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  • 1 Night, Coronado Island

    Staycations are the best. I've made it a priority to enjoy a separate staycation with each of our three children once a year since they were five years old. Even just one or two nights in the next town over has always provided meaningful bonding time and memory-making with them individually. You don't have to get bogged down by planning a big trip that requires a flight; I promise you that your children and teens will be just as happy spending quality time with you even an hour away from home. Last month I took my daughter to Coronado Island , only thirty minutes from home yet it felt like we were completely transported out of San Diego . Living like a tourist in our city brought lots of excitement and fun for the twenty-four hours we staycationed together. The Hotel Del Coronado is an iconic beach resort that dates back to 1888 and has a history of haunted sightings in its original building. If you'd prefer not to room with a ghost, book a room in one of the well-appointed newer towers. We stayed in the cabanas and loved the proximity to the beach promenade and direct access to the Sun Deck open-air restaurant. The rooms are decorated in cool coastal hues and have large patios. The front desk welcomed us warmly and set the tone for a great getaway as soon as we checked in. Once we dropped off our luggage we walked straight to Orange Avenue , the island's main street lined with high-end retail shops, cafes, and restaurants. We enjoyed immersing in retail therapy at some of the well-curated stores ("Weekends" at the hotel has an awesome designer collection of women's clothing!), followed by a delicious lunch. Then we ice-skated on the property's rink and rented a golf cart to explore the island. There is so much to do on this magical island! photos: one of the hotel's several pools, the cabanas lobby decorated for the holidays, stunning views at Sun Deck, double Queen ocean view room in the cabanas wing, ice-skating at the hotel, room's private patio photos: Fuzziwig's Candy Factory, MooTime Creamery, Hotel Del main lobby decorated for the holidays The Henry is one of my favorites on the island, always serving great food in a charming coastal setting with a friendly team of service staff. Their "famous recipe" is the pretzel and provolone fondue, an absolutely worthy splurge of calories. Renting a golf cart to explore the island is a must when visiting. The Coronado Golf Cart Rentals   offers a super easy check-in and drop-off and has a variety of cart sizes to accommodate different party sizes. Driving in a cart is permitted almost anywhere on the island; you'll love weaving through the neighborhoods to look at the beautiful homes, cutting across the island to view the gorgeous San Diego skyline, and riding by the naval base. For delicious crepes head over to Little Frenchie , a charming French bistro on Orange Avenue. And their jardin salad is simply delightful. Walking along the promenade during the sunset is breathtaking. Start with a cocktail at the Beach and Taco Shop to soak in the setting with live music enhancing the island vibe. Then walk endlessly and watch the sky get painted by the sun. If you love to eat as much as I do, you'll probably want one more bite before heading to bed. The Sun Deck , on the hotel's property, has firepits roaring throughout the expansive deck with lots of seating making a table easy to snatch. Their burgers hit the spot! For breakfast, my favorite eatery on the island is Clayton's Bakery Bistro , their espresso drinks, and croissants are divine and I love the authentic French bistro mood they have created. There's nothing like an early morning walk on the beach before it gets inhabited by beachgoers. The serenity is captivating. The dunes and vast sand on the island call you to wander and appreciate our beautiful planet. So, that's a wrap! A 24-hour staycation in Coronado Island looks like this: DAY ONE : Check in to the Hotel Del Coronado at 10:00 am Stroll along Orange Avenue and shop Stop for appetizers at The Henry Rent a golf cart and explore the island Have lunch at Little Frenchie Ice-Skate at The Del Have a cocktail at Beach and Taco Shop   and enjoy live music before the sun sets Walk the promenade to pay homage to the sun Grab a bite at The Sun Deck Watch a movie in your room and enjoy it with some candy from Fuzziwig's Candy Factory DAY TWO: Linger at Clayton's Bakery Bistro and savor a leisurely breakfast Walk along the dunes and the coast enjoying the solitude Hit the hotel's retail shops- Weekends has an incredible selection of women's apparel Voila! SO easy yet so fun; just a twenty-four-hour escape, yet the memories made will last a lifetime.

  • December Food & Fun

    I can't believe an entire year has passed by almost as quickly as I eat a meal. I hope you shared some new foodie discoveries as you followed my journey in the San Diego food scene. My hunt for the best restaurants began two full years ago and somehow my list of eateries to check out continues to grow. When we left New York City in 2021 for the West Coast I was concerned that my dining experiences would never live up to the epic culinary scene in the Big Apple . Boy was I wrong. I continue to fall in love with San Diego each day and the excitement that comes with repeatedly stumbling upon fantastic restaurants plays a big role in my love for America's finest city. I look forward to delving deeper into the plethora of options in our backyard and continuing to inspire you to try new places, jump into new experiences, and make new memories around food. I wish you all a very healthy and happy 2025 filled with many adventures, meals with family and friends, and making some of your own discoveries too! SOT BBQ (Kearny Mesa) SOT opened its doors four months ago to bring San Diegans the ancient method of Korean BBQ over a cast iron cauldron. This spot is perfect for those, like me, who love to taste many different dishes; we were beautifully hit with a deluge of tasty sides that came with the premium Wagyu sampler we ordered. You'll have a blast lingering at your table, nibbling on all the delicious sides accompanying your meal, while your server grills your protein perfectly. pros: you'll have a great time, loads of sampling, really solid Korean food cons: they surprisingly don't have homemade hot sauce must order: the wagyu boards and the cold spicy noodles Eddie V's (La Jolla) I don't think there is any other restaurant in San Diego where I have dined more than Eddie V's. This is one of my go-to favorites knowing I will always be served a perfectly prepared meal each time. The setting is elegant, the service is refined, and the kitchen always whips delicious steak and seafood dishes. Oh, and their cocktails are heavenly too. pros: stunning ocean views, expansive outdoor rooftop, impeccable service, ability to consistently executive a positive dining experience cons: parking nearby is difficult although valet parking is available must order : smoked old-fashioned, yellowtail sashimi, truffled macaroni and cheese, any steak, and the kung pao calamari Rare Society (Solana Beach) The chic, masculine vibe sets the right ambiance for one of San Diego's best steak houses. We enjoyed an early 6:00 pm dinner on a Monday evening and by the time we left the restaurant, it was bustling with diners. I especially loved the wagyu board served on a lazy susan making sharing fun and easy. You're guaranteed great food and a great time here! pros: great environment, professional staff, well-executed dishes cons: the bathroom locks are tricky - look for the round button on the hardware and push it to lock must order: the steak board and oysters Leila (North Park) As soon as this Middle Eastern restaurant hit North Park it created a buzz. Very few places in San Diego make it as difficult to snatch a reservation as it is here. The space is visually stunning . The multi-leveled interior boasts authentic Middle Eastern decor, romantic lighting (making it very difficult to photograph), and even a large waterfall. The food is good , but not great yet you'll have so much fun sharing the salads and grilled dishes in the gorgeous and lively space, ultimately making you feel better about the bill. No detail was left behind in creating a spectacular setting. pros: breathtaking interior full of authentic middle eastern touches cons: difficult to get reservations must order: salmon skewer and tah dig Blue Whale (La Jolla) I love having this gem in my neighborhood and frequent it often for a healthy, yummy breakfast. The restaurant takes pride in serving locally sourced ingredients in a relaxed, coastal setting. For a guilt-free meal that will leave you well-satiated, look no further. pros: kitchen uses only the freshest ingredients, healthy menu, large patio cons: none must order: breakfast bowl with farro, arugula, oyster mushroom, fresno chili, hummus, crispy garlic chip, goat cheese, and topped with a fried egg This month I tried two fun experiences that I have yet to try: Mystique Dining (La Jolla) A Vegas -based concept lies in the heart of La Jolla Village offering a three-course meal followed by a magic show. The dining room is intimate, limited to thirty guests, and is beautifully decorated seasonally. Attendees can pre-select their seating at a communal table or at a few two-tops that line the walls. If you live in the area, it is something fun to check out once. pros: dramatic entrance into an impressive dining room, they book well-regarded talent, interactive, fun cons: the entire experience is 3 hours and could probably be trimmed Holiday High Tea at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar (Del Mar) Nothing will get you into the holiday spirit more than roaring fireplaces and live piano playing in a room filled with well-dressed patrons dining amidst an ornately festive environment. Kicking off the holiday season at The Grand is definitely a good idea. pros: elegant setting, flexible with dietary restrictions, staff takes pride in their knowledge of teas, cons: the holiday high tea menu is $40 more per person than their usual high tea for the same amount of food

  • November Food Diary, San Diego Edition

    It's that time of year when we prepare for winter hibernation as the temperature drops and the sun sets unreasonably early. Although all I want to do is eat during the cooler months, peeling away from a warm home into the cool nights is difficult. Ideally, I would eat all my meals in bed with a heavy duvet draped over me. Yet, chasing the sun, I've found a new determination in breakfast where I can bask in the glorious daytime weather we're lucky to have in La Jolla during Fall. Dinner dates do call though and once we manage to get out the door, it's always proved to be a worthwhile mission. Don't let the winter weather keep you from exploring the San Diego food scene. And remember, there is no shame in having a 5:00 pm dinner when it truly feels like 8:00 pm. The early bird gets more time under a warm comforter. Takaramono (La Jolla) You won't find anything ordinary on the menu at this new sushi bar in La Jolla . This Japanese eatery takes sushi dining to a new level of outstanding innovation and flavors. I can't believe I live five minutes away from this reasonably priced outstanding eatery. pros: beautiful presentation, nice ambiance, extremely fresh ingredients, creative menu cons : none must order: we ordered two rounds of the wagyu and seared bluefin, which knocked our socks off Boker Kitchen  (University City) I've visited this breakfast joint a few times since it recently opened, craving a meal to start my day here often. For a traditional Israeli breakfast, you won't find a place in San Diego that serves more authentic dishes. Their bread, croissants, and bourekas are perfectly baked daily. I always take an assortment to go so I can keep noshing throughout the day. I love this new addition to my dining portfolio. pros: authentic Israeli breakfast, incredible baked goods, they make great lattes cons: there are only two small tables inside, otherwise it is outdoor seating only must order : bourekas pinukim: cheese bourekas, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, and tahini The Corner Mercantile & Eatery (La Jolla Shores) I recently read about this unique concept which combines a local shop to buy items to stock your fridge and pantry and a kitchen that pumps out breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Naturally, I followed the rave reviews for a breakfast treat. The food is good but the draw is really in the charming shop and outdoor patio sprinkled with flowers and flamingoes. pros: cute outdoor dining, lots of tempting options on the menu cons: oddly, while this one-stop shop seems to have everything , it does not have an espresso machine. must order: egg and cheese croissant Candor (La Jolla) Candor is a neighborhood institution and a great go-to spot for well-prepared global flavors. You'll never get bored eating here. In addition to their nightly specials, you'll find cuisine inspired by Italy, the Middle East, Spain, Mexico, etc... it never feels redundant to drop by for a meal. pros: great service, well-rounded menu, a local favorite cons: the shared bathrooms need to be tended to must order: foraged mushrooms and pea arancini balls, za'atar roasted salmon and tahini, prime beef burger, farmer's market green salad 31THIRTYONE by Deckman's (North Park) This new addition to San Diego's food scene comes from the same owners as Valle de Guadalupe's hit restaurant Deckman's . A four-course prix-fix menu focuses on sustainable sourcing and best environmental practices, inevitably resulting in the usage of seasonal ingredients and delicious flavors. pros : knowledgeable staff, creative flavor combinations, healthy dishes cons : background music would be a nice addition to liven up the space must order: the mindful mushrooms (2nd course) and swordfish with sunchokes (3rd course) are other-worldly With Hanukkah and Christmas around the corner, I predict we will all be eating many homecooked meals in our pajamas next month, along with fun, celebratory meals in the many incredible restaurants we have available to us in San Diego . Tis the season to eat, drink, be merry, and lay low in flannel pjs and fuzzy socks by the fireplace. Who says we can't have it all?

  • 2 Nights in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

    I've found a new favorite weekend escape in Valle de Guadalupe , a small wine region in Baja approximately two hours south of the border. With an attractive landscape of sprawling fields and rolling hills and an outstanding food scene, this part of Mexico is the ultimate destination, especially for those living in southern California. This was my second visit to Valle (read about my first visit HERE ) and I left with a longer list of places to check out upon my return- there is a lot to discover here. Although hospitality in the region is a bit backward, the charming wineries and endless selection of restaurants will ensure your quick return. Two nights yields the perfect amount of time needed to explore the region and leave relaxed, refreshed, and extremely well-fed. There are two ways to cross the border: driving and walking across the pedestrian bridge. Whatever you choose, make sure that you and your entourage have global entry (and sentri for the driver of the car) - on the day we walked back into the USA the regular line spanned multiple streets with a cross time of at least six hours. With Global Entry we zipped right through. Hiring a driver to meet you at the border and then walking across is my personal preference. It's nice having a local familiar with the area take the helm but mostly you get a designated driver after all that wine tasting! I've hired Luna Travel Chofer twice now, Dani is the best! Where to Stay: Banyan Tree Veya This is hands down the nicest property in Valle . The grounds are striking, the neutral colors of the structures blend into the natural landscape, and the rooms are large with private patios overlooking the hotel's vineyards. The soothing nature of the property makes it an ideal location for a weekend getaway. We booked the harmony room category; these rooms boast a large heated plunge pool, a private hammock, an outdoor shower, and a breathtaking view. It was hard to peel away each morning. pros: stunning property, expansive rooms, unique spa treatments, friendly staff cons: they are still working out kinks and operate on backward, archaic systems that will leave you frustrated often La Cocina de Dona Esthela Upon arrival to Valle our first stop was at Esthela's , well-known by locals who proudly watched her grow from a tiny kitchen into a massive compound. The patrons are mostly Mexicans coming together to eat an authentic Mexican meal. I ate the best chilaquiles I've ever eaten, and those who follow my food journey know that I have eaten many chilaquiles. This will be a staple in our upcoming trips to the area. pros: laid-back, large portions, dirt cheap (a bill for the four of us including water, a dessert, four dishes, and a Mexican coffee, came out to $42) cons: the staff doesn't speak english so brush up on your spanish and they don't have a liquor license so don't count on margaritas! must order: the chilaquiles are otherworldly, ask for a side of their homemade hot sauce Vinas Pijoan After a full meal, we were ready to sip some locally produced wine. Ok, so the wines in Valle  may not be the best but regardless it's fun to do a tasting and get to know the flavors produced in the region. The sommelier was friendly and didn't rush us as we tasted two whites, a rose, and a red wine underneath a gazebo overlooking sprawling vineyards below. pros: flexible with any combination of wine tastings you'd like, relaxing atmosphere on pretty grounds, knowledgeable staff cons: no one else was there, a bit quiet must order: my favorite was their chardonnay and rose Vinedos Mina Penelope After a relaxing tasting in one vineyard, make your way to another and enjoy some vineyard hopping! We ended up in Mina Penelope's restaurant, not the winery because we did not know that reservations were required (make a note- make reservations in advance!). The restaurant was perfectly acceptable though, you can sip on the wines they produce regardless or opt for a well-crafted cocktail. pros: nice touches throughout: fresh lavender on the sealed menu, colorful murals, open kitchen cons: the kitchen only allows you to order a tasting menu, no a la carte options must order: we didn't eat so I cannot recommend any dishes however my paloma was perfect! Animalon We first dined in Animalon three months ago and were completely blown away by the creativity and mastery of the outstanding dishes whipped up in the open kitchen. When we learned about their recent well-deserved earning of a Michelin star, we rushed back to enjoy another fantastic meal. Everything about this place is magic from dining underneath the massive oak tree to every course that varies in colors, flavors, and textures while continuously keeping you in anticipation of what comes next. pros: the kitchen is very flexible with dietary restrictions for the tasting menu, visually stunning presentations coupled with exceptional flavors cons: staff slacked a bit during our second visit, sloppy service since receiving a star must order: the six-course menu is plenty for you to immerse in a masterful culinary journey DAY TWO: Oja A weekend brunch while on vacation is mandatory and visiting this desert-whimsical property is a must when in Valle . Begin your boozy brunch by roaming the grounds to soak in its appeal. Water fountains, tepees, and strategically placed mirrors all add to the allure of the expansive restaurant that immediately enhances your dining experience. pros : breathtaking grounds, perfect for those IG captures cons: food just "ok", for this superiorly designed space you'd expect better from the kitchen must order: the salmon toast Spa Time at Banyan Tree After a long, lazy meal, spend the afternoon relaxing at Banyan Tree 's spa. The hydro pool room is available for private booking in between treatments for no additional charge; this is a major perk as you get the entire space to yourself to dip between the ice baths, hot baths, and a variety of hydrotherapy pools along with private usage of the steam room and sauna. For our stay, we booked the temazcal ritual ceremony which cleanses the body through volcanic stones that release steam when infused with water. As the heat permeates, the guiding shaman sprinkles a variety of herbs on the rocks to create a sense of calm and relaxation. You'll sweat like crazy while your guide blows a conch shell and thumps on a drum as you transcend into a place of ultimate serenity. It's a surreal experience not to be missed. pros: private usage of the hydro pool room, incredible temazcal ceremony not commonly offered elsewhere, large couple massage rooms cons: tiny locker rooms, no note-worthy waiting rooms Villa Torel This Middle-Eastern restaurant creates a Tuscan vibe, especially during sunset when the sun colors the sky over the rolling grape vines and lavender bushes surrounding the tables. Many enticing shareable dishes comprise the menu, focusing on seasonal vegetables and seafood. The results are delicious. pros: appealing menu with middle-eastern flair, beautiful ambiance, offer a vegetarian menu cons: we arrived for our 7:30 pm reservation and were instantly notified that the kitchen was closing at 8:00 pm, on a Saturday night must order: bluefin raw tuna with rhubarb kimchi and tahini, roasted carrot over duck jus and citrus cream, grilled eggplant with labneh and smoked fish, chocolate pistachio cake DAY THREE: Begin your morning walking along the hotel's property following paths that lead you to outlook points and meditative gardens. Stroll through the grounds and shop the well-curated gift shop. Start the day slow and easy and soak in the beauty around you. Sandra's Restaurant (Puerto Nuevo) As you head back to the border, stop halfway through in the vibrant town of Puerto Nuevo and stop at Sandra's for one of the best meals you could dream of. There's a reason this restaurant has been an institution for decades, it truly lives up to the hype. Locals line up out the door for a chance to dine at this superb seafood restaurant. pros: one of your most memorable meals awaits through simple, authentic local preparation of fresh seafood cons: without a reservation the wait time is excessive must order: grilled lobster, seafood tacos, and margaritas I certainly wouldn't mind visiting Valle de Guadalupe every three months. It is such an easy escape from San Diego ; just two nights in the region is ample time to rejuvenate in its picturesque setting filled with wonderful restaurants and wineries. If you haven't been yet, add it to your list asap , trust me on this one.

  • Where to Stay & Eat in Los Angeles

    Los Angeles's proximity to San Diego makes it an easy escape filled with great shopping, restaurants, and museums. I love spending a weekend in Lala Land, especially in the summer when the streets are bustling and Ocean Avenue is filled with people enjoying the sunshine. While traveling this summer, I picked up a copy of Conde Nast - I love reading about traveling while flying to my travel destination. It fills me with inspiration as to what other journeys lie ahead. An article about the newly renovated The Georgian in Santa Monica piqued my interest so I booked it for our recent LA visit. The staff set the tone before we checked in by emailing me to introduce themselves personally and to make themselves available to us. Upon arrival, we were offered a glass of wine. They know how to elevate their guests' experience. This Art Deco hotel impressed us with its stylish interior and boutique hotel experience. pros: excellent location across the coastal promenade, walking distance from Third Street Promenade , complimentary bikes, spacious rooms with retro touches, both of its restaurants are lively, this place is a scene with top-notch restaurants including the very impressive speakeasy, The Georgian Room . cons: the lobby is too small and the hotel is too busy with people dropping in to grab a drink at the chic bar or a bite at Sirena and The Georgian Room Hillstone (Santa Monica) We changed our original dining plans and opted last-minute for dinner at Hillstone since it was near our hotel and I remember loving their veggie burgers. My memory served me well. Their veggie burgers are hands down the best on the planet. pros: energetic setting, mouthwatering veggie burgers with all the fixings cons: hard to get a reservation on weekends must order: a veggie burger and french fries Ghengis Cohen (West Hollywood) We eat at this New York-style Chinese restaurant every time we visit Los Angeles. It's become a tradition. You'll love everything about this place from the live music adjacent to the main dining space to the kitschy decor and the many New Yorkers who book a booth to feast on the authentic dishes. pros: delicious food, easy to make a reservation, live music, friendly service cons : if you like to stay in Santa Monica , as we do, it's a drive but totally worth it must order: honestly, as many dishes to share as possible, everything is so good Gracias Madre (West Hollywood) This vegan Mexican restaurant is another staple on our list - no visit to Los Angeles is complete without us eating brunch here. I have always been fascinated by the flavors they master with vegan ingredients. I'm not normally a fan of vegan food but the kitchen here makes next-level dishes with the freshest ingredients that always yield an inspiring meal. pros: spacious outdoor patio, terrific cocktails, and outstanding vegan dishes cons: none must order: the nachos are divine Layla's Bagels (Santa Monica) The reviews for this bagel shop are off the charts so naturally I had to head over to see what all the buzz is about. Their hand-rolled sourdough bagels come stuffed with unique ingredient combinations you won't find anywhere else and their bagels are extra toasted, which is exactly how I like my bagels. On a weekend morning, their outdoor patio was filled with locals starting their day adding to the charm of a neighborly atmosphere. pros: interesting bagel sandwich options, fast service, plenty of outdoor seating cons: price tag of $14-$17 per bagel must order: sammi's egg sammy: scrambled eggs, aged cheddar, arugula, chermoula Manuela (Arts District) My favorite kind of restaurants are the ones that have so many incredibly tempting options that put me in conflict mode, ultimately ordering everything that strikes my fancy because it's just too hard to give up on anything. Manuela ' s brunch menu is filled with dishes made with many vegetable ingredients paired with protein in ways you won't find anywhere. The expansive space lies in an old warehouse filled with art and a massive skylight above. Despite its large size, it's packed. Even with a reservation we had to wait fifteen minutes to be seated. It was totally worth the wait. pros: tons of tantalizing options, outstanding flavors, great service cons: off-the-beaten-path location must order : hen of the woods mushroom, polenta cake, creme fraiche, and garlic; snake river farms hanger steak, charred poblano, tomatillo vinaigrette, fried eggs; barbecued oysters, charred poblano butter, breadcrumbs, parmesan; grilled yellowtail castelvetrano olives, red onion, celery aioli, lemon

  • July Food & Fun

    After being away for almost a month, I was ecstatically surprised to return to La Jolla unveiling so many new restaurants. Settling back into reality after an incredible trip abroad was less painful with the distractions of these new eateries that popped up around every turn I made. The food scene in La Jolla has been elevated by these newcomers who have taken cuisine to a heightened level of creativity. My future is bright with new dining adventures ahead, and so is yours! Sea & Sky (La Jolla) Executive Chef, Anthony Wells, formerly at the acclaimed Juniper & Ivy spearheads the new penthouse-level eatery at the Hotel La Jolla in La Jolla Shores . Expect beautiful sunset and sea views through the floor-to-ceiling windows, a peek into the open kitchen, a soothing setting of blues and beiges, and a perfectly executed meal. pros: creative menu with delicious results, eye-catching views cons: the floating island dessert is overly sweet, and staff continuously forgot to bring serving utensils along with dishes must order : mojo peppers stuffed with eggplant duxelles, topped with salsa; brassica "caesar" with pickled ramps, crispy quinoa, and tonnato sauce; and the half-grilled snapper Le Coq (La Jolla) La Jolla can now proudly flex having this new addition led by another celebrity chef, Tara Monsod of Animae . Monsod gives this sexy French steakhouse a twist with Asian and coastal touches. The decor is a sultry mix of leather, velvet, wood, and mood lighting; guests dress the part to contribute to the attractive scene. As you enter, the bustling bar greets you first, one that will surely lure La Jollans out past their abnormally early retreat times. Le Coq masterfully sets the tone for a long, lingering dinner over craft cocktails like the Boulevardier Noisette and solid dishes. I want to return soon to delve into other dishes that looked more enticing than the ones ordered. pros: parisian feel, great service, unique menu, striking bar cons: two scales were in the tuna tartare must order: the summer squash with pickled strawberry, gruyère, and anchovy oil is ridiculously good; i do wish i had the opportunity to taste more dishes and will return soon to taste menu items that caught my eye La Corriente Cevicheria Nais (La Jolla) The restaurant scene in San Diego is saturated with Mexican cuisine yet this Mexico-based chain chose to take a risk and open a location in La Jolla . The team knows they bring a "wow factor" to stand out and drown out the competition. The food is unbelievably good, purposefully diverting from the standard menu found at many Mexican restaurants. Seafood-inspired with vegetarian options, a lively tropical vibe, and great service make this a keeper! pros: outstanding dishes, complimentary sauce sampler, a very spicy homemade hot sauce cons : faces traffic-heavy la jolla boulevard, they don't accept reservations, only beer and wine for now must order: ahi tuna tostada with thinly sliced tuna, caramelized onion, aioli, cucumber, ponzu over a tostada; battered fish taco, "kalifornia" taco with a california pepper, shrimp, melted cheese, and special sauce cream; "roka" crunchy shrimp with ponzu sauce, aioli, and lemon Steak 48   (Del Mar) Steak 48 , is hands-down the best steak house in San Diego . Refined elegance in a modern setting meets high-level service and an ideal menu for celebrating any occasion. Every single bite of every single dish was just heavenly. A grande dining experience like this comes with a high price tag but it's worth every penny. pros: the hostess called me the next day to follow up on our dinner and to ensure we had a stellar time- no restaurant has ever done this! cons: absolutely none must order : sasanian royal osetra caviar; australian tajima wagyu; filet mignon; cookies & cream popcorn sundae Amaya (Del Mar) Executive Chef Bryn McArthur recently transformed Amaya into a Parisian Brasserie with an outstanding menu at the beautiful Fairmont Grand Del Mar . The expansive space and outdoor patio lend themselves to hosting unique events like a five-course dinner with wine pairings from the acclaimed Silver Oak Winery . The evening began with a refreshing course of heirloom melons on top of a mint yogurt paired with a Twomey Sauvignon Blanc resulting in a refreshing way to prepare for the meal ahead. Next came a brilliantly prepared smoked swordfish served with Santa Barbara Uni, dill, fennel, and miso pot de creme paired with a glass of Twomey Pinot Noir. The flavors began to elevate even further at this point in the meal as the wines and dishes became more bold. I'm not one to enjoy cheese for dessert but the 12-month-aged Mimolette with preserved blackberry and hazelnut praline paired with a Silver Oak 2018 Cab was perfection; in fact, it deserved a standing ovation. Experimenting with food and wine in these ways not only pleases the palate but heightens the senses, forcing you to slow down and pay attention to the flavors and ingredients presented. Enjoying a meal like this with friends who also appreciate food and wine uplifts the meal even more. Look out for future events similar to this at Amaya. Opening Day at the Del Mar Fairgrounds There's always something fun to do in San Diego and July brings many locals and tourists to the Del Mar Fairgrounds for the horse races. Opening day comes with a fashion show filled with stylish partygoers showing off their best hats. Betting on a horse or two and watching it win, or lose, is exhilarating; either way, you'll find yourself screaming with the crowd hoping the horse you bet on can hear your cheers. Friends gather to people-watch while others dance the night away at a multitude of parties. I've said this many times before, San Diego is infused with a food scene and fun factor that overflows. Those who call it home are lucky ducks and those who visit can expect a fantastic vacation. If you haven't traveled here yet, what are you waiting for?

  • 2 Nights on Amalfi Coast, Italy

    There's no place on earth like the Amalfi Coast of Italy. The striking beauty of this coastline transports visitors into a constant state of awe. Lemongroves, vineyards, and villas dot the lush mountains overlooking the glistening sea below. While most of the towns themselves are overridden by tourists who are dropped off by the droves of ferries that bring them in throughout the day, once you figure out how to avoid them (visit the various towns early in the day or later in the evenings) then you'll have mastered the art of vacationing here. The level of beauty is unparalleled to other places on our planet- this is a land of sea and sophistication. You can never be too dressed up, there are infinite refined dining options in the most elegant settings. The food scene is divine with Michelin-starred restaurants and local, less-known ones who prepare seafood artfully. Driving Amalfi's windy, narrow roads is an adventure and not for the faint of heart yet cruising here is one of the highlights when visiting. Just keep in mind, that if you take full advantage of the luxurious lifestyle here, it is one of the most expensive cities in the world during peak season. Save up, do it right, and you'll never regret a Euro spent. Day One: Start your day discovering Vietri Sul Mare You'll instantly fall madly in love with this tiny town filled with locals shopping in the local cheese, fish, and meat shops. The only language you'll hear is Italian, Vietri is one of the only towns on the Amalfi Coast with few tourists as it's on the most southern tip of the Amalfi stretch. My mind quickly meandered to spending long summers here, breathing in the sea air and the colors of the world-famous pottery. It's on my list to return for a longer visit to live like the locals amidst a magical cliffside. I loved it so much that it inspired me to enroll in Italian classes again as soon as we returned to the States. I dream of looking out my balcony to wish my new friends a good morning and strolling to the caffe for a cappuccino as I mingle with my neighbors. This is Vietri , it pulls you in. Plant yourself at Riva Beach Club Just a six-minute drive from the village of Vietri , a secluded, exclusive beach club awaits those who want to bask in the sun with their toes in the sea without sharing the beach with many others. The entrance to the club is perched so high above sea level that you'll need to take two elevators to access it. The price tag for sun beds and umbrellas is steep enough to ensure you'll have the beach club practically to yourself. It's worth every penny. We were transported to Paradise for five and a half glorious hours. Linger over lunch at Riva Restaurant What truly makes the club's restaurant appealing is its stunning views. The food is hit or miss with the appetizers being the biggest draw. Our lunch wasn't bad but it also didn't blow us away. Regardless, we dined along the Italian seaside, and couldn't complain much. pros: serene setting, attentive service cons: we tried four pasta dishes and three of them were overly salted must order: the caprese salad, panbiscotto di grano (wheat bread, tomatoes, olives, and buffalo mozzarella cheese), and homemade cavatelli pasta with zucchini Take the breathtaking, heart-dropping, windy drive to Amalfi We're road trip experts having driven through every terrain in multiple countries. Yet no amount of driving experience will prepare you for the restrictive, windy roads that barely fit two cars as large buses take wide turns into your lane leaving you saying a prayer. I thought driving in Napoli was rough, but driving along the Amalfi Coast during the season is straight-up Russian roulette. The excitement on the road coupled with the jaw-dropping views is beyond exhilarating. Just drive slowly. The town square of Amalfi is not my personal Italy favorite, oozing with tourists and kitschy shops. We spent thirty minutes meandering the small center and left craving to gaze at the magnificent coast from our hotel. Amalfi is about the sea and the landscape, not its city center. Enjoy dinner at a Michelin Starred restaurant If you're in Amalfi, you might as well splurge on a fantastic meal. There are many incredible dining options but an extravagant meal at Glicine in the iconic Santa Caterina Hotel is a must. The level of service is exactly in line with what you would expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant, formal and doting, but not stuffy. The floor staff is as attentive and accommodating as the kitchen. Guests can dine on the open veranda with sweeping views while listening to a live piano performance and can choose from an a la carte menu or a two-course to five-course meal. The menu changes regularly but always focuses on Mediterranean flavors. We experienced an unforgettable four-course meal. pros: majestic setting, a lot of flexibility with tasting menu options- a vegetarian and vegan tasting menu is offered and not everyone at the table needs to order from the same menu or the same amount of courses cons: absolutely none, glicine delivers perfection must order: i highly suggest that you experience their tasting menu Day Two: hire a gozzo to take you along the coast The best way to soak in the breathtaking coast and beat the massive tourist crowds is to spend a day at sea. Book a gozzo, a traditional Italian wooden boat, with a captain, to guide you through an incredible day at sea filled with swimming stops in aqua bays, docking in any of the Amalfi Coast towns that catch your eye, and pointing out landmarks that you'd never know to look for on your own. A highlight of our excursion was swimming near Lover's Arch, which our son bravely climbed and then jumped off, taking our boat into Pandora's Cave and watching bats fly past us, and boating past remarkable bridges and villas owned by the rich and famous like Sophia Loren's former summer mansion. On a boat, you'll pass by, swim up to, or stroll the towns of Atrani , Minori , Maiori , Furore , Praiano , Ravello , and Positano . There is absolutely no better way to explore the Amalfi Coast . Make a stop in Minori for a visit to Italy's most famous Patisserie When our captain told us that the most famous pasticceria in Italy is on Minori , we shouted "halt" and disembarked our gozzo more quickly than an ice cube could melt under the Italian summer sun. Sal de Riso is a gallery of fine desserts and homemade gelato in creative flavors. The bakery is so visually appealing, you'll have a hard time leaving. There are too many tempting options to choose from. After a struggle to decide what to order, we opted for gelato - truly one of the most delicious gelatos we have ever eaten. I ordered half a portion of hazelnut and a half portion of chocolate with almonds and olive oil. Perfetto! Splurge on a luxurious lunch at Carlino Restaurant in Il San Pietro Hotel , Positano As I've mentioned, Amalfi Coast is not inexpensive. But if you're willing to splurge there are endless opportunities to fulfill the most exclusive and luxurious experiences that will make your visit extremely memorable. If you're in a boat, you can pull up to the hotel's beach club to be escorted to the restaurant on the bottom of the cliff, carved into a remote nook, with breathtaking views, delicious food, and the sensation that you have a little piece of heaven to yourself. pros: the location is surreal, only the freshest ingredients are used, and incredible seafood cons: they add a 10% gratuity for non-residents, the only place in Amalfi (that we visited) to do so. must order: the grilled fish plate is outstanding- an assortment of seafood caught that morning, the mozzarella and grilled vegetable salad, and the burrata salad Get back on your gozzo and cruise along the coast After a big meal and a couple of glasses of wine, you'll be ready to sprawl on your gozzo and lazily let the afternoon pass you by as you count the never-ending watch towers and castles that line the coast. Wrap your trip up with an epic dinner at Ristorante Torre Normanna This former Medieval tower has been transformed into an incredible restaurant that features local ingredients and fresh seafood. There are various levels to dine at - the upper restaurant is inside the tower and a lower, outdoor terrace overlooking the water for those who want to dine al fresco. Few know that for 600 Euros per couple, the restaurant offers a seven-course meal, that includes a welcome drink and a bottle of champagne at its Ulysses Table, a secluded table for two perched right above the sea with no one in sight. This is the ultimate romantic experience. Dining with your loved one on a candle-lit table sprinkled with rose petals as you savor dishes that are so perfectly made, bursting with freshness, while watching the sun dazzle the sky ... no words. pros: this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience cons: the tasting menu serves a lot of food. come very hungry. must order: there was no menu to choose from- dishes are made based on your food preferences, everything with seafood was superb Day Three: Explore Ravello Start your day with a delightful breakfast at Caruso, A Belmond Hotel Finding this property can be a bit tricky as Google Maps wrongly alerts you to have arrived at your destination prematurely. Climb the mountain to the highest point, and there, you shall find this once monastery converted into a luxury, five-star hotel that floats in the clouds with the most spectacular views. Breakfast is served on the grand terrace, served formally on the finest china with multiple staff members at your service. The menu offers a variety of juices and breakfast items, albeit expensive, but you're paying for the spectacular setting. pros: extraordinary property with mesmerizing vistas cons: breakfast is 55 euros per person, we weren't told that a sprawling buffet was included in the cost so make sure to make a note of this must order: crepes with jam and whipped cream and poached eggs with potatoes Roam around Ravello Imagine, a little village perched way up high in the mountains, 1,200 feet above the sea, in a place so remote that most tourists are deterred from visiting, a town where wildflowers grow effortlessly as they almost touch the clouds, and hidden alleys lead to colorful caffes and shops; a place where Mother Nature's best work is immaculately displayed for all those who make the trek to see. To say Ravello is picturesque is an understatement. You'll have to make the trip to grasp how magical it is. Where to Stay: Hotel Miramalfi Prices along the Amalfi Coast are outrageous during the season. When you need to book multiple rooms, you'll especially find yourself gawking at the price tag. We were thrilled to find a five star, accommodation with a private shuttle service into town, a beach club exclusively for its guests, welcome drinks on arrival, a bottle of champagne and cookies awaiting in your room, and a balcony with the most iconic Amalfi views that you could dream of for a "reasonable price". I squirm at calling the rates reasonable but by Amalfi terms, if you want to stay in a five-star hotel, the rates are certainly better than other five-star properties. pros: gorgeous views throughout, abundant breakfast with an attractive buffet, ocean view balconies in rooms, attentive staff, modern decor, private beach club cons: the elevator can barely fit two people, i opted to take the stairs again Amalfi is less than a ninety-minute drive from Naples . Next time you consider traveling to Italy , fly into Naples (check out my Naples itinerary HERE ) and drive to one of the most beautiful places in the world.

  • 3 Nights in London, England

    Spending the past three days in London significantly reminded us of our years living as New Yorkers . Minus the landmark royal buildings, we found the two cities to have many uncanny resemblances in their architecture, the characteristics of the neighborhoods, and the flooded sidewalks. Some notable differences between the two cities are that although London is also heavily populated, you barely hear any cars honking and rarely see litter on the streets. Also, unlike the Big Apple, London has managed its homeless population. Finally, London is even more cosmopolitan than New York drawing a massive international crowd with more languages spoken than any other city; we hardly heard the adorable British accent we were looking forward to lovingly mimicking. While Manhattan is known for its sweltering summer heat, we didn't pack in preparation for London's grey summer skies and low temperatures. The unexpected chilly weather, however, allowed for easy walking through the city, walking eight to ten miles a day is a cinch when you're not hot and the sun isn't beating you down. With iconic landmarks, a rich royal history, a diverse culture leading to available global cuisine, great shopping, and easy walkability, a visit to London guarantees a wonderful vacation experience. Where to Stay: You’ll love the design, amenities, and location of this swanky hotel decorated by Tom Dixon. Its Waterloo location is central to many of the main tourist attractions and neighborhoods you’ll want to visit while in London . From Sea Containers  we were able to walk everywhere  from our hotel. Yet we also loved being on the other side of the river with less foot traffic and no swarms of tourists in our way as we ventured out to start our days or when we returned to unwind from a long day of explorations. The family suite is quite large with two bathrooms, a dining room table that seats ten, and stunning city views. In addition, they have a fully stocked gym, two highly acclaimed bars, a great restaurant, filtered water stations on each floor, spacious elevators, friendly staff, and major perks like having a peloton delivered to rooms! Day One: Walk and Walk and Walk Walking is the best way to get to know a city. Sea Containers Hotel is primely located to launch you straight to Westminister Bridge leading you to many Monarch masterpieces. No trip to London would be complete without an up-close viewing of the Westminster Abby to appreciate its exquisite architecture, magnificent structural detail, and iconic Big Ben Clock Tower .  From there continue towards Trafalgar Square , passing by other historic buildings and sculptures of the many men who contributed to Britain. At the square, have a seat by the fountain to people watch or perhaps you’ll be lucky to catch a concert. Continue your journey towards Buckingham Palace, pause, and imagine the lives of English royalty for a moment or two. Check the changing of the guard schedule in advance to watch this traditional shift change live in action. Next, cut through Green Park and admire the rows of massive trees and interesting art installations. Then walk to Piccadilly Street, most famous for its historic hotels and shopping which will get you to Hyde Park and eventually to the upscale Mayfair part of town. This is a great walking itinerary that weaves you through different neighborhoods and will leave you with a great feel for each. An Untraditional High-Tea at Sketch Skip the formalities and reserve a table at Sketch for an unconventional high tea in a whimsical setting at the hotel’s Gallery Room. A string trio plays classical music while a well-dressed young crowd sips champagne and nibbles on finger sandwiches in a trendy atmosphere that exudes nouveau riche. Bask in the Bathrooms The bathrooms at Sketch are a work of art, an immersive experience like no other. This modernistic art installation of egg-shaped toilet pods is the perfect Instagram backdrop for those captures that go viral. Transport to the Times of Tower of London   Book a self-guided audio tour and travel in time to the Medieval days of betrayal and treachery under King Henry VIII. The tour describes in detail all the royal buildings behind the fortress walls and invites you to enter each one to view original rooms, crown collections, torture devices, and more! No other tour we’ve ever been on has provided unlimited access like this one. This is a great tour for all ages. Chinatown Many major cities have a Chinatown and it's always colorful, lively, and fun to visit wherever you find yourself. London's Chinatown is no exception. Include walking through on your walking itinerary. Leicester Square & Covent Garden Leicester Square, known for its theaters, casinos, and centrally located park attracts many visitors; the energy was contagious on the day we visited. Equally so, Covenant Garden was filled with excitement as street performers entertained at every corner and cafes donned packed patios. Satiate Your Sweet Tooth at Ben's Cookies , Covent Garden This tiny cookie hut emits tantalizing scents of freshly baked cookies that wrap around Covent Garden’s open-air market. To find their shop follow your nose and you’ll be led to a long cue of others waiting for their chance at these divine creations served right out of the oven. Dishoom for Dinner, That's an Order Celebrity Chef Naved Nasir brings together the food of Iran and Bombay in one of London’s hottest tickets. If you don’t reserve in advance, expect a line of at least an hour by 5:00 pm. Unlike many restaurants, the buzz is certainly worthy in this large, lively establishment that truly perfects the balance of flavors and spices in each dish. We ordered vegetable samosas, plain naan, garlic naan, the Pau Bhaji (mashed vegetables with hot, homemade buns), gunpowder potatoes (smashed grilled potatoes with aromatic seeds and herbs), jackfruit biryani, a bowl of greens with chili and limes, and the house special black daal that is famously cooked for twenty-four hours to arrive at rich and bold flavors Your mouth will burst with joy at the harmonious marriage of ingredients in each dish. Don’t worry about British etiquette, this meal is meant to be eaten with your hands as you dip naan into everything possible. Toast the Day If you follow this itinerary you will log ten miles of walking by 6:00 pm. This deserves a toast! Sip on craft cocktails at Lyaness , known as one of London's best bars with many awards under its belt. The metallic, holographic menu will catch your attention instantly but as you read through the menu you'll be blown away by the creativity of the cocktails. The Goose & Gander (Grey Goose, Szechuan sauce, and soda) is fantastic. Day Two: Begin your Day with Breakfast at the Hotel The breakfast buffet served in the lobby restaurant serves an abundant spread of hot foods, pastries, cheeses, fruit, etc... along with a menu of made-to-order eggs. However, the offerings remained the same for the three mornings we ate there making the meal redundant and less enticing. They brew delicious coffee though, and they have cream for coffee which is the one ingredient I missed most in Italy! TIP: venture out for breakfast if you can! Ride the London Eye for a Bird's Eye View Set your fear of heights aside to see a bird's eye view of London and catch a ride on the London Eye . At 443 feet tall at its highest point, it held the title of the world’s largest Ferris Wheel until just a few years ago when China built a taller one. The guide on the speaker will point out some significant buildings and provide context to the majestic view below during the thirty-minute ride. Buy tickets in advance for as early in the day as possible. Walk to Covent Garden and Neal's Yard Covent Garden is a large neighborhood, make sure to explore it to grasp each section's unique charm. The northern section is dotted with vintage shops and mom-and-pop shops. In this part of town, you'll also find Neal's Yard , a hidden nook off a side street filled with restaurants, cafes, and high-end shops. Do you think you've spotted a Banksy in Neil's Yard ? Think again. Bambi, a famous local artist, painted this as an ode to Princess Di imagining her coming down to her grandkids and whispering to them "You can be as naughty as you want, just don't get caught". Have a Delicious Lunch in One of London's Best The Barbary While researching where to dine in London , The Barbary  kept showing up as one of London’s best restaurants featuring North African cuisine with Israeli influences. Main seating is around a horseshoe bar looking into the kitchen's grill that pumps out masterpieces while music pours into the room creating a fun atmosphere that makes you want to dance while watching your food prepared. During our visit, we ordered Moroccan cigars stuffed with whitefish, two orders of falafel ( because they were that  good), grilled chicken, labneh with grilled eggplant, Za’aluk (a sauce of tomatoes and grilled eggplant), hummus, grilled halloumi, harissa, zhoug, and of course Jerusalem bagel and naan to wipe our plates clean. We left singing songs of praise. Hitch a Taxi to East London Hoxton Square is surrounded by eateries from around the world satiating any of your international cravings. The hipster hood pops with color on its vibrant streets where you'll find indie art galleries, funky shops, and loads of coffee shops. Trendy and young, Hoxton bursts with creativity and seamlessly flows into Shoreditch, another great part of London to discover. Brick Lane Indian specialized shops, markets, and restaurants make Brick Lane the ultimate destination for those who love anything India-related. Some restaurants had small crowds waiting to be seated, a good sign that wonderful, authentic cuisine awaits inside. As you walk through, take note of the neighborhood’s charming characteristics – colorful graffiti, residents’ names spelled with scrabble game pieces, Uber eats drivers lined up on their scooters waiting to be beckoned, and locals hanging out on the sidewalks. Shop Local at Spitalfields Market Artisans line up their booths in this massive market that showcases local talent across many genres. If you have room in your suitcase to take gifts back home, this is the place to shop for unique items. You’ll find handmade jewelry, gorgeous hand-embroidered scarves, hand-painted coasters, ceramic dishes, distinctive clothing, and loads of other interesting items that make great gifts. Even if you don’t have room in your luggage to shop, like me, you’ll at least be inspired by the talent surrounding you.   Spitalfields Akin to the East Village in the Big Apple , there is a young energy of hipsters weaving in and out of the side streets, sipping on their oat milk latte, as they stroll the streets on a Sunday. Vintage stores and artist-run shops make up most of the neighborhood along with pubs and diners. You’ll find all sorts of fun stuff for sale like hand-painted Doc Martens or insanely priced coffee mugs. Don’t let the unpretentious appearance sway you into thinking you can stumble upon a deal here. Price tags are steep, albeit everything sold is extremely unique. The City (aka Financial District) St. Paul's Cathedral prominently stands in the heart of the City of London. At first glance, you may confuse it with the state capital building. Walking through the heart of the city gives you a sense of modern skyscrapers juxtaposed with Medieval alleys and the precious preservation of old and new. Caffeine Fix at CrossTown Famous for their award-winning doughnuts, CrossTown also makes dreamy lattes and smoothies like the berry bounce smoothie with blueberry, raspberry, mango & papaya. After a long day of walking eight miles, this Waterloo cafe gives a great boost. Libations at Lyaness The cocktails at Lyaness are so good, we returned for a second evening. This time I sipped on their Doc Americano mixed with Tanqueray, carrot vermouth, Campari, and honey soda. You cannot go wrong with any of their incredibly creative cocktails. Dine with a View at OXO Tower Restaurant, Bar, and Brasserie As you enter the rooftop lobby, you have OXO Brasserie to your left and OXO Restaurant to your right.  We opted for a fine dining experience in the restaurant with views overlooking the River Thames and St. Paul’s Cathedral .  I knew we were in good hands starting with my well-made smoked cucumber and grilled pineapple margarita,. Although portions are small, flavors are big. The beef fillet and scallops were beautifully prepared and the deconstructed chocolate cheesecake made for an especially satisfying ending to a great meal. Day Three: Continue Your Discovery of London Along the River Thames Walk With an Appetite   Walk along the river through Bankside, stop at one of its many cafes and stroll through this waterside neighborhood admiring the art and architecture. Binge on the Treats in Borough Yards Keep walking towards Borough Yards , a stunningly designed indoor market of fine foods and goods. The rounded wooden hallways leading to the shops make for a gallery-like experience. If you’re missing a football match while shopping, they have you covered in the outdoor seating with a designated screen for games. Browse the Stalls at Borough Market Essentially an outdoor farmer’s market, but way cooler since it’s in London, Borough Market has everything locals need to stock their kitchens with fresh produce, baked goods, cheeses, fish, and meats. The temptation to buy it all will kick in, restraint is not required. Make Ethical Decisions and Buy Tony's Chocolonely This Dutch-based chocolate company is committed to eradicating slavery in the cacao industry and Brits are obsessed with the concept and flavor. The dark chocolate almond and sea salt bar along with the dark chocolate with creamy hazelnut bar are a delightful guilt-free pleasure. As the English say, "for pudding"have yourself a chocolate treat! London  made me a tad nostalgic for my days in the Big Apple, reminding me of my life as a former New Yorker living in a bustling, diverse city spending most of my days walking to my destination and having many fantastic ethnic restaurants available to my every whim. I didn’t expect the two cities to so closely resemble one another making London  very familiar and easy to navigate. NYC is a bit more rough around the edges- louder, dirtier, and more ridden with crime yet I love it with its imperfections and oddly a three-night stay in London  made me appreciate it more than I have since leaving three years ago. After 3 nights in Naples , 2 nights in Amalfi , 7 nights in Santa Maria di Leuca , 7 nights in Valle d’Itria , and 3 nights in London, I can honestly write that San Diego  is the best place to call home.

  • 7 Nights Northern Puglia, Italy

    The notable differences between the south and north of Puglia will immediately strike you. While the southern region of Salento gains points for its untouched purity, simplicity, lack of foreign tourists, and its slightly "rough around the edges" charm, the north of Apulia (the Italian name for Puglia) is more heavily populated by tourists, a touch more sophisticated, and more easily manageable for Americans who don't speak Italian since most Italians speak English in this region. Valle d'Itria is packed with bustling towns, infinite restaurants specializing in seafood dishes, and beaches at every turn. Olive trees dominate the landscape with the Adriatic Sea on the horizon. The temperatures while still high, are cooler in the north. Both areas of Italy's boot heel operate at a decadently slow place. While the food in both regions is exceptional, I cannot think of a place on our planet that has continuously and consistently fed us so well as Valle d'Itria. We were convinced each meal was the best one until the next meal came. Our trip unexpectedly turned into a food tour, immersing us in the local foods and as a result, the culture of the people. Below is the ideal seven-night itinerary in this glorious part of Italy , perfectly balanced with lazy lido days and sightseeing and always with tantalizing Puglian cuisine. Where to Stay: We booked a villa in Monopoli, located in the Valle d'Itria region of northern Apulia through The Thinking Traveller , a leading concierge vacation rental company that repeatedly holds the title of "best villa rental service in the world" by Conde Naste. This is our third time renting a home through them and each time we've thought that we struck on the most incredible property, the next one somehow manages to outdo the other. The rental service has a portfolio of stunning vacation rentals that are impeccably maintained and completely stocked for your vacation needs. No detail is left overlooked from being greeted by the villa owners who always gift guests with an abundance of local treats, produce, and wines to a 24/7 concierge team who addresses any need that may arise. Our assigned concierge, Joanna, worked with me on planning our trip for ten months. She was always at my disposal to answer questions and make reservations as needed. With Thinking Traveller on our side we have always been able to arrive at our destination and not think about or plan a single thing. Thanks to their services, we enjoyed the most epic eight days in northern Puglia with a vacation that balanced beach days and explorations, one filled with great meals throughout the days, and the most stunning and centrally located Puglian property surrounded by hundreds of acres of olive trees, an original trullo on site (traditional cone roofed hut of the region), and breathtaking grounds. Day One: Check Into Your Villa Unpack, pour yourself a glass of local wine, and explore the grounds of your temporary home for the week. Consider hiring a chef to prepare your dinner as you ease into your first vacation day in a new location. Our chef, Annalisa, spoiled us with a spread of antipasti that included a variety of local cheeses, a Caprese salad, local pane (bread), and a sample of focaccias. For our first course, we enjoyed orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta popular in Apulia ) followed by a perfectly grilled sea bass topped with olives and roasted potato slices (I'm stealing this recipe!) sided with a salad. To end our meal, she served us with her homemade tiramisu. What an ideal way to launch the new week! Day Two: We hired Annalisa for the duration of our stay to prepare breakfast for us daily. Compared to the United States, hiring a cook is more affordable in Apulia. Our highlight of this morning's meal was the omelet she prepared stuffed with ricotta and mint. We've never had mint in our eggs and loved being introduced to this delightful flavor combination! Find a Lido You Love Coccaro Beach Club is my idea of perfection. This luxury lido has everything you can hope for - sophistication, doting beachside service, great cocktails, massage rooms (the scalp massage treatment is divine), and a clear, aqua coast. For the first time in our eight days in Puglia, we heard English spoken by both Americans and the staff. I missed practicing my Italian like we did in southern Puglia but I also loved lounging here for hours and being flawlessly catered to in the ways Americans on vacation like to be. Lunch at the lido Their "ciccio pizza" with mozzarella, salmon, and pickled zucchini strings deserves an award. I have nothing else to report. Pool Time at the Vacation Rental If you're going to splurge on a beautiful vacation property, you should aim to enjoy it as much as possible. Heading to the rental when the sun peaks is a great time to swim, cool off, play lawn games, and relax before dinner. Dine on Delightful Regional Fare for Dinner La Locanda sul Porto is the only restaurant during our entire stay in Italy filled with diners by 7:30 pm, which is usually an early start time for dinner by Italian standards. As we dined we witnessed many walk-ins being turned away by the host stand because the night was booked. Dozens walked over to make a reservation for the next evening. Once we received our dishes we understood what the buzz was all about. Not only is the restaurant beautifully appointed, but its menu of mostly seafood delivers dishes to die for. The bruschetta sampler plate was pure fun to share allowing us to experience the different flavors that work so well on top of a slice of bread: tuna, basil pesto, mozzarella, almonds; salmon, grilled pepper, mustard mayo, and honey; red prawns, spinach, sun-dried tomato cream, and hazelnuts; prawns, ricotta, courgettes. The octopus and potato salad with red onion mousse and black olive powder had me counting my blessings. Their pasta is exceptional and uniquely prepared like the spaghettoni with plum tomatoes, aubergine pesto, swordfish, and toasted almonds. The kitchen wins guests over with the wow factor delivered in each bite. Day Three: Wake up to a lovely table loaded with various bites, frothy cappuccinos, and delicious rustico stuffed with Formaggio. When hiring a chef in Italy, breakfast will quickly become your favorite meal. Plant Yourself on Your Property: What's the point of renting a perfect vacation home if you don't spend a worthwhile amount of time enjoying it? We were thrilled to have our friends from San Diego join us today for three nights. The entire day was spent with them poolside, eating a huge alfresco lunch, getting massages under a five-hundred-year-old olive tree, and lounging on hammocks. Attend an Italian Festival Italians love their festivals! During summer you're guaranteed to stumble upon a celebration of one of the many Catholic saints. This evening, Fasano held a holy mass and the return of the sacred figures to the church. Locals poured into the streets to walk along the market and hear Italian singer, Noemi, perform. Inside courtyards, friends played chess, and residents people watched off their balconies. As the sun set, the town lit up with festival lights while bars and caffes welcomed guests to watch the football match between Croatia and Italy . You'll love living like locals while in Puglia! La Locanda D'Martume specializes in Apulian dishes and warm hospitality. We were greeted with welcome prosecco and treated to a mid-meal plate of cucumbers to cleanse our palates. I ate one of the most memorable pasta dishes I have ever eaten: homemade ravioli stuffed with violet potatoes and topped with fresh tuna, mushrooms, and toasted almonds. The unique combination of ingredients resulted in unforgettable flavors. Day Four: Since I am the cook in our family often preparing three meals each day, I cherish the moments others prepare a meal for me. While on vacation, I vow never to step foot in the kitchen allowing myself a proper break from the constant meal prep. Annalisa's breakfasts were a welcomed start to our day. I've never eaten as many fruits and vegetables for breakfast as I have in Italy . Meander Through Martina Franca A popular destination in Valle d'Itria , Martina Franca , founded in the 1300s celebrates both the old and new masterfully. Baroque buildings stand proudly near modern architecture, the stunning Basilica di San Martino and expansive Piazza Maria Immacolata lead to white-washed alleys with gorgeous gardens and colorful doors. The 17th-century Fountain of the Four Rivers shares space with sculptures erected in the 21st century. Each summer the town hosts a large opera festival; we were fortunate enough to hear an opera singer warming up in his apartment. Walk to the lookout point to enjoy the picturesque landscape covered with farms, vineyards, and trulli. There is a ton to appreciate in this hilltop not-to-be-missed treasure. Fall in Love with Locorotundo Locorotundo will steal your heart. Its meaning is "the round place", named after its circular design that boasts a piazza in its center. Far from the sea, and perched on a hill, it's known as one of Puglia's "prettiest little towns" for its countless whitewashed streets, Baroque remnants, pops of color on doorways and gardens, beautiful churches, and plenty of restaurants. The most notable quality of this town is that it isn't inundated by tourists who foolishly miss having it on their radar. You can expect to get lost roaming the side streets, marveling at the shops, and catching your mind fantasizing about living like an Italian in this magical town. Have Lunch Along a Farm and Amongst Trulli at Trattoria Terra Madre "Farm to table" takes on a new meaning when you dine along the same farm used by the kitchen to prepare your dishes. There is a heavy emphasis on the vegetables grown resulting in fantastic creations. We savored the eggplant cutlet with tomatoes, rocket, and cacioricotta cheese and the troccoli pasta with zucchini flower pesto, fried zucchini, and stracciatella cheese. However, the fried eggs with smoked burrata cream and grilled garden vegetables are a perfect example of how fresh ingredients can be elevated into a majestic realm. Check Out UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alberobello After spending almost three weeks in Italy, you may begin to think that many of its towns look alike. However, Alberbello is like nowhere you've ever been. The city boasts approximately 1,500 original trulli, dry stone huts with conical roofs dated as early as the mid-fourteenth century with many still inhabited. Many roofs have painted symbols on them which held religious or astrological meanings to the dwellers. Despite the heavy tourist load, this town cannot be missed. Dinner in a Hidden Courtyard, Il Cortiletto Upon arrival, you may think twice about this dinner destination. Its unappealing location and unassuming entrance may cause you to reconsider your reservation. Once you enter the courtyard you'll gasp with joy at the charming beauty before you. You must include this incredible restaurant in your Puglian dining journey. While everything was delectable, we especially raved about the Apulian broad beans puree with cornaletti peppers, the roasted pepper flan with garlic, oil, and hot pepper cream, the paccheri pasta with capers, tomatoes, and bread crumbs, and the eggplant parmesan with pasta. The smoked beef fillet topped with blue cheese and mulberries is worth mentioning too. Day Five: Annalisa started our day with fresh fruit, friselle, eggs, and mini homemade panzerotti stuffed with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese along with a variety of three local types of cucumbers and perfectly frothed cappuccinos. Up Your Laziness at Lido Bambu Can you imagine a more lazy activity than lying limp with your toes in the sand as you bask in the sun? Lido Bambu is the perfect place to lose the day doing nothing but lying, swimming, and eating. The beach club's earthy tones deliver a lovely setting, the service is fantastic from the moment you check-in, and the clear waters entice you to swim way beyond the point of getting pruney. Lunch at the Lido We were constantly blown away by how good the food in Apulia is, even at beach clubs. The lunch at Lido Bambu was excellent. Our highlights were the grilled octopus over hand mashed potatoes and the linguine with zucchini and garden-grown lemon although the grilled eggplant topped with fresh tomatoes and the catch of the day were pretty spectacular too. Cook a Meal in Your Villa The produce in Italy is like nowhere else, especially the tomatoes, which are so succulent and sweet. These little nuggets of juicy joy were a part of each of my three meals for the three weeks we spent in Italy and I never grew sick of them. Lucky for us, our friends from San Diego spoiled us with a delicious meal using my favorite Italian vegetable in all the dishes: Caprese salad, bruschetta topped with garden basil and tomatoes, angel hair pasta with homemade tomato sauce, and a delicious cod cooked in tomato and garlic. We lingered over dinner cherishing friendship, long summers in Italy , and the delicious ingredients that made for a perfect meal with good friends and family. Day Six: Breakfast continues to kick off our days happily. Annalisa prepared our daily cappuccinos along with a spread of fresh veggies and fruit with her signature omelets, always prepared with new ingredients. Today she stuffed our eggs with mushrooms and local cheese. Breakfast will never be the same back in San Diego , or perhaps I can continue this new tradition of a breakfast spread filled with healthy options. Lounge at a Lido The beaches of the Adriatic Seas are a big draw to vacationing in Valle d'Itria and you'll want to spend as much time immersed in the aqua waters as possible. Lido Le Palme has everything you'll need for a day at the beach: a delicious restaurant, a luxury boutique, massage treatments, large sunbeds, beachside service, and a private stretch of sand. Enjoy Lunch in Your Swimsuit It's a wonderful luxury to roll off your daybed, put on your flip-flops, and walk over to a shaded restaurant with a menu that has plenty of options. We opted for a chilled glass of local rose wine, a Greek salad, a Margherita pizza, and a pizza topped with roasted tomatoes and burrata cheese. We left extremely satiated and ready to lay on our loungers with the sea breeze on our skin. Dine Inside "Ancient Walls" Every time we eat in Valle d'Itria I say "This is my favorite meal", yet the food keeps getting better with each restaurant we dine in. Tonight, we were blown away by the seafood dishes at Antiche Mura . You'll be instantly impressed as you walk into the stunning setting inside the ancient walls of Polignano a Mare , elegantly dressed to prepare diners for an unforgettable meal. Our sea bream catch of the day grilled with zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, and Bitetto olives blew us away with its simple ingredients and big flavors. The tagliolini pasta with lobster in a fresh tomato sauce was equally outstanding and the breaded grilled calamari was so good that it was devoured in under one minute. A meal here while visiting northern Apulia cannot be missed. Day Seven: Annalisa felt inspired to make us individual mini omelets with zucchini today. Adorable! The cantaloupe on our table was the highlight of our breakfast, gosh the fruit here is so darn good! Explore the Beautiful Towns of Valle d'Itria Pogliano a Mare is one of the more tourist-heavy towns in Puglia you'll visit. Porto Cavallo is the picturesque cove the town is famous for, packed with beachgoers and likely one of the most photographed places in Apulia . When we visited, Red Bull was setting up for a free-fall diving competition, preparing a diving board perched almost one hundred feet from the sea. Stop along the promenade to take in the stunning design of the town, built high upon the cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Then stroll on Via Roma for a lively stretch of shops and restaurants. Prepare yourself, finding a parking spot is very difficult but worth the effort. Get to Know Monopoli With so many breathtaking Puglian towns, it'll amaze you how each has distinctive qualities. Monopoli is one of the largest cities in Valle d'Itria and with its size comes a lot to appreciate. As you enter Monopoli you'll walk past the expansive coast of clear waters leading you into the heart of the city. Like other towns, Monopoli has its fair share of historic churches and ruins, but what makes this town special is how the "old" plays peekaboo with visitors, suddenly appearing at the end of alleys or on the other side of one of the many arches. We spent the most time in Monopoli as it piqued our interest for longer than the other cities mostly for the surprises that awaited at each turn. Load Up on Fuel at Carlo Quinto The charming patio treats guests to ocean views and despite the summer heat, its well-shaded outdoor dining provides a welcomed reprieve from the sun. Make sure to make a reservation in advance, there was a line of eager diners waiting for a table. The food here is simple, fresh, and well-prepared highlighting the region's seafood. The eggplant parmesan and grilled tuna steak hit the spot and recharged me for my continued explorations. Get Lost in "The White City" Ostuni is one of Puglia's most striking cities, perched high on a hill overlooking green pastures and rolling groves of olive trees. You'll have a blast getting lost in the labyrinth of side streets, each leading to delightful surprises of medieval ruins, beautiful gardens, interesting shops, and a plethora of restaurants. For a full perspective of the town's beauty, start your visit at the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel II Viewpoint then make your way towards its city center to aimlessly explore the town's endless stairs, alleys, and arches. Have a Grand Finale Meal at Osteria Ricanatti A culinary journey awaits you in this husband-wife-operated haven for inventive cuisine. Every single morsel is a pleasure for the palate, the overall experience here is simply magnificent. Beginning with the freshly baked bread loaf delivered steaming to your table, you'll be eating through artistic creations that lean on local produce with an emphasis on vegetables. Day Eight : Annalisa prepared our final breakfast at the villa, complete with her signature omelets and frothy cappuccinos. To wrap up our two-week Apulian adventure we dipped the biscotti that Donatella, our chef in Salento , gifted us when we checked out into our cappuccinos. To top it off, Annalisa packed us individualized lunch bags filled with water, juice, fruits, an egg sandwich, and a slice of lemon cake- a perfect ending to an unforgettable trip! Experience Bari, the Capital of Puglia, Before Leaving We weren't sure what to expect of Bari , wrongly assuming the capital would be run down and dirty. Instead, we were extremely surprised by its striking beauty, expansiveness, cleanliness, and juxtaposition of the most modern architecture we have seen in the region to its Citta Vecchia (old town). The capital buildings along the sea are extravagant and well-kept with pride. The alleys in old Bari are filled with chatter and music pouring out of apartment windows. The streets are so narrow that neighbors can practically help one another hang laundry on their prospective clothing lines. Via Arco Basso is lined with locals set up for the day rolling out homemade pastas, mostly orecchiette, available for purchase. Some streets are flooded with tourists while others are dreamily unchartered. Plan to spend several hours here, there is more to do than expected. Last Lunch at Le Nicchie We made a last-minute decision to dine here when our original lunch plan didn't strike our fancy. They were hesitant to seat us without a reservation but luckily they accommodated us with the condition of sitting indoors. We happily accepted the air-conditioned seating arrangements. The vegetable lasagna is out of this world. I want a second helping, now. Get Your Gelato Game on at Antica Gelateria Gentile This gorgeous gelateria nails the entire gelato experience. Upon walking in a host warmly welcomes you and explains all your options. You then head to the cashier to place your order and receive a receipt to take to the gelato bar where your scoops are cheerfully delivered. I ordered a combo of Fior di Latte and Nocciola making for the sweetest send-off I could hope for! Our three-week road trip in southern Italy has been a dream. We started in Naples , a great base to explore Pompeii and Capri. We continued to the Amalfi Coast to discover Sorrento, Vietri, Amalfi, Minori, and Ravello. We then ventured to Santa Maria di Leuca , a perfect place to anchor ourselves to visit the towns of Salve, Ugento, Tricase, Castro, Otranto, Patu, Gallipoli, Ruffano, and Lecce. Finally, we planted ourselves in Monopoli allowing us to tour all the wonderful towns in this article. Driving through these areas of Italy is not for the faint of heart. The roads in Napoli are overridden by mopeds that weave in and out of cars as if they were on a death wish. Consider yourself lucky if you exit the town without killing anyone. Amalfi's roads are equally dangerous except in this part of Italy, consider yourself lucky if you haven't been killed by the aggressive tour buses that speedily make their way through the narrow, curvy roads seemingly willing to knock out anyone in their path. Although in general, driving in Apulia will get your heart rate back down to a healthy pace, there are areas, like in Gallipoli and Bari, where roads are taken over by pedestrians and some streets are so narrow that you'll question whether your car can fit through. Regardless of the fear factor, you'll need a car to get around so take a deep breath, buckle up, and enjoy the ride! Arrivederci Itay! Grazie mille for the warm hospitality, stunning landscape, incredible beaches, outstanding cuisine, and the best summer memories.

  • 7 Nights, Southern Puglia, Italy

    We spent seven incredible nights in the boot's heel of the Italian peninsula's Salento region of Santa Maria di Leuca , a perfect base to explore the south of Italy and its dozens of towns worth visiting. Unlike Napoli and the Amalfi Coast , Puglia is not saturated with tourists, yet. This region of Italy has slowly gained popularity over the past few years and will surely become another tourist magnet, so visit soon. The pace here is unbelievably tranquil, with slow starts to the day ending with late dinners and music pumping into the night from the various summer parties. Ancient ruins mingle with modern architecture amidst the Adriatic and Ionian Seas in the backdrop. There is nothing pretentious about Puglia - even its cuisine is modest, simply leaning on fresh seafood and vegetables. Our best meals were seasoned with olive oil, salt, and pepper allowing the flavors of the fish and veggies to carry the flavors. Senegalese migrants are woven into daily society here, adding to a diversity of people not seen in other Italian cities. The landscape is vast and undeveloped, yet plenty of charming towns are sprinkled throughout the region. The locally grown olives produce a richly flavored olive oil that is addictive, the tomatoes are sweet and juicy (I ate a few handfuls every day), and the round cucumbers called "cocomero" (a cross between a cucumber and a melon) are otherworldly. Some other foods that are unique to Puglia are taralli (small crispy dough rings), friselle (bread-like crackers served bruschetta style), focaccia, caciocavallo, mozzarella, burrata, and stracciatella cheeses, orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta), pettole (fried hot dough balls that come in a variety of ingredient combinations), and pasticciotti (sweet cake filled with cream). These foods are divine, mostly because the ingredients used are ultra-fresh. Our favorite meals were in our villa rental prepared by the warm and outgoing Donatella who spoiled us with these local delicacies and helped my Italian language skills resurface. Shops have odd hours, many honoring the ritualistic siesta, streets are desolate in the evenings until the dinner crew begins to arrive promptly at 8:30 pm, mosquitos join in on the feast (so spray often!) and the aqua waters of the Adriatic Sea can easily rival those in the Maldives any day. There is a raw quality here that cannot be replicated and may not be appreciated by everyone. I wholeheartedly welcomed its pureness, which forced me to speak only Italian for the week, mingle with the locals, and experience a magical Italian summer. Below is a flawless Salento itinerary that will ensure you feel like a local for an entire glorious week and that you'll leave feeling more sedate than ever. Where to Stay: This is our second time renting a villa through The Thinking Traveller , which has been voted the "best villa rental service in the world" for eight consecutive years by Conde Nast . The properties they manage are beautifully maintained and fully stocked with anything you'll need for your stay, with premier services like a private chef, grocery shopping, housekeeping, and a dedicated staff to help with all your needs. We rented Leucasia for our stay in Salento and loved every moment in the villa and on its sprawling property. Day One: Settle into your villa, jump into the pool, and have a sunset dinner prepared by a local chef who will make you traditional Puglian cuisines like orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta) and arrosto (roasted beef) that are out of this world. Donatella was our chef for the week, our best meals in Puglia are the ones she prepared for us. Day Two: Beginning each day with a breakfast feast prepared with garden-fresh ingredients is the best way to start your day. Compared to prices in the USA, hiring a local chef to prepare your meals in Puglia is very reasonable. For our first breakfast, we were spoiled with ricotta stuffed squash blossoms drizzled with balsamic vinegar, an assortment of local cheeses, a homemade Nutella crumb cake, pasticciotti (cream-filled pastries), yogurts, eggs, and fruit. Some of our most special memories were made al fresco, enjoying Donatella's homemade meals. Hit a Lido There are many beaches to choose from in Salento . We relished our day at Le Cinque Vele , a stunning property with impeccable service and the clearest, aqua waters. There is beachside service and although it is a haven for locals, our server, Maximo, from Argentina, spoke English and made our day even more enjoyable with his conversations. The day slipped by too quickly here. Enjoy a lunch with traditional Salento cuisine at the beach club Our expectations were surpassed at the beach club's restaurant. Each ingredient used to prepare our meals was top-notch and regional to Salento ; we even hand-selected the sea bass we wanted to be grilled. Delizioso! Dine in a Castle at Chef's Table,   Castello di Ugento Il Tempo Nuovo I have mixed reviews on this dining experience. The restaurant is in a seventeenth-century castle, in a romantic setting with a promising menu. Upon arrival, we were given an informative tour of the castle and then seated at the Chef's table which provided us with an up close and intimate view of the chef and his team managing the dishes and giving each plate a high level of attention to detail. The dishes are artfully displayed and are prepared with a unique combination of ingredients. Sadly, we were not impressed by the resulting flavors. The true highlights are the setting and the voyeuristic opportunity to see a fine dining kitchen at work. Castello di Ugento Il Tempo Nuovo is known as one of the best restaurants in the region with wonderful reviews, you may love it... I'm a bit of a food snob. Day Three: Each morning, Donatella impressed us with a new regional breakfast dish. For breakfast on day three, she proudly prepared a "pizza" with eggs and zucchini. Seeing her face light up with pride as we praised her for her tasty homemade meals, started our days off warm and fuzzy. Explore the Coastal Towns on the Way to Otranto A day trip along the coast is a wonderful way to get to know Salento . A drive from Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto takes approximately one hour, longer of course with stops to discover some towns along the way. Tricase Porto & Tricase: The port has a small promenade along the sea with a colorful marina and plenty of swimming holes. It makes for a cute, quick stop. I recommend veering off the coast and driving six minutes inland to Tricase , which boasts a fortress, a baroque church, a piazza with historic landmarks, and plenty of alleys to get lost in. In Tricase , a visit to Martinucci i s a must. The local bakery chain is tucked inside the walls of The Castello Gallone , a former fortress built in the 14th century, and makes a delicious caffe leccese (an espresso shot with ice and a touch of almond syrup). A little further north along the coastal route is the city of Castro , a fairly large town facing the Adriatic Sea towards Corfu and Albania. Castro has a 12th-century cathedral and the remains of a 10th-century Byzantine church. It's fascinating to see the bars, restaurants, and shops integrated into the historic landmarks while integrating the sea. Otranto is another lovely coastal town with popular beaches and plenty of history. It is known to be the easternmost part of Italy and one can see the coast of Albania on a clear day. There is a lively stretch along the promenade dotted with restaurants and cafes and plenty more dining options in the town center enclosed by medieval walls. For history buffs, there is Aragonese Castle built in the 15th century, Santa Maria Annunziata Cathedra l built in the 12th century, and a clock tower built in 1799. The cathedral is famous for having one of the world's largest floor mosaics you can walk on! It's fun to get lost in the narrow streets and alleys especially once you realize you are walking through ancient ruins that hug the crystal blue waters of a popular beach destination. Lunch & learn ... Our villa concierge team recommended we make a lunch reservation at ArborVitae . We learned here that some fish on the menu in Puglia are frozen and not always served fresh from the sea. This disappointing new information helped us when we ordered seafood in future restaurants. We chose only the dishes prepared with freshly caught fish of the day: yellowtail carpaccio a whole grain orecchiette with sea bass, and burrata with grilled vegetables and the beef filet. While the garden setting was quaint, and the service was friendly, we didn't love our meal - everything was just short of the wow factor we experienced in other Italian restaurants. Treat yourself to Gelato Pasticceria Merola This gelato shop is a stunning display of creamy gelato and decadent pastries and makes the creamiest and dreamiest gelato. I selected my favorite flavor, nocciola (hazelnut), and cherished every spoonful. Dine with the locals at Rua de li travaj Our dinner reservation was at 7:30 pm, early by Italian standards. By 8:30 pm the restaurant was packed with Italians. We were the only tourists dining here, a sure sign that the food was promising. Although we were unimpressed by the croquettes that were a bit dry or the traditional "la Scurddijata" dish of peas and chickpeas that was once a meal for peasants, we did enjoy the grilled beef and simple pasta with pomodoro and shaved ricotta. The highlight for us was sipping the nine-euro bottle of local wine surrounded by animated Italians. Day Four: Today's breakfast included rustica (a savory stuffed dough) with bechamel sauce and tomatoes and friselline all 'olio (little bread-like crackers) topped with tomatoes and basil. Donatella outdid herself again. By this third breakfast meal, I started thinking of ways to lure her to San Diego . Charter a boat with Sea Luxury Yachts and spend the day at sea I strongly recommend booking a boat for the day and enjoying Puglia's coast from the sea. There is no better way to spend the day than jumping into the crystal blue water at your will, sipping wine, and eating incredibly fresh local cuisine, then jumping back into the waters to explore caves and continuing this pattern on repeat all day long. This company delivers impeccable service, leaving no details overlooked. Not only were we fed like royalty, but we were also generously given a bottle of what we were told was the healthiest olive oil in the world along with a variety of digestivi (a sweet liquor) in an abundance of flavors including artichoke and limoni (my favorite) to sample. They had a variety of water toys for us (paddle boards, a floating dock, noodles, snorkels, and water scooter jets) and truly did everything to make our day at sea unforgettable. The crew of four catered to our every need including anchoring often to swim in the most incredible, translucent bays. Wrap the day with a fantastic dinner at Trattoria Il Borghetto Il Borghetto has the best pettole (fried dough balls) in Puglia and the most sensational seafood we have eaten since we hit the peninsula. We savored every bite of each dish (the grilled swordfish, the grilled prawns, the grilled vegetables, the seafood linguine pasta, and the fried seafood) and wiped our plates clean. As usual, we were the first to arrive and by 8:30 pm the courtyard was filled with locals. Day Five: For our fourth breakfast meal, Donatella pampered us with a potato and asparagus frittata and a spinach and ricotta pizza with a spread of tomatoes, olives, and fruit. She takes breakfast to a new level. Throughout the meal, I kept plotting ways to convince her to live with us in the States. Stroll the Streets of Santa Maria di Leuca This coastal town sits on the southernmost point of Salento's peninsula where the Adriatic and Ionian seas cross paths. It is known as a summer destination for wealthy Italians who want to enjoy its many beautifully pristine beaches. During our seven-night visit, each summer evening was filled with parties, concerts, and even fireworks. The promenade stretches far with many spots to jump in the pristine water and lidos with beach service. Colorful villas line the streets with ruins interspersed to highlight the old and new. Of all the southern Puglia towns, this one captures vacation mode best. Have a seaside lunch in Lo Scalo The seventeen-minute drive to Lo Scalo from Santa Maria di Leuca along the coastal route is beautiful but arriving at this hidden gem is the real treat. Perched above rocky cliffs with clear aqua swimming holes, this seafood restaurant is visually attractive and makes a stellar lunch. Disco. The burrata salad over tomato carpaccio, cod croquettes with mint and tomato gazpacho, ravioli stuffed with burrata and topped with pureed squash, and the grilled lobster kept us talking about our meal all day. Discover the magic of Gallipoli Peruse the island's perimeter overlooking the Ionian Sea and stroll inside the city walls. This picturesque island is not to be missed when traveling to southern Italy . The way the old city, comprised of churches, a castle, and one of Italy's oldest libraries, is woven into the new city is quite remarkable. The surrounding promenade is lined with bars and restaurants that overlook the sea, while Corso Roma (the main street tucked inside the city), is bustling with activity along its narrow road that connects to little alleys filled with striking architecture, many of which have gorgeous garden settings. Gallipoli is meant to be explored, savored, and cherished; it is truly a unique landscape. Reserve a table at La Vinaigrette for a sunset dinner The setting here is elegant and impressive from the moment you walk in. The indoor dining room is vast and beautifully decorated. The day's fresh catches are displayed as soon as you enter the restaurant, highlighting the fresh menu that awaits. Upstairs is the outdoor terrace overlooking the sea. Featuring seafood, the food is delectable, and is prepared raw, fried, and baked masterfully. Day Six: Caciocavallo is a cheese regional to Puglia , reminiscent of provolone, but better. Donatella made us another delicious spread of local dishes including grilled zucchini with a touch of balsamic, a tomato salad, a cocomero salad, eggs, and friselle topped with tomatoes and basil. Cool off in crystal waters A summer in Europe without a heat wave is rare. However, having one in June is even more uncommon. When temperatures rise to 95 degrees, you go to the beach. Lido Gold is a laid-back beach club without beachside service. The staff doesn't seem interested in ensuring customer satisfaction, barely greeting people as they check in. However, the club's private stretch along the emerald waters of the Adriatic makes up for what the lido lacks in service and amenities. Lunch at Lido Gold Lounge Restaurant is sufficient to curtail your afternoon hunger, nothing more. The food is good enough for lunch, but nothing like the lunch served at Cinque Vele , which was outstanding. Jump in the pool, enjoy your rental Puglia ' s pace moves very slowly, in the best way possible. When not sightseeing, you're left with little more to do than lazily spend the day by the beach or pool. Setting aside a couple of decadent days doing nothing but lounging and swimming is good for the soul. Make sure to carve a few days like this into your itinerary: breakfast, beach, lunch, pool time at the villa, nap, and dinner. Perfetto! Make a toast to the sea & sun After an epically relaxing day, dinner at Relax Leuca seemed appropriate to continue the flow of ultra-tranquility. Although the food here is nothing to write home about, the vibe is perfect for sunset drinks. The view from the terrace is lovely, American music fills the air, and the staff is friendly. Come here for drinks (a glass of wine is only 3.5 euros!) and then head to dinner elsewhere. Day Seven: Donatella outdid herself again! I would have never imgained eating string beans for breakfast, but served cold with ricotta cheese and fresh mint has won me over! She also made us homemade panzerotti (fried dough stuffed with tomatoes and mozeralla). If this isn't enough, she prepared a creamy sweet treat topped with fruit. We officially asked her to move in with us this morning. Go with the flow We initially had reservations at Balelido but after making the thirty-minute drive we arrived to be informed that the beach club did not provide towels. Since we were unprepared, we decided to enjoy an afternoon swim at the villa. The saltwater pool overlooking Santa Maria di Leuca and the expansive sea was exactly what we needed to cool off during a heat wave. Thinking Traveller does not disappoint with their portfolio of villas. Try Pizza in Puglia We've been eating a lot of seafood and my husband was craving pizza for a change. We searched for the best-rated pizza in the area and scored with Leucalta Ristorante e Pizzeria . Their mozzarella and ricotta pizza with chili paste is to die for. This is my new favorite pizza. Lunch here was a real treat! Skip a lido and take a dip anywhere There are countless beaches in Santa Maria di Leuca for a swim in the sea. A dip off the main promenade was a gratifying way to cool off. The water here is so darn gorgeous, get it in as often as you can. Head over to Ruffano Dozens of shops are scattered throughout the alleys with stunning displays of handmade ceramics, which this inland village is famous for. The courtyard houses are whimsically lit with fairytale-like trees, bells, wells, and angel wings. Since it is further from the sea, Ruffano gets even hotter than the coastal towns so be prepared for high summer temperatures and plan your visit for evening hours. The architecture, shops, and cuisine make for a worthwhile visit. Reserve a table at Farmacia dei San i for an experimental meal Dinner along the main piazza, attached to ancient ruins, an inventive menu that gives Puglian cuisine a modern twist, a family-run business... all the elements for a lovely evening are found here. The kitchen creatively combines flavors and serves dishes we have not yet seen offered in Puglia . In addition, they distill their liqueurs on-site and put together a unique cocktail menu using homemade ingredients. Their famous dish, horse meat with mackerel sauce, was a big hit with our son (we weren't adventurous enough to try it). The fried egg over a cream sauce made our palates explode with joy. The risoni cooked perfectly with a fresh basil sauce and shaved ricotta was outstanding. A memorable meal awaits you in Ruffano . Day Eight: After one last breakfast with Donatella, it was sadly time to say arrivederci! She cooked a memorable dinner for us and seven heavenly breakfasts each made with so much love and pride. Every day she surprised us with a new spread of homemade Italian specialties, having her cook for us was the highlight of our trip. Grazie mille Donatella! Book a guide to discover Lecce Consider hiring a guide with toursbylocals to highlight important landmarks and provide a historical context. We booked Fabio who was full of passion and a wealth of information. He walked us through various architectural Baroque masterpieces and ancient Roman ruins we may have missed without an expert along with us. Under his guidance, we viewed and learned about various structures including Basilica di Santa Croce , the Monastery of Olivetani , The Jewish Quarters, a Roman amphitheater, and Duomo Square . He even got us up close to a paper mache artist at work. Lecce is a visually stunning town, a haven for history buffs, and offers tons of shopping and delicious food. Stop for local treats along the way You must try regional foods as you stroll through Lecce's streets. We stopped for mignons (pastries filled with cream) and gelato at Natalie Pasticceria because locals told us they make the best mignons and gelato. I can confirm that both of these treats are worth all the rave. Avio Bar whipped up a caffe leccese made with four ingredients that deliver an outrageously refreshing drink: almond syrup, ice, espresso, and a cream made of almond milk. Finally, we devoured a rustico (phyllo dough filled with tomatoes and mozzarella) straight out of the oven at Caffe Alvino . Cool off over a great lunch Summers in Lecce hit high temperatures. After a few hours of exploring, you'll want air conditioning to cool you down. However, Italians don't appreciate a/c like Americans do and you'll rarely find a place that is cooler inside than it is outside.   Il Vico del Gusto not only provides a well-cooled dining room that is elegant and modern, its menu comprised of seafood and vegetables is outstanding. We especially loved the grilled artichokes with almonds, the cheese-stuffed squash blossoms, and their homemade pastas. Eight days is the perfect time to immerse yourself in southern Puglia. This time frame allows for a balanced combination of sightseeing and lazy lido days while submerging in the culture and its people. We left feeling extremely relaxed and well-fed, learning more about the geography and history of the region with each day. Our Italian language skills were happily developed as we were forced to communicate only in Italian and we learned to embrace a slower pace. Make sure to travel to this part of Italy before tourists discover it and ruin its raw beauty. As of now, its untainted, undiscovered simplicity is what makes it just magical.

  • 3 Nights in Naples, Italy

    Napoli exudes grit and character at every street corner. There are no rules on the road here with Vespas and cars zooming by at their will and pedestrians taking a chance at survival each time they cross the road. Driving in this city was one of the most treacherous experiences, and I wasn't even behind the wheel. The energy is either contagious or repelling, depending on your pace, regardless you have no option but to keep up in this bustling city. Even the "sketchy" parts of Naples, which surround downtown, have charm in their neglected, colorless buildings that come to life with bright linens that hang to dry on their balconies. Like any major Italian city, Naples has great restaurants, friendly locals, streets meant to stroll and shop, and access to other nearby towns. Three nights is ample time to explore the city and its region. Day one: Explore Pompeii and Naples Just thirty minutes away from Napoli is a city that cannot be missed. The best way to learn about Pompeii's past and remarkable achievements is to book a private tour with "withlocals'; we booked Rafaelle, an archeologist with a load of passion for history. You'll be blown away by the massive site of the ruins, the advanced society of the Romans, and the unbelievable remains salvaged from this city that was wiped out almost two thousand years ago. Make sure to walk over to the watchtower after your tour to overlook the incredible city that once was. Head back to Naples for a traditional pizza: If you have patience, you may remain in the one-hour line to snatch a pie at any of the locations of the famous L'antica Pizzeria da Michele. I don't do lines. Instead, we got lost in some of the narrow, store-lined alleys, as we searched for the perfect pie while ingesting the sights and sounds of Italy's most iconic cities. We stumbled upon SpaccaNapoli Trattoria Pizzeria and enjoyed a traditional Neapolitan Pizza lunch. In true Naples fashion, they bake a delicious pizza using simple ingredients to maximize flavor. pros: very reasonable prices, a local favorite, fresh ingredients cons: none must order: a margherita pizza and a four cheese pizza Walk off those lunch calories and explore the Historic Centre of Naples (Centro Storico). Our walking itinerary looked like this: Piazza del Gesu Nuovo, Spanish Quarters, Galleria Umberto, Teatro di San Carlo, Plebiscito, Basilica San Francesco Da Paola, Royal Palace, and Castle Nuovo). This route gave us a great feel for Naples as we wove in and out of its streets soaking in the masterful architecture, history, and lively streets. Venture out into the burbs. Many tourists don't know about Posipillo, an affluent hillside suburb just twenty minutes outside Naples. You'll love the calm, beautiful feel of this well-kept neighborhood that runs along a stunning promenade with breathtaking panoramic views. There are plenty of bars and restaurants in this part of town yet the mood is serene and peaceful. We snatched a reservation at Rosiello, which served us an unforgettable meal. From the lush, garden setting that overlooks the sea, to the friendly staff, and the fantastic food, this is a not-to-miss dining experience. Every bite was perfectly prepared. We ordered the oysters, grilled octopus in tomato sauce, mozzarella salad with cherry tomatoes, garden vegetable ravioli, spaghetti with basil and cherry tomatoes, and the tomahawk steak. Each bite was true perfection. pros: lovely garden setting overlooking the sea, attentive staff, outstanding dishes cons: none must order: tomahawk steak, spaghetti with basil and cherry tomatoes, and the grilled octopus Day Two: Head over to Sorrento and explore Capri by boat Sorrento is a large, bustling coastal town where Vespas are even more ubiquitous than they are in Napoli. The windy roads that climb and descend are a joy on their own until you take a moment to admire the epic views below you, you'll instantly fall in love with this picturesque town. Keep in mind, that the traffic can be horrendous. It took us forty-five minutes to get through the last six miles of our route but you won't mind, sitting still in your car will allow you to watch the locals pass by and give you a glimpse into the town's unpretentious, laid-back feel. Rent a boat and spend a day in Capri. We rented a boat via Restart Italy, their service is exceptional and they offer a range of fleets that suit every size and budget. Hiring a boat to take you around the island is the only way to truly experience the true beauty of Capri as you get up close to the famous "white cave", "green cave", "blue cave" (ie the blue grotto, which was closed on the day we visited due to strong waves) and Faraglioni di Capri. Boating along the coast of Capri will take your breath away and provide a perspective of the island that cannot be missed. Stroll the narrow streets of Capri's Piazza. Once you've explored the coast, dock your boat and embark on this magical island. The main plaza is up the hill which you can access by the funicular, a taxi, or a steep walk up hundreds of stairs. We opted for the stairs, which we momentarily regretted yet in retrospect would do so again as this route took us through beautiful gardens, back streets, and changes in the views as we climbed in altitude. Capri has many gorgeous shops, not the touristy kind but the kinds that inspire you to want to boost your wardrobe. We were stunned by how many people were visiting this small side of the island, the crowds were almost unbearable in early June, before peak season. Despite the swarms of people, you'll fall in love with the majestic views, the narrow store-lined alleys, the colorful flowers, the charming balconies, and the local lemon sorbet which is divine on a hot day. Linger over lunch. It's not easy finding just the right lunch spot in a tourist-heavy town. After much research, we settled on La Capannina. The multilevel trattoria creates a fun, tropical mood but more importantly, delivers an incredible variety of traditional, local fare using the freshest ingredients. We ordered a caprese salad, an octopus carpaccio, the zucchine fritte, spaghetti with cherry tomatoes, sea bass with mushrooms and potatoes, grilled chicken, and mozzarella ravioli. Every bite was outstanding. Gosh, the food in Italy is so darn good. pros: friendly staff, charming setting, delicious food cons: none must order: caprese salad, octopus carpaccio, and sea bass with mushrooms and potatoes After a full day, slow down for aperitivo with a view. Sky Lounge at the Grand Vesuvio Hotel delivers excellent snacks and cocktails, along with mesmerizing views. It's the perfect place to relax after a fun-filled day. Indulge for dinner at Caruso Rooftop Lounge. Also located at the Grand Vesuvio Hotel, this highly regarded restaurant emanates elegance and sophistication. The atmosphere is ultra romantic especially during dusk as the sun paints the sky pink and the candles twinkle on the refined table setting. While Caruso Rooftop Lounge wins for atmosphere, its kitchen falls short when preparing creative or tasty dishes. The superb setting sadly doesn't line up with the cooked courses. I recommend you book a table to enjoy a glass of regional wine to toast the sun as she retreats to bed and then head elsewhere for your main meal. pros: magnificent views, romantic setting cons: staff not polished enough, food subpar, falls short of potential caliber must order: the spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and zucchini Where to Lodge: The Grand Vesuvio Hotel With thousands of hotel options, choosing the perfect place to stay can become an overwhelming task. You'll love The Grand Vesuvio for its old-world elegance, refined service, amenities, and location. A bountiful breakfast buffet, sophistically displayed, is included in the rate and served in a grand dining hall. In addition, the hotel boasts one of Naple's top restaurants, Caruso Rooftop Lounge, and a well-known rooftop bar. The rooms are royally appointed in tapestry, silk lampshades, and balconies that overlook the Gulf of Naples and a historic castle. Despite being in the city's center, the hotel's location is quiet, making it a perfect retreat from an overly active city. pros: for families with multiple children, you can book a hotel room with three single beds for the younger ones to connect to yours, excellent location, beautiful hotel con: tiny elevators. i walked up and down six flights during our entire stay to avoid the claustrophobic means of transport Napoli, you've been a wonderful first stop paving the way for our Italian adventures. With your wild streets and chaotic sidewalks, you're not for the faint of heart. Yet your energy, history, sites, smells, and sounds are uplifting and invigorating. Three nights was just the right amount of time to get to know you. Arrivederci!

  • May Food & Fun

    In La Jolla, locals refer to this month as "May Gray" because of the looming marine layer that hides the sun. However, when you focus on the vibrant food scene in San Diego, it's hard to feel gloomy! This month I enjoyed dining in restaurants I haven't yet visited while exploring new fun activities. With so many incredible food options and endless exciting activities in my backyard, it's hard to focus on gray skies! Below are the food & fun findings I delved into with vigor and joy, now you too can enjoy these vetted recommendations. The Whaling Bar (La Jolla) In 1949 The Whaling Bar emerged as an iconic bar in the Valencia Hotel and remained a popular meeting spot for celebrities and ritzy locals until it shut down for the last decade. It reopened just a couple of months ago and has nailed creating a vibe of sophistication and elegance, drawing an attractive, well-dressed crowd. The menu is as enticing as the dimly lit, swanky interior with a variety of alluring options, all meant to be shared. I love this spot so much that I have eaten here four times since they recently opened. It's my new favorite neighborhood destination. pros: creative cocktails, unique menu with outstanding dishes, great service, and an atmosphere that welcomes you to dress your best cons: none must order: truffled old fashioned with mezcal, truffle, porcini mushrooms, xocolate bitters; the caviar buckwheat pancakes; the pickled fingerling potatoes; the wild mushroom mille feuille; and definitely do not miss out on "the hamburger" dessert Cody's (La Jolla) I've passed by Cody's hundreds of times since moving to La Jolla almost three years ago and was always too uninterested to make the schlep upstairs. Recently, I dined here for a friend's birthday and returned a week later for another great breakfast. The restaurant delivers a laid-back, casual space to enjoy great breakfasts with lively music and ocean views. pros: the kitchen is very flexible with accommodating requests, an upbeat environment, great views, a spacious outdoor patio, and great staff- a server taught us that watercress is one of the healthiest foods on the planet cons: none must order: anything you're in the mood for, they'll literally customize a dish for you Pacifica (Del Mar) This eatery especially stands out because of its open patio overlooking the sea. The restaurant is quite large with an indoor space that boasts a retro feel in contrast to the patio's more elegant setting. It's a great brunch spot to meet with friends to share some of their interesting breakfast dishes over great conversation. pros: pretty patio with an ocean breeze, friendly service, fun brunch cocktails, large menu cons: it was pretty quiet on a saturday morning must order: the sugar-spiced salmon hash with two poached eggs, yukon potatoes, asparagus, braised fennel, smoked trout roe, and dill hollandaise Provisional Kitchen (Downtown) We loved our dinner at this stylish downtown restaurant inside the chic Pendry Hotel. The menu highlights American cuisine using seasonal ingredients and offers great weeknight specials like "Wine Down Wednesdays" - live music, complimentary cheese plate, and half-off wine bottles. pros: enjoy a great meal in a beautiful setting, great specials on sundays, wednesdays and thursdays cons: parking can be a challenge must order: wagyu skirt steak with smoked tomato puree, smashed potato, pickled onion Kayaking on the Pacific Ocean Kayaking in La Jolla Shores with Everyday California is a fun adventure that may seem touristy but must be experienced by locals at least once. The check-in process is efficient and led by charming staff members who are friendly and funny. Our tour guide, Girardo, kept us all laughing throughout the tour as well. We spent ninety minutes out on the water spotting a couple of seals as we made our way along the breathtaking coast. Depending on Mother Nature on some days kayakers can enter the caves. We were unable to although we did hit a couple of thrills when large swells brought us an adrenaline rush. On our return to shore, we were warned about flipping over as we kayak-surfed back to land. Despite the tips on how to avoid this, many did lose control, including myself leaving me drenched in water during my drive home. Tip: bring a towel and a change of layer at the very least. Starting my Sunday morning with this excursion is one of my most memorable and enjoyable La Jolla memories. The serenity from being out in the open ocean is just unbeatable. Crossing the Border and Exploring Mexico I can't believe it has taken me this long to drive into Mexico. It's been almost three years of living just forty-five minutes from the border and we haven't taken advantage of our proximity to the country until recently. Rather than exploring places like Valle de Guadalupe, just two hours away, we've instead hopped on planes twice over these three years to explore other regions in Mexico. Read about our two night getaway to Valle de Guadalupe during Memorial Day Weekend HERE. San Diego continues to deliver endless options for food and fun. I have been writing about the food scene here for one year and five months now, never running out of fantastic restaurants to highlight or adventures to embark on. It just takes the willingness to get out and explore "America's Finest City" to see firsthand that it offers a lot more than mild year-round weather.

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