that runs into the sea... this is my idea of Paradise. In all our travels and trails, I have never experienced a scene so deeply moving. This magical piece of our earth rightfully draws a large crowd compared to the other trails but you'll still be able to find your nook to revel in the majestic beauty of our planet. Spend an afternoon strolling through the streets of Carmel-by-the-Sea Village The downtown area of Carmel boasts endless charming courtyards and secret passages that keep your interest piqued as you peruse the sidewalks that line over sixty eating establishments, eighty art studios, and hundreds of specialty shops. I love this little town. I dare say it is even nicer than my own beautiful La Jolla downtown. Walking through the main streets of the shopping district is a treat for the eyes as every storefront will catch your attention with unique products, quaint architectural details, attractive landscaping, or entrances to hidden treasures. Lodge at the exclusive Tehama Golf Club (if you can): Clint Eastwood owns the land to this 2,000-acre luxury gated country club with expansive homes and a sprawling golf course that is surrounded by rolling hills. As soon as you enter the property, the serenity that comes with the curvaceous tree-lined roads takes you over. The overwhelming relaxation provided by the isolation that comes with staying here is unparalleled. Wildlife exists everywhere you look; in the evenings you'll easily spot flocks of turkeys and deer feeding. The main clubhouse has a cozy restaurant that serves impressive food and also hosts the only four large hotel rooms on the grounds, each with massive rustic doors and private patios that look onto the golf course. Tehama is a slice of heaven available only to those with friends or family who are members of the association. Private, gorgeous, tranquil, and serene... the only thing better than visiting the property is living on it. Where to Dine in Carmel: La Bicyclette During our 2020 visit to Carmel, we had an extremely memorable meal at this cozy French bistro. Initially, we indulged at La Bicyclette for dinner. This time around we opted to experience breakfast. The smell of freshly baked bread amidst the open kitchen's wood-fired oven flame immediately sets the tone for a cozy environment. The food is consistently superb and beautifully presented. Despite a couple of minor hiccups, this eatery remains on my list of best restaurants in Carmel. pros: delicious french fare mostly prepared in a wood-fired oven in their open kitchen, quaint atmosphere cons: they didn't have any pastries listed on the menu upon opening, no reservations for weekend breakfast, staff could use some training on being more friendly must order: tartine la bicyclette (avocado toast, hard-boiled egg, smoked salmon, and roe) and the eggs in purgatory (two wood-fire eggs, potato ragout, green onion, vermont cheddar, and toasted country bread) Lafayette Bakery A local favorite, this cute bakery off the main strip of town bakes fresh breads and pastries daily. They have a great assortment of premade sandwiches and make a perfectly prepared latte. They also serve a big dose of agenda that comes with their Pride flags and BLM posters- not surprisingly they attract customers who wear "Free Palestine" t-shirts. I prefer my coffee and chocolate croissant without a DEI indoctrination. So, next time we're in the area, we'll skip this spot. pros: large selection of sandwiches, well-trained baristas cons: politically charged cafe, too progressive for the conservative folks of Carmel must order: an ounce of patience and ability to keep quiet and not be triggered by the irony of their failed attempts of inclusivity that only causes divisiveness Stationaery I am obsessed with the breakfasts here. This is another restaurant that blew me away during our first visit to Carmel and kept me counting down the days to our second meal here. We were the first to arrive at 8:00 am on a Monday. By 8:20 am the place was packed with eager patrons ready to start their day with a fabulous meal. pros: warm and attentive staff, enticing menu, beautifully prepared dishes cons: none must order: the shakshouka with halloumi cheese, the yogurt bowl, and the chilaquiles Pangea Grill Pangea Grill was a spontaneous choice for lunch on a Sunday afternoon. Since we didn't have reservations we had to wait forty minutes for a table, surprisingly it was worth the wait. Bustling and lively with a friendly staff, the kitchen pumps out really good California cuisine using only the freshest ingredients. pros: varied menu with lots of options, extremely fresh ingredients, very warm hostess cons: reservations required, long wait times for walk-ins must order: the fish tacos are outstanding Maligne Restaurant This fairly new restaurant to the Carmel food scene makes my list of top California restaurants. A first experience for us, the staff opened the main door to greet us and welcome us inside; they then escorted us out with a genuine expression of gratitude for our visit. The aroma of the dishes being made in the open kitchen will hit you instantly making you instantly ravenous for everything on the menu. For the vegetarian in our group who did not have many options on the menu, the waiter came back with three options that the kitchen offered to customize for her. As if the high-level service and wonderful scents lurking through the air aren't enough, the food is outrageously good. Every single bite left me wanting more. pros: unique creations, superb service, open kitchen with wood-fired oven, fantastic fare cons: absolutely none must order: kushi oysters, crab toast (dungeness crab with calabrian mayo over focaccia bread), crab fettuccini, and the kampachi crudo Hay's Place Located in the gated community of Pebble Beach this Mexican eatery is known for its lively atmosphere. On the night we dined there a nearby table was celebrating a birthday while other large groups entered in jolly moods. This isn't a fine dining establishment but it is a local favorite and you can count on it for a solid meal. The nachos are the star of the show- they are presented in a tall tower held together by a stainless steel cylinder. The waiter then dismantles them by lifting the container leaving guests oohing as they watch the nachos collapse into their traditional form. pros: reasonable prices, nice views overlooking the golf course, fun vibe cons: the parking lot is a bit of a walk must order: the nachos and any of their salads or bowls (the ingredients are extremely fresh). And that's a wrap! Our three nights in Carmel-by-the-Sea delivered everything we needed - quality time with family, good friends, and nature along with sunshine, delicious dining, and memory-making. Something tells me we will be making a third visit here in the near future.











