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  • 7 Nights in Jackson Hole, WY

    Jackson Hole is flowing with energy, even in the deepest of winter. I am obsessed with the rhythm of this town - it's insane food scene on par with New York City's delicious culinary culture, its even-keeled "purple" political climate, its unavoidable immersion in nature with mountain peaks at every turn, the large snowflakes that never cease falling from the blue skies, and the fit lifestyle embedded into the daily routines of the extremely friendly locals who are always outdoors. A population of 20,000 people seems to be the sweet spot of happy living with enough people to create a harmonious balance of ample social scenes yet enough space to find solitude. Everyone here complies with mask-wearing rules, everyone. We never felt unsafe due to a lack of safety measures as they were implemented wherever we went - indoors and outdoors. Although skiing is the biggest draw here in the winter, there is still so much to explore beyond the mountain sport. I don't ski and found myself always yearning to explore more than I was able to. Below is my carefully selected summary of what to see and do in Jackson, where to eat and lodge in Jackson, and just an overall perspective of life in Jackson Hole in my eight short days here. Skiing in Jackson Hole: There are two main mountains in Jackson Hole: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and Snow King. The former is in Teton Village, approximately fifteen miles outside of downtown Jackson and is the more popular ski/snowboard destination offering 133 glorious trails to shred. The latter is conveniently located in downtown Jackson, offering night skiing, tubing, and the steepest vertical run in North America, alluring to advanced skiers, but only offers thirty-two trails. At the summit's 10,500 altitude level, Jackson Hole Mountain has the most gorgeous views available. On a clear day, you can view mountain ranges for miles ahead, including the omnipotent Grand Teton Range. The snow was always perfectly powdery during our stay making for ideal skiing. My family raved about the views, trails, and conditions during the five days they hit the slopes. Teton Village, where Jackson Hole Mountain is located, is small and unimpressive. Despite the easy access to the slopes, I personally do not recommend staying in Teton as downtown Jackson has so much more to offer and is where all the action is. Teton has your basic ski gear shops, a couple of cafes, and The Four Seasons Hotel, which is the biggest draw here outside of the slopes. There really isn't much else to do in the area and you will find yourself venturing into downtown Jackson often. The Four Seasons does have a great bar, The Handle Bar, that has an overflowing patio with space heaters. Even in the dead of winter, the outdoor seating was packed with a long wait time for seating. Instead, we sat at the indoor bar where the bartender prepared a magnificent mezcal margarita to enjoy along with one of the best nachos we ever dug into. Should you decide to stay in Teton Village, I definitely recommend lodging at The Four Seasons. The hotel masters the exclusivity here that it is known for in its other locations. Although The Handle Bar has a crowd mainly comprised of non-hotel guests, you will find a very serene space in the other areas of the hotel where you won't have to share the space with hundreds of others who have nothing else to do in Teton. If you aren't visiting with your own ski gear, make sure to rent your equipment through Black Tie Ski Rentals of Jackson Hole. They make life super easy by meeting you at your hotel/home for a fitting and drop off of the equipment and will also pick up the gear from your location at a time that is most convenient for you. The owner of the Jackson Hole location, Scott, is extremely helpful and fun to chat with. We hired this company in Big Sky as well and have been very pleased with the professional service they deliver. Best Nature Excursions in Jackson Hole: 1) You MUST book a Wildlife Adventure tour with Ecotours Adventures. Our outstanding guide, Verlin, picked us up at our hotel and greeted us with a basket filled with delicious snacks and a pair of professional binoculars for each of us. We drove for hours through Teton National Park spotting beavers, bald eagles, bighorn sheep, elks, bison, and moose through the most majestic winter landscape. I seriously felt like we were in a magical snowglobe with creatures that only exist in fairytales sharing our mythical space each time the globe was shaken. Verlin got us as close as possible to the miraculous creatures that appeared before us and when some were further out of view his awesome scope made us feel just a few feet away. Even more fun were the hatches in the van that let us pop out of the roof on a whim to catch an animal that spontaneously appeared. As a bonus when we arrived at Jenny Lake we met the nicest couple who shared their sled with us so the kids can sled down steep hills right into the frozen lake. What a memorable adventure this tour was! 2) On a clear day, which is often the case in Jackson Hole, hop in your car and drive over to Teton Lookout Point, approximately 40 minutes outside of Jackson. The ride will delight you with spectacular views of The Grand Tetons the entire way. Seeing them so vividly was extremely exhilarating and profoundly moving. There aren't enough words to describe their beauty. Go see them for yourselves and you will understand the natural high they will bring into your life. 3) Elk Refuge Road, ten minutes outside Jackson, guarantees encounters with bighorn sheep. On both visits, we got cozy with these local beauties who so delicately make their way grazing through the greens along the road. They are comfortable around humans but don't get too close, they are wild animals after all. Respect their space and admire them from a few feet away. They are incredible to watch in their natural habitat. Jackson: So, what is the difference between Jackson and Jackson Hole? People usually refer to the general area as Jackson Hole, which technically includes the entire area of Teton, Wilson, and downtown Jackson. Jackson is the main hub surrounding the downtown area. Now, you can correctly refer to these specific places like a true local! I can totally imagine living in Jackson and never getting bored. The town is my favorite ski resort destination by far. It's honestly impossible not to fall in love with all it offers. Downtown's architecture is quaint and beautifully lit up at night. There are always people out, window shopping, and strolling through the streets. Upon entering the many upscale shops and galleries I instantly recognized a Manhattan chicness to them, learning later that there are many New York transplants here. The stores are all designed and curated so well I got lost browsing through their shelves. Also, downtown has dozens of incredible restaurants. All of this is available while being surrounded by mountain ranges which I found quite humbling as I perused mittens that were a couple of hundred bucks. It's always nice to have nature put you in check and remind you to put your wallet away and get your hiking boots out. The vistas, as you roam the sidewalks, are truly outstanding, and invite you to stop shopping and start hiking. I really love this place. It's a year-round destination that draws more than 2.5 million visitors each year. I already have it in mind for a summer visit soon so that we can explore all it has to offer in warmer weather. One day, when the kids are off to college, I and my husband will spend a few months here when we live our best nomadic lives. We will be back. The main strip of town, on Broadway, and its surrounding streets are packed with unique retail shops that required me to exercise my will power. I could list dozens of stores that retained my attention. Instead, I will share two that really stood out. Pearls by Sari exhudes priciness but I was really surprised by the $80 price tag of the bracelet I was eyeing and ultimately purchased. Don't be deterred by its expensive looking image. They sell great items for very reasonable prices that will allow you to take a piece of Jackson home with you. Mountain Trails Galleries stands out amongst the many galleries that line the town square for several reasons. Firstly, they have a mesmerizing display of outdoor sculptures that immediately draw in passerbys. Secondly, their showroom is gigantic and will mostly lure lovers of Native American and nature themed art. Lastly, the salesperson was incredibly sweet, patient, informative and never balked one moment when we entered the space with three kids. She even let me touch a pre-casted life size mountain lion in its full clay form before being bronzed. I needed to touch this sculpture and she allowed me to fulfill my wishes. Lodging: As already mentioned, book your hotel in Jackson, not Teton Village. Doing so will give you great access to all the restaurants and shopping available downtown. If we didn't need to book multiple rooms so that our kids had their own space for remote learning, we would have totally splurged on The Wort Hotel which is ideally located in the heart of downtown with everything at its doorstep. Since we had to be more budget-conscious we booked a less central hotel although truly well-appointed and highly recommended. The Wyoming Inn at Jackson Hole is one mile outside of downtown but otherwise has nicely decorated rooms, a western ski lodge feel with an enormous fireplace in its lobby, an extremely popular restaurant (The Whistling Grizzly) that gets booked out for dinner far in advance, a friendly staff, and a great gym where I rode my first peloton. We were extremely happy here during our seven-night stay. Best Restaurants in Jackson Hole (in the order we visited): The culinary culture here is out of control. Countless restaurants take pride in serving creative cuisine that will blow your socks off. I had a hard time choosing where to reserve but after lots of research and thought (yes, I put a lot of thought into where we eat, great food is an essential part of our travels!) I truly think I made the best decisions to help me narrow down the best restaurants in Jackson Hole. Reservations are an absolute necessity here so make sure to book in advance. 1) The Kitchen delivers perfectly prepared dishes with an Asian flair to the table. It is immediately obvious how much attention to detail is put into the plates which arrive as masterpieces too beautiful to eat. The menu offers unique dishes with a few vegan options as well. We were overwhelmed by all the incredible choices so we decided to order a bunch of dishes to get a taste of as much as we could. We immediately embarked on a culinary experience like no other. On the tasting agenda: tuna tostadas, Peruvian ceviche, latkes with salmon and caviar, green papaya salad, luxury shrimp, vegan meatloaf, diver scallops, and two orders of the vegan buckwheat soba. The chefs at this restaurant are gastronomic geniuses. Even the bartenders hit the nail with one of the most flawless old fashions I have sipped on that I was able to snag for half the price during their happy hour. What a steal! 2) Binn 22 brilliantly brings an innovative concept of a large retail wine shop at the front of the space with a tiny tapas bar in its rear. But make no mistake, this small restaurant delivers BIG results. Each of us was enthralled by each bite of the several Spanish dishes we ordered. Some were so ridiculously delicious we had to order a double dose. Like The Kitchen, Binn 22 has a happy hour from 4:00 pm-6:00 pm with half off all drinks. My Spanish red was a lovely addition to balance my meal which was comprised of grilled octopus, fried mozzarella, beet salad, roasted cauliflower, patatas bravas, and mushroom crostini. Every single bite awakened our palate into a maximum state of pleasure. Surprisingly, unlike the other restaurants on my list, at Binn 22 we didn't break the bank. We were pleasantly surprised by the very reasonable bill and would have been happy to pay more than it cost because it was just that good. Reservations are not taken here and there is always a wait so I strongly suggest arriving as close to their opening time as possible. 3) Calico is located ten minutes outside of downtown Jackson, in the town of Wilson, and is certainly worth the quick drive for some incredibly delicious pizza. Otherwise, don't order anything else on the overpriced menu that offers food nowhere near as good as their wood oven pizza. Two of my kids ordered a plane spaghetti dish topped with a ladle full of marinara sauce that came with a $20 price tag and the garlic bread's preparation was uninspiring. We also ordered a bowl of locally grown heirloom mushrooms in a creamy rosemary chevre with toasted focaccia which was good but not great. My husband did like his chicken parmesan, which I can't vouch for since I do not eat poultry. BUT I can speak for the thin-crusted pizzas we ordered that really stood out and saved the meal. We opted for one pie with alfredo sauce, cheese, artichoke hearts, and roasted tomatoes and another pie with goat cheese sauce, portobello mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, arugula, and mozzarella. The exceptional ingredient combinations really stand out here and for a great pie, this is the place to satiate your craving. 4) Coelette is one of those sexy spots that you just can't get enough of. From the moment I entered it was love at first sight. Everything is attractive and seductive at this restaurant. The sleekly modern furniture, the roaring fireplace, the individual brass lamps placed on each table, the masterfully presented palette of colors on each dish, and even the personalized hand sanitizer that is placed on each table looks like an expensive vile of lipgloss. The owner, who we think we overheard saying that he is from New York, is friendly and stops by each table to make sure his guests are happy. I cannot imagine anyone being unhappy here. Just looking at the pictures of our meal releases high levels of endorphins in my brain. Although not a vegetarian restaurant we were able to order nine vegetarian dishes that consistently blew us away. Even the bread and butter, which sounds so simple, was so fresh and warm to the touch. In addition, we ordered a charred cabbage with horseradish skyr, a sauerkraut pancake with lion's mane, soba with Tokyo negi, beets in persimmon cream topped with pistachios, yam sprinkled with black sesame maple and white truffle, sweet leaf salad with squash and blueberries, and a wagyu beef short rib for the two carnivores in our group. Just for fun, click on their link to read the more detailed version of their menu. No joke, the menu makes for a great read, and having the opportunity to order off of it makes for a great life experience. 5) Westbank Grill at The Four Seasons in Teton Village delivers impeccable service, presentation, and preparation. As soon as the valet greeted us in our car we were showered with such a sincere welcome that carried through our entire dining experience. In true Four Season's fashion, the interior decor of the restaurant is sleek, elegant, and modern with a formal atmosphere that is laid back and not overly stuffy. I can't stress enough how incredibly memorable our meal was here and I dare to say that dinner here was probably one of the top twenty dinners we have ever enjoyed. Considering that we are from New York City and travel a bunch, this ranking says a lot about how utterly delicious each bite was. On the tasting agenda was the wild salmon perfectly cooked with sunchokes, artichokes, and fennel; the Korean BBQ octopus prepared with kimchee, fresno chilis, and crispy shallots; the spaghetti & wild mushroom with black truffle, cauliflower mousse, and pecorino. My spicy cucumber margarita was equally delectable and the banana foster souffle we ended our meal with was probably devoured under a minute. Oh gosh, it was so good. Since two of our kids are vegetarian the only option that appealed to them was the macaroni and cheese on the kids' menu. However, being quite the food snobs at their young age (hey, they are from NYC!) they didn't want a mac and cheese made with velveeta cheese (yuck!). The chef prepared a special dish just for them using four freshly grated kinds of cheese executing what they both kept repeating was the best mac & cheese of their lives. Seriously, don't miss the opportunity to dine here. 6) Snake River Grill is a Jackson institution that will appear on your searches of the best places to dine over and over again. The interior is so Jackson. It's warm, cozy, and dripping with beautiful touches everywhere you look. From ceilings adorned with wooden beams and hand-painted murals to fresh flowers in clay pots and most notably a roaring fire located in the center of the dining hall, this restaurant is the place to be and was by far the busiest establishments we visited. The large space was filled with locals enjoying a romantic atmosphere along with their dinner. The space masters the kind of ambiance that makes you want to stay for hours on end. In terms of the food, had we had our first dinner in Jackson here, I am sure we would have absolutely loved it. However, after having so many other fantastic meals Snake River Grill just didn't overly impress us with its flavors. Don't get me wrong, the food is solid. Very solid. Coupled with the beautiful space, it makes for a great dinner choice. It's just that the other restaurants noted will leave you dreaming of their concoctions for days on end. As always, we sampled several items on the menu: SRG potato pancakes with smoked salmon, butternut squash soup, green chili onion rings with two dipping sauces, lamb tortellini, mushroom pappardelle with leek pistou, seared trout with sunchokes and cauliflower risotto, caesar salad, and a peanut butter torte with chocolate ganache and blueberry jam. 7) Dinner at Glorietta was a wonderful ending to our stay in Jackson Hole. Located downtown, this cozy Italian bistro serves incredibly delicious dishes that are packed with flavor. Their cocktails are equally memorable. Upon entering we were greeted with the tantalizing scents of authentic Italian cuisine and were eager to place our order and connect our senses of taste and scent. As expected our senses melodically worked together leading to a beautiful meal. For drinks we sipped on "tower three", a smoky combination of mezcal, campari, vermouth, and sage as well as an "easy does it" mixing together vodka, vermouth, red bell pepper, and sesame chili oil. How creative, huh? For our meal, we relished in bites of arancini, mozzarella fritto, spaghetti pomodoro, the night's special of a spicy seafood stew, and the ultimate dish of ravioli d'ouvo topped with an extremely generous shaving of truffles. For the grande finale, we dove into the homemade cinnamon honey gelato and apple torte with whipped mascarpone. The space is unpretentious and rather simple in design allowing for a committed focus on service and food preparation. We loved our dinner here. Grazie mille Glorietta! Best Cafes in Jackson Hole: 1) Cowboy Coffee opens at 6:00 am for those who, like me, are up at the crack of dawn and require a great cup of joe as a prerequisite to their day. I'm not quite sure how the staff is so smiley and chipper so early in the morning, but they are and as a result, you'll be smiling earlier than you are used to. Their lattes and drip coffee are amazing. They also have a wide range of breakfast menu items and pastries. Their smoothies are made with fresh fruit, which we all loved beginning our mornings with. For those who want to linger, Cowboy Coffee has a warm and cozy space with welcoming couches and tables. This is the kind of coffee shop I wish I had in my own neighborhood back home. 2) Persephone instantly lures its customers with its freshly baked goods, French appeal, and adorable decor. We arrived at the opening hour of 7:00 am, and by 7:05 there was already a line out the door. My only qualm with the bakery/cafe is that their pastries are baked offsite and didn't arrive until around 7:20 am. Keep this in mind if you are craving one of their fantastically flaky croissants to down with a creamy latte. It's worth the wait for sure, but if you're like me and get cranky when waiting, head over closer to 7:30 am. Besides the wait time, I fell in love with this place. No detail is overlooked from the dainty logos on each cup to the whimsical food wrapping that goes around your to-go order to the charming decor. Persephone is a happy place that captivates its customers from the moment they enter. 3) Silverdollar Bar & Grill at The Wort Hotel has a lovely ambiance and a large, interesting breakfast menu. They have a range of breakfast skillet dishes that instantly appealed to us. I opted for the vegetarian skillet which was stuffed with hashbrowns, red bell pepper, asparagus, and two eggs over medium. I have several individual-sized skillets at home that I usually make tapas in and left Silverdollar inspired to make individual breakfast skillets next time I host a brunch back home. My husband had the "Wild Game Skillet" with elk and bison tossed in and raved about how delicious it was. Breakfast here is highly recommended followed by a quick stroll through the hotel's halls and lobby to admire historic photographs and the upscale lodge environment. 4) CocoLove is a dream come true for chocoholics like me. As a former owner of a couple of chocolate shops in New York City, I am always drawn to how other cocoaphiles execute their chocolate visions. CocoLove does a wonderful job of showcasing stunning chocolate creations behind a simple glass enclosure while incorporating a more elaborate seating section with brightly lit, red walls. Of course, I couldn't resist trying a variety of their products, in the name of research, of course. Firstly, their Mexican hot chocolate was out of this world mainly because of the right amount of cardamon used in the recipe. For those who like an extra kick, chili can be added by request. For the chocolates, I selected Yuzu Extreme Dark, Vanilla Saffron, Dark Passion Fruit, Caramel Sea Salt, and Orange Salted Caramel. They are like little jewels, shiny and alluring, waiting to be enjoyed. Of course, we couldn't wait long and the unanimous consensus was YUM. Finally, for later noshing we added dark chocolate powdered hazelnuts and mendiants with nuts. These I'll save for our next destination to help me feel closer to Jackson when I long to be with it again. 5) Cafe Genevieve appeals to those who want brunch for lunch (really, who doesn't want brunch all day long?). Their all-day brunch menu is served in a homey, unpretentious environment in the heart of Jackson. I am a big fan of huevos rancheros and I can say their innovative spin on the recipe is hands down one of the best versions out there. The green chili is the dominant ingredient in the dish, which results in a not-so-mild kick in the heat department. The chili is served on top of a generous amount of mashed black beans and the triumphant trio is completed with runny eggs on the top layer. The excitement that came when the yolk poured over the dish was hard to contain. Make sure to head on over to this cute cafe while you are in town. There are no places on this planet with actual winters that I could dream of living in year-round. No matter how beautiful the location, I just have zero desire to move to another city that requires me to be bundled up at least three months out of the year. I've had enough of this the last twenty-two years in Manhattan. Then I met Jackson. Here, I can envision myself cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, hiking through the snowy terrain, dining outdoors under space heaters, and walking through town during snowfall. Even at frigid temperatures, the weather is oddly inviting and never feels too cold. The sunny, blue skies add to the magical spark this small city manages so well. Never in my life did I have any pull to visit this little land and yet here I am completely in love with it. Jackson has my heart and I do envision reuniting with it one day soon.

  • 5 Nights of Big Fun in Big Sky

    Montana has always felt unattainable yet the state continuously held a spot on my bucket list for reasons unknown to me beyond an unexplainable connection to this place without knowing or hearing much about it. I just knew that we had to make it to any part of Montana during our road trip. As you can imagine, when we crossed the state border I was giddy with joy that not only did we arrive at a place I have always dreamt of visiting but we did so by driving across the country to reach it. To me, making it to Big Sky, Montana proved that big dreams do come true. Our experience in Montana exceeded all our hopes and expectations. The folks here are super friendly and hospitable. Everyone wears a mask. Everyone. We felt extremely safe and comfortable our entire stay here, which was a big relief after our Covid-19 exposure scares in Idaho. In terms of weather, I was surprised on a daily basis by how warm a high of twenty degrees could feel. I am not a fan of cold weather yet somehow it never felt too cold during our stay in spite of the low temperatures. In addition, the food scene here is incredible. We seriously had some mind-blowing meals in Big Sky. Big Sky is aptly named as the blue skies here are endless, bright and even in the dead of winter, they are SUNNY. It felt so good to bask in the sunshine again. It has been over a month since we have been exposed to the sun regularly and the feeling of reconnecting was tremendous. The vistas here are stunning, the snow is as pure, powdery, and perfect as snow can be and the resort village, while small, explodes with charm. Our five nights here were heavenly. Make your way over as soon as you can! Below are my insider's tips of where to stay, shop, and dine while in Big Sky. Where to Stay: The Village Center is a ski-in/out resort that lacks the crowded lobbies of The Huntley or The Summit (the other two ski-in/out properties in the ski village). I specifically chose this resort because I did not want a full-service hotel that offers people a reason to congregate. Village Center is more exclusive and literally in the heart of Big Sky Resort. While there is no bar or restaurant on the property, guests can order room service, enjoy the onsite gym and outdoor pool, walk a few steps to several dining options, and be tended to by the most welcoming staff. For our family of five, we booked two studio suites which both utilized the space brilliantly. The couch in the living area is a sleeper sofa and there is a queen-sized, very comfortable murphy bed. They were also able to add a rollaway into the kids' room so that all three could sleep comfortably. Each room had a small kitchenette equipped with a dishwasher, microwave, and fridge. Most notable were the beautiful views outside the rooms' windows. As an added bonus breakfast at The Huntley's Chet Bar & Grill is included in the rate. For a much quieter and more relaxing experience, I highly recommend this smaller property that offers easy access to the slopes, a tastefully appointed rustic décor, fantastic service, and a more serene environment. Skiing Obviously, the biggest draw to Big Sky Resort is the roughly 300 powdery trails beckoning snowboarders and skiers of all levels to hit the slopes. Due to its remote location, Big Sky Resort does not get as crowded as other popular ski destinations. Even during winter break, which was the time we visited, the crowds were not overwhelming. In addition, we found the resort to be extremely well managed with a high staff to guest ratio. Especially fun was utilizing their brand new state-of-the-art lift. "The Swifty" quickly carries six passengers up 1,700 feet and is now the fastest ski lift in North America. Last ski season the mountain introduced the "Ramcharger" with heated seats, leg rests, and a drop-down shield on windy days. With two of the country's most advanced ski lifts, great weather (seriously, even at seven degrees it doesn't feel too cold here), perfect snow conditions, and a super laid-back vibe, it's a surprise more people don't make their way out here. The staff shared that they considered the mountain to be as busy as ever. Yet for us, it was a dreamy, harmonious balance between a plethora of trails and just the right amount of visitors to create lively energy without overwhelming the experience. Apparently, the resort purposefully keeps its crowds small by refusing to build more lodging to accommodate more people and by keeping its marketing budget small. They've created something pretty magical in doing so. Big Sky Resort should honestly remain a big secret. Black Tie Ski Rental This VIP ski gear rental service is a lifesaver. We pre-booked a time for them to deliver all our gear directly to our hotel room upon arrival. Their friendly staff was punctual and quick in getting everyone properly fitted. The gear stayed with us until we checked out at which point Black Tie staff returned to our hotel to pick up the rentals. No lines. No stress. No headaches. Brilliant. The Five Best Places to Eat in Big Sky: 1) Pizza Works. Let's just say that our kids swear this was the best pizza they ever had and immediately planted a request for a future order. Seems like everyone on the mountain agrees as it took us over an hour to get our pies but it was sure worth the wait. The Margherita Pizza and Three Cheese Pizza (with artichokes and mushrooms that we added) were truly delectable as was the extra creamy and crunchy Caesar Salad. This establishment is take-out only but make sure to experience a pie or two here at least once. 2) Michaelangelo's Big Sky. This restaurant is a MUST visit while in town. Although it is fifteen minutes outside the resort, in the lovely town of Gallatin, it is absolutely worth the drive. They offer a very creative Italian menu that will leave you longing for more, and more, and more. In addition, their safety protocols are outstanding; they booked out less than half of their capacity which allowed us to kick back and devour our delicious meals worry-free. For starters, we dove into the sautéed squid cooked in roasted tomato, garlic, and Pinot Grigio reduction along with an herb polenta topped with grilled portabella mushroom doused in drunken goat cheese. For our mains, we selected ricotta and black truffle stuffed pasta in black tartufata cream sauce, gnocchi in hazelnut pesto sauce, a ricotta cavatelli, elk chops, and a bison filet. Honestly, I think this is the first time in a long while that we literally licked our plates clean. The modern décor, excellent service, perfectly implemented Covid safety protocols and insanely delicious meals make this one of our most memorable dining experiences during our five months exploring the USA. 3) Olive B's Big Sky Bistro. Also in Gallatin, a quick fifteen-minute drive from the resort, this restaurant offers fantastically fresh fare. The night's special ahi tuna dish was a creamy dream and the bison wellington, lamb chops, potato leek soup, beet salad, mashed potatoes, and Caesar salads were an equal delight and enjoyed by all. In fact, my husband couldn't stop raving about the bison wellington. The rustic interior with an open kitchen creates a warm atmosphere that ultimately delivers a delicious dinner. The only drawback is that although our meal started with ample spacing between tables, a table was seated adjacent to us during our last bites causing us to quickly finish a meal we would have liked to savor. Nevertheless, we had an outstanding meal here. 4) Peaks restaurant in the Summit Hotel offers delicious New American cuisine and is known for their perfectly prepared steaks. As soon as we entered this elegantly appointed establishment we were greeted by a warm waiter who took meticulous care to ensure that we were extremely satisfied during our entire visit. And we certainly were. The food at Peaks is fantastic. My older son literally groaned with delight as he bit into his wagyu steak and my husband vouched that the rib eye he ordered was incredible. Despite their focus on appealing mainly to carnivores, the restaurant offers some vegetarians dishes on their menu too. I ordered the squash bisque which was so flavorful I almost ordered a second bowl. We also enjoyed some salads and my younger two devoured their cheesy, dreamy, creamy macaroni and cheese dishes. Oh, and the tuna carpaccio was also so fresh, thinly cut, and beautifully seasoned. The restaurant is on the formal side, but not stuffy, and while many dressed up for their dinner there were also others who fit right in with their casual attire. If you ever feel like getting glammed up while on the resort, you can feel right at home doing so at Peaks. 5) Horn & Cantle at Lone Mountain Ranch, seven minutes outside the resort, provides an authentic mid-western ranch experience on their sprawling property where wildlife roam freely. On an especially snowy day, we all felt like we were dining in a snow globe as the pure, white landscape outside the windows was otherworldly. The property's restaurant, Horn & Cantle, offers an outstanding breakfast with interesting menu items prepared with the freshest ingredients. They take their utmost care to even perfectly present their beverages. My cappuccino's foam was perfection and the kids shrieked with delight when their hot chocolates arrived topped with marshmallows. As expected our entrees were incredible. We ordered three chilaquiles and two avocado toasts and all were beautifully presented by a delightful server. We left with overly pleased palates. Do not leave town without a meal here. We also had dinner reservations at Cabin Bar & Grill, which did not make our list of favorite restaurants in Big Sky. Located on the third floor of the Arrowhead Mall on the resort, the rustic design of the restaurant is inviting and cozy but does not deliver meals worth their price point. A vegetable quinoa salad is $33 (we did not order it) and a so-so wild salmon special was over-priced at $45. My husband liked his bison meatballs but was not blown away by the preparation as he was in the previously mentioned restaurants. Similarly, our son enjoyed his elk tenderloin but not in an overwhelmingly satisfying way that he experienced at other Big Sky dining establishments and definitely not in a way that a $46 dish warrants. I'd say come here for lunch for a burger and beer or for apres-ski cocktails but otherwise despite the wonderful service, and convenient location on the resort property, it just isn't worth the costly dinner bill. Although not the largest resort town, Big Sky Resort offers several restaurant options, an indoor food court, a couple of bars, and some great shopping. There was enough to keep me busy and entertained while my crew was shredding the slopes. 4 Best Shops in the Resort Village: 1) Hungry Moose. This local market, located in Vista Hall, comes in handy when stocking up on basics like snacks, toiletries, wine, and milk. They had a small selection of everything we needed and even things we didn't need but couldn't resist purchasing (like Montana Huckleberry Honey). Tip: go late morning once everyone is on the mountain or late evening. 4:00pm-6:00pm is packed with shoppers. 2) Provisions & Pendleton. Located in the upper lobby of The Summit Hotel, this well-curated shop sells high-end clothing for both men and women. They offer amazing brands that you may not find everywhere like Skhoop and Krimson Klover. It was difficult to resist the urge to shop but with our suitcases filled to the brim, I just couldn't risk pushing our luggage's capacity. 3) Big Sky Sports. Located in Vista Hall this one-stop shop has everything ski-related that you'll need for a great time on the mountain. From skis to coats to buffs Big Sky Sports has it all. 4) J.P. Woolies. Also located in Vista Hall this is the ultimate shop for a unique collection of Big Sky gear that isn't tourist tacky. In fact, I purchased my new favorite cap here (see below). I can't wait to walk around Manhattan with my Montana paraphernalia! J.P. Woolies also sells really special gift items that you aren't likely to find anywhere else. I guarantee you won't walk out their door without making a purchase. Five nights was just the right amount of time to soak in Big Sky's winter wonderland. My older son and I repeated ourselves often saying "I can't believe we are in Montana". Although technically, Washington is further from New York and we did travel there, Montana just seems more exotic to us. Because I am not a skier I would unlikely have ever planned a trip out here in the winter. That being said, I now crave a visit to Montana in the summer season (shhh, I may be conjuring up another excuse for road trip USA version 2). That's the really cool thing about a road trip and surrendering to the unknown; if you keep your tank full and your heart open to opportunities you will end up in places you would have least expected and then suddenly everything begins to feel possible.

  • Shakshukah Recipe

    Shakshuka is my favorite go-to recipe when I need to make a healthy meal quickly. This recipe is so easy to make, packed with flavor and protein, and can take on so many ingredients to transform to your every mood. The recipe is equally delicious the next day. Be creative and add ingredients that you'd enjoy. Sometimes I add spinach or kale. You can't go wrong. Almost everything goes with eggs! Also, I like to serve this meal with pita, tahini, Israeli pickles and homemade baked herbed fries. Ingredients (serves 5-6 people): 4 large cloves garlic- minced 3 tablespoons oil half a bunch cilantro- chopped fine (remove stems) one dozen eggs one small can tomato paste sliced jalapeno (if you like it spicy) 1/2 tsp cumin 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp paprika Using a large pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and mix quickly. Immediately after mixing, so garlic doesn't burn, add the tomato paste and 1/2 cup of water. Continue to stir thoroughly until a somewhat thick, but not too thick, consistency emerges. You can add more water as needed. The consistency should be similar to let's say... a marinara sauce. Once you have reached your desired consistency add the salt, pepper, cumin and paprika. Stir again. Carefully crack each egg over the sauce. Don't overlap the eggs- give them each their own prime real estate in the pan. Cover the pan and cook on medium-low for about 20 minutes. You can touch your egg yolk mid-cooking to see how well its cooked. If you like your eggs runny (I do!) then stop cooking when the egg whites have cooked through. If you prefer your eggs well-done, then keep cooking until the yolks are hard when touched. Once the cooking is completed, sprinkle with the cilantro and serve, eat and enjoy!

  • Vegetarian Chili Recipe

    This is probably the easiest recipe I can share with you. It can be prepared and served in under twenty minutes and will be devoured within sixty seconds. My family loves when I whip up a hot bowl of hearty chili garnished with cheese, sour cream and tortilla chips for dipping. It is delicious year round but extra yummy in the winter! Ingredients (yields six large bowls): 2 x 15oz cans of black beans 1 x 15oz can red kidney beans 1 x 15oz can chick peas 1 x 28oz can crushed tomatoes 3/4 - 1 cup x frozen corn kernels (add more or less depending on your preference) 4 x carrots peeled and diced 3/4 cup water or vegetable broth oil (canola, vegetable or even olive oil if that is all you have handy) 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp oregano 3 x bay leaves 1/4 tsp chili powder 3/4 tsp cumin 1 tsp paprika sour cream for garnish shredded cheddar cheese for garnish tortilla chips for garnish **Sometimes I may not have oregano so I will add garlic powder or onion powder instead. Sometimes I will add both even if I have oregano. Spruce it up based on the seasoning you like! If you like it spicy, add more chili powder, etc.** In a large pot heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add the diced carrots and lower heat to medium. Stir the carrots occasionally over five-seven minutes. In the meantime, empty out the four cans of beans into a colander and rinse well with water. Add the beans to the carrots along with the crushed tomatoes. Add the water/vegetable broth (feel free to add more liquid based on the consistency you like. I aim for a more chunky/hearty chili). Add the corn. Season. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, until carrots soften. Stir a couple of times during cooking. Taste for seasoning. Feel free to be creative with this recipe. You can add spinach to the pot. I have also added Morningstar Crumbles vegetarian meat to the recipe. Diced onion and minced garlic are also nice additions. There are many variations that will yield an equally delicious pot of chili. I am sharing the basic version of my recipe, which I use most often, and once in a while I add ingredients for a change in flavors. In the picture below, I made homemade tortilla chips because we didn't have bagged ones on hand. To make these follow an online recipe for flour tortillas. Make as directed. Then, cut the tortillas into triangle wedges and lightly fry them. Plate your chili into a bowl and garnish with a dollop of sour cream and shredded cheddar cheese. Place tortilla chips around the rim of the bowl. Voila! Enjoy!

  • Fresh Bagels for Brunch, Not as Hard as You Think!

    People are always very impressed that I regularly make fresh, homemade bagels for Sunday brunch. They are not as difficult to make as you'd think and yet they are so incredibly delicious. Imagine, hot bagels straight out of the oven still steaming as you slice through them. These never feel redundant no matter how often I make them and they are always received with much excitement and glee. I use THIS recipe which I find to be easy to follow and has yielded consistently delicious bagels. Below are some additional tips: I prepare the dough the night before and place it in a bowl, covered, in the fridge. This frees up the morning with less preparation and rising time. In the morning I remove the dough from the fridge, punch it to release air, and let it sit on the counter for 30-45 minutes before continuing with dividing the dough into eight pieces as noted in the recipe. When I do not have everything bagel seasoning on hand, I make my own by mixing minced garlic, poppy seeds, sesame seeds (white and black if possible), salt and pepper. Feel free to create your own mix of seasonings! Don't worry if your bagels don't roll into perfectly smooth balls. Mine often have cracks on the bottom. It's OK! Seriously, once in a while the dough does not cooperate and looks kinda funky but once they bake they work themselves out and no one ever cares if they are not perfect. I opt to boil them two minutes on each side, Siri helps me keep track of time. Half way through baking, I flip them over to make sure both sides get nice and crispy. Once they are golden (about 25 minutes of baking time), remove and let sit at least 10 minutes before cutting through. They are still baking. In our eagerness to dive right in we have found unbaked dough in the center. Patience, although difficult, is key. Exercise your will power! Be creative, you can add chocolate chips to the dough when you prepare it in step one. You can add more savory flavors like cumin seeds or keep them sweeter with raisins, cinnamon and honey. Really, just use the dough as a base and add any seasoning or ingredients to it as you mix it. I'd love to hear from you. Let me know how yours turned out. Did you make up your own seasoning combination? Did you try a new dough flavor? Enjoy. And you're welcome!

  • 2 Nights in Yosemite, CA

    We almost cancelled our stay in Yosemite because we wanted to extend our stay in Carmel by two more nights. Fortunately we convinced ourselves to stick to the original plan of visiting this popular national park. In a way, the mountainous environment with cool, brisk temperatures was a welcomed change from the coast that has been in our field of vision for the past few weeks. Yosemite National Park is probably the busiest destination we have been to yet. We were completely blocked out of one of the trailheads on our list due to full parking lots, despite trying several times throughout the day to snatch a spot. There were swarms of people enjoying the breathtaking landscape along with us everywhere we went. Although we found some nooks of solitude, overall the national park was meant to be shared with the thousands of others who came to connect with nature as well. The highlight of our visit here, and maybe the biggest adventure of our entire road trip to date, was when a black bear just ran into the windy streets of the park dodging our car by less than an inch. We all couldn't believe what we just witnessed. Major kudos are in order for my hubby who calmly hit the breaks in the nick of time! In addition to a bear we also came in contact with deer, a fox and a salamander. Two nights embraced by nature surrounded by the Sierra Nevada Mountains is one of the best weekend escapes I can think of for those who live nearby. El Capitan The vertical rock formation dominates the southern sites of Yosemite National Park. The 3,000 foot boulder is a popular rock climbing site. Recently, a world record was broken for the fastest female to climb to the summit. Although El Capitan is seen throughout the area from different vantage points, my favorite viewing spot was from a random, less known Yosemite Valley lookout point that only three others discovered to share the magnificent views with us. Seriously, if you head to Yosemite don't get trapped by the marked stops. Keep driving and you will find secluded areas to soak in the beauty. The top row of pictures are from The Tunnel View Lookout. There were droves of visitors all trying to snatch a great shot along with us. The second row of images, and in my opinion the much better ones, are from the undiscovered lookout point just a few miles away. Sentinel Bridge To get to this bridge visitors follow a long path along a meadow that offers great views of Half Dome, which at 8,800 feet tall is an iconic landmark at Yosemite. I especially enjoyed the peaceful views from the bridge, which we pretty much had to ourselves since everyone else was so wrapped up in photographing Half Dome (second row, middle photo) from the meadow. Curry Village A well-known affordable retreat with epic views of Half Dome that offers a great location at the base of Glacier Point, Curry Village has withstood the tests of time and has been a destination in Yosemite since 1899. Unfortunately, due to Covid, the entire grounds were closed. Regardless, it was fun to stroll through the endless rows of tents that have housed visitors for over a century and see the property that hosts Half Dome Village which normally is filled with stores, restaurants, events and wandering souls who have great travel stories to share. Bridalveil Fall There are many lookout points to enjoy the Bridalveil Fall. Once again we were lucky enough to find a nook where we not only enjoyed unobstructed views of the fall without hundreds of other tourists in sight, but we also found a lookout point that had a beautiful, pristine creek in the forefront. When you visit Yosemite, be patient. Trust that past the masses parked along well-known stops, you will find something even more majestic and serene, and less discovered just under a mile away. Merced River On the very start of the Mist Trail in Yosemite is a stunning trail along the Merced River. The waters are the clearest waters we have ever passed and the overall landscape kept us speechless. The trail itself was very busy with hundreds of people pouring into its path. Take the road less traveled. Just look for a small trail along the water and you will have it all to yourself. Tenaya Lodge I'm so happy that we selected Tenaya Lodge for our lodging during our stay in Yosemite. The Explorer Family Cabins are immaculate and modern while still providing a slightly chic, rustic feel. Each family cabin has two bedrooms, living area, bathroom, a small kitchen area and a private patio. Small groups of cabins share a large, outdoor fire pit for those nights that call for making smores. The main lodge is beautifully appointed with warm, country-esque décor and was eagerly decorated for the holidays during our stay. Because of the current pandemic many of the amenities that would normally be offered were not available, like archery and room service. However, the hotel did continue to offer great programs like flashlight stargazing walks which we signed up for immediately! We had a great guide who walked us deep into the woods with only the minimal illumination of our flashlights. We learned some great wilderness facts, spotted a salamander and gazed at a star studded sky. What a night! Overall, this is a wonderful choice when staying in the area. Jackalope's Tenaya Lodge's main restaurant has a beautiful ambience and great service but serves very mediocre food. We were really disappointed with our breakfast and made sure to avoid dining here for future meals. Cocktails by the outdoor fireplaces on their patio would be lovely. Otherwise, don't have high expectations for low quality food at high resort prices. The Ahwahnee Hotel After reading Small Fry, a memoir written by Steve Job's daughter, Lisa Brennan-Jobs, I wanted to visit the hotel famous for hosting his wedding. In true Job's fashion, the hotel is understated in a very alluring way. I was very unimpressed when we first entered the hotel lobby but after roaming the various halls and closely paying attention to the details in the interior decorating, I quickly fell in love with the space. We ate lunch at the dining hall which was self-seating with food ordered at a counter (due to Covid regulations). The food was ok but the grandiose and bright room made up for it. Although our homemade pretzel was not as good as the menu promised it to be, I enjoyed having its smiley face staring at me while I sipped my curry sweet potato soup. Ducey's Bar & Grill This lakeside restaurant is part of the Ducey's on the Lake property in a town called Bass Lake 20 minutes outside of Yosemite. It is one of those establishments that make you really happy to support and proud to be a patronize. The staff, from the moment we entered, was so friendly, eager to please and hard working. Our breakfast was delicious and we especially loved the lake views from their outdoor patio with warmth radiating from the heating lamps. I definitely recommend making the short drive over to experience pretty views and a great meal. Overall, Yosemite National Park was a great and memorable choice for a road trip stop. We cannot believe how insanely busy the park was and similarly, beginning Saturday evening, how many people were checking into our hotel. The line to check in literally wrapped around the spacious lobby. There is no sign of Newsom's restrictions here. No pandemic in the world will keep people away from this specific park. Our guide mentioned that summer brings more than quadruple the amount of visitors than this time of year. If you are planning a visit, I suggest visiting in October through beginning of November to beat the high season crowds. Unless you are an avid hiker, I think two nights is a great amount of time to visit. Of course, it is easy to linger here longer and just breath in the mountain air for as long as possible. My connection with Nature has grown fonder and stronger over the past several months. She has given me a sense of peace and confidence in her embrace that I have never experienced. Normally I am the gal who stays out of the woods yet months later I am walking into the woods in pitch darkness. I have learned to trust that the massive power of our Universe/Mother Nature/G-d (they all really are the same driving force in my opinion) is the greatest force that exists and so these days I have humbly just followed wherever I am being called even if it leads me to the most unexpected places.

  • 7 Nights in Portland, OR

    Portland surprised us with how much it has to offer. This little city in the Pacific Northwest packs a rather big punch. It provides abundant opportunities to connect with nature, is just a short drive to the coast, has easy access to Washington's many sites, boasts mild temperatures year round (by New York's standards), celebrates a thriving culinary scene and bursts with lots of character. Really, if it weren't for the 221 sunless days per year, super far left leaning folks who threaten to destroy the city, and the inundation of homeless people we would have placed this city at the top of our list. Ha! In all seriousness, I can totally imagine living here despite its flaws. Although the neighborhoods we visited were very quiet, most likely due to the pandemic, we could easily imagine how bustling and lively this city normally is. There are restaurants, bars, food trucks and anything food related you could hope for at every turn. The casual, laid back vibe of the city really has something for everyone's taste and the people here make it very clear that everyone is welcome. Throughout the city there are authentic reminders to be loving and kind citizens usually through beautifully painted murals. There is a tone that is set here: be a good person. The City of Bridges earns its name from the twelve bridges that cross the Willamette River. Each bridge has its own distinct character and some of them, like the newer Tilikum Bridge, even light up at night further beautifying the skyline. Portland has an industrial feel to it. The city itself is not a beautiful one per se but it does have a lot of charm and personality. The weather here is unpredictable forcing us to cancel a few of our sightseeing plans. As we drove to Silver Falls State Park suddenly a thick, white, paste-like looming fog made visibility of even just one inch in front of us impossible. We were just seven minutes away from the falls (after over an hour of driving to reach them) but were forced to turn around by the blinding whiteness that surrounded us. There is also rain. A lot of it. Yet without fail, the sun comes out everyday to say her hellos even if just momentarily. Due to the weather in Portland we relaxed a lot and indulged in three full home days which we relished after so much sightseeing the week before. I never thought I would end up in Portland and honestly I kept pinching myself while here- was I really here? Did we really drive all the way across the country to Portland? If it weren't for this road trip, I would have likely missed this city entirely. I am so happy we spent a week here to experience firsthand how special this place is. The Pittock Mansion Perched on a hill, this historic chateau in the West Hills of Portland offers private tours, forty-six acres of walking trails and the most incredible views of the city with Mount Hood dominating the horizon. We were really lucky to see the mountains on a clear day. Often, they are hidden by fog and clouds. What a stunning view! Beaverton Our house in Beaverton, Portland was the perfect retreat. We were nestled in nine acres of forested land allowing us to rest, recover and relax from a pretty vigorous schedule while we were in Gold Beach, OR. You can find this property on VRBO, ID# 7907348. The house is well stocked, spacious, immaculate and very comfortable. When our kids could not get a strong WiFi signal in their downstairs bedrooms the host immediately brought us an extender ensuring that they were capable to log into their school meetings during the week. Just last year I would have been petrified by the idea of sleeping in a large home in a forest. So much has changed. This city girl is slowly adapting to nature and sleeps like a baby while tucked in the woods. Alberta Arts District Alberta Street, in Northeast Portland, is packed with colorful murals, galleries, restaurants, bars and retail shops. I loved the vibrant vibe here even while its sidewalks were barren. With no one in site, the lively energy of the neighborhood seemed to seep through the buildings. It's just waiting, not-so-patiently, to serve the thousands of locals and tourists who frequent the area. Every single shop in this neighborhood, 100% of them, proudly posts a BLM sign on their window- many storefronts displaying other messages for justice along with it. When we pass through communities where all members participate in this movement I wonder how many of them are just dutifully following along versus how many of them fear the repercussions of not posting what is expected of them. This is definitely the part of Portland that earns the city's far left reputation. We spoke to a couple of locals who have lived in Portland for many years and they said that the people residing in this neighborhood are the people who are destroying their city and its values. Since we were lucky enough to spend a week in the city, I saw firsthand that most of Portland is not a loud, screaming group of people who threaten to cancel you from society if you don't succumb to their ideals by proving you do through visual representations. The majority of the folks here truly are very accepting of all walks of life, and don't need you, nor themselves, to post a sign to prove it. As we travel the country, we are finding that these neighborhoods with very loud voices are actually the smallest in numbers and are not as harmful as the media portrays. With all its political tones and quirks, I couldn't stop photographing this high-spirited neighborhood. Salt & Straw Salt & Straw is the most talked about ice-cream shop in Portland famous for its unique flavors (think honey lavender and olive oil ice cream). Of course, a visit here was on our agenda. I have never witnessed our children face such difficulty selecting an ice cream flavor- there truly are too many tempting ones to choose from! Finally we settled on eggnog (for me!) and three chocolate gooey brownie scoops. The flavors live up to their name, we all agreed these were some seriously unforgettable scoops. Mississippi Avenue Mississippi Avenue, in North Portland, is another example of a Portland neighborhood full of personality. Once one of the worst neighborhoods in the city, it has now claimed its stake as one of the trendiest. There is a hurtful history here of laws prohibiting the sale of property to blacks and Asians who were eventually displaced by gentrification. For a city that prides itself in social justice issues, I found it hard to believe that this piece of history was so quickly swept under the rug to make room for new, mostly White tenants and bars that cater to the hipsters in the area. Like most popular neighborhoods in the city, Mississippi Avenue is lined with local shops, restaurants, bars and food truck clusters. Similarly this historic avenue lacked the locals to stream down its sidewalks. We could only imagine how hopping Portland is under normal circumstances but unfortunately it has been marred by the pandemic keeping its folks presumably either indoors or with nature. Voodoo Doughnut No visit to Portland is complete without a stop in this doughnut shop that has a cult following. They offer sixty of the most creative flavor combinations that are playful and simply irresistible. We made a stop in their Old Town location where Voodoo was born. This area of the city is probably the worst impacted by the homelessness crisis. So much so that my younger kids didn't want to get out of the car, even with the promise of the best doughnut they may ever have waiting for them just a few feet away. The very pink, friendly storefront eased their nerves and ultimately they couldn't resist entering the bakery to see these beauties in person. One thing about Portland that I've noticed is that the hype never disappoints. You know how sometimes people rave about something- a food, a movie, etc...- and then you check it out and are like "eh"? Everything that is highly praised in this city lives up to the expectations. These doughnuts were everything we hoped for and more. Everyone ecstatically recommends the bacon maple bar but since three of us don't eat meat, we avoided this tip. Instead we sampled the School Daze, Marshall Mathers, Portland Cream and Sprinkle Cake. Yes, the voodoo worked, we were smitten with the sugary sweetness intertwined with the perfectly yeasted dough. Powell's City of Books When I learned that the world's largest independent book store is in Portland, I quickly added this stop to our itinerary. Four of us are avid readers and visiting a book store is as equally exciting to us as visiting a chocolate shop. The store takes up an entire city block and sells one million books throughout its 68,000 square feet and 3,500 sections. This is a bibliophile's fantasy land! The biggest challenge was not allowing the kids to purchase the books they eyed as they got lost strolling in the sections of the genres they like most. We took careful notes of their choices, the holidays are around the corner! I felt bad taking them to such an incredible store and not allowing them to purchase books, kind of torturous really, but our space is so limited with our suitcases exploding and they'll just have to wait until the holidays. The thing is, my kids are pretty awesome. They totally agreed that we have no space, even for books. I can't wait to surprise them. Mill's End Park Portland is known for its quirky and weird character, its part of the appeal here. The weirder the better. They even have a Freakybuttrue Peculiarium Museum which features all things bizarre (note: closed during Covid). Those in search of the strange can also visit Paxton Gate and pick up a jar of a cow fetus in formaldehyde (yup, this is true. We spent a solid amount of time balking at the unusual items for sale in the storefront display). Then there's Mill's End Park, the smallest park in the world measuring at two feet in diameter. I can't help but love the eccentricity of this town! Cartopia Food trucks are as ubiquitous as bridges in Portland and are woven into the culinary culture of the city. In fact, many food cart purveyors went on to open successful brick and mortar locations. Unlike Austin and New York City where mostly mobile trucks line up along street curbs to serve its hungry visitors, the trucks in Portland are clustered together in these food truck communities closed off from the main street. The pods of trucks create their own atmosphere with music, fire pits and communal seating (closed during the pandemic). We headed over to Cartopia, in Southeast Portland, and couldn't resist ordering several orders of vegetarian gravy doused poutine at Potato Champion. Delicious and spicy, I loved every bite which took me back to December of 2019 where we munched on poutine in its homeland of Canada. Once again, Cartopia was quiet, we were the only ones in site. In fact, several of the trucks were closed. It's so sad to see firsthand how some cities are completely affected by the pandemic while others seem to have avoided an economic crash entirely. Portland, second to Memphis, is one of the most visibly affected cities that we have visited during the pandemic. The governor has ordered a no dine-in restriction, allowing restaurants to only serve take out. Not seeing sidewalk patios packed with diners as we have seen in other large cities really impacts the overall feel here. Willamette Valley There are endless activities to enjoy outside of Portland from hikes, whitewater rafting, and skiing to beaches and vineyards. Willamette Valley, approximately an hour away, takes you to another world of grape vines, green valleys and breathtaking vineyards. Bethel Heights The hostess of this lovely vineyard invited us in to explore the property while kindly reminding us that she is unable to serve us a wine tasting. Under Oregon Covid restrictions the vineyards can only sell wine bottles to go. She shared with us how much the pandemic has financially impacted their sales. She also shared that this time last year her terrace was filled with visitors. My heart truly breaks for the business owners who are suffering so greatly during these times. During our travels I have become actively conscious of how our purchases are helping boost the livelihood of others. It actually feels good to spend money these days. I loved our chat with the hostess here. I tend to chat with everyone along our journey enjoying their perspectives and insight which have greatly shaped my own. The estate bottle of pinot noir was thoroughly enjoyed by our fireplace later that evening as we contemplated all that is taking place in our country and world. Cannon Beach Less than ninety minutes away, an entirely different landscape along the coast awaits for the city folks who yearn for the seaside. We spent a couple of afternoons exploring the beautiful towns and sites along the northern Oregon coast. See my separate post on Northern Oregon Coast for more pictures and details. Here is a little taste for now. Columbia River Gorge Approximately forty five minutes outside Portland a windy, scenic drive awaits all those on a waterfall chasing adventure. None of the falls listed below require any extensive hiking. In fact, besides Bridal Veil Falls they are all right off the main road. I met locals via Instagram who were extremely helpful in making great suggestions. They, like us, are from New York but said they moved to Oregon just three months after their visit here and that the Columbia River Gorge is what pulled them to this side of the country. It truly is that spectacular of an area. I can totally relate to why they fell madly in love with Oregon after a day embraced by waterfalls. There are over ninety waterfalls just on the Oregon side of the river. Ninety waterfalls?! Vista House At a whopping $100,000 construction fee (in 1917!) this outhouse was termed by locals as "Oregons most expensive bathroom". Over one hundred years later, the lovely structure welcomes visitors as they enter the gorge while boasting incredible views of the Columbia River. I read that this is the windiest part of the gorge but in no way did I imagine that I may face my death here or put my children in harms way. The wind was so strong and powerful that me and two of my kids were literally being blown around when wind came through. At one point my daughter was struck with panic as she held on for her dear life to the railings that guard the Vista House. We were stuck holding on for what seemed like eternity waiting for a hurricane strength wind gust to pass so we could make a run for our car where my husband and other son were waiting (they were deterred by the wind when they first attempted to leave the car). Seeing our panic and sensing that we were in danger my amazing husband came to rescue us while he too struggled to stay standing. If the drop into the river wasn't so high, maybe the experience would have been much calmer but boy did I have a moment of strongly regretting coming here. Latourelle Falls Bridal Veil Falls Horsetail Falls Multnomah Falls There was so much more to see and explore around the Portland area. The list of activities is honestly endless. We were so comfortable in the home we rented and the overcast skies encouraged us to stay put and relax more than we planned to. Traveling here, across the country has really felt like we have crossed the world. It is easy to stay complacent and comfortable in the places we feel safest or make up many excuses to not push through the norms we have accepted in our lives. However, it is only when we leave these comfort zones that we can directly experience the many blessings our earth has granted us and to connect with people and souls who teach us new perspectives. Through physical journeys we slowly begin to embark on spiritual ones as well. There have been many times over the last hundred and thirty-seven days of our road trip when my husband and I have wanted to cancel something on our itinerary because mostly we were being lazy and just wanted to stay home. We have noted each time how happy we were that we didn't let these voices dictate our decision because we would have missed out on an incredible experience. Pushing through is difficult, in all aspects of our lives. It would have been so easy to stay home and do nothing, but how much we would have missed if we didn't dare to wander? Too much to type...

  • 2 Nights in Port Angeles, WA

    We weren't quite ready to peel away from the Pacific Northwest coastline after it won us over while we traveled in Oregon. I booked us a last minute stop on Washington's Olympic Peninsula in hopes of gaining more time immersing ourselves in the bountiful sites and sounds of nature in this part of the country. Although we only got a sneak peek of the gorgeous surroundings that are tucked in the Olympic National Park, I am so grateful we got a taste of this stunning side of the state. Knowing nothing about this area, I chose Port Angeles because if its close proximity to the park's many attractions as well as for the town's waterfront appeal. We booked Sea Retreat, through Vrbo, and couldn't have been happier with our choice. The house is beautifully appointed, spacious and spotless with an entire game room that kept us entertained on a Sunday evening. In addition, the house boasts unobstructed views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We wish we had more time in the house to really utilize all its amenities. In fact, we planned to explore the area more deeply than we did but the house just kept calling our name. In hopes of striking a balance we cut our excursion goals in half in order to relax in this retreat as much as possible. Port Angeles has a small stretch along Front Street with restaurants, shops, etc... Admittedly, it is not as charming as some of the other coastal towns we have explored. There is an industrial feeling to the area with a large factory stationed along the water's edge polluting the air and seemingly pristine waters. Despite this, it is a perfect base to discover the wonderland that awaits in Olympia National Park and is an ideal launching pad to explore the great outdoors. One evening when my husband and I were sitting outside enjoying the sounds of the crashing waves hitting our back yard, I noticed what looked like a rather large flame a few hundred feet away. We couldn't quite make out what we were seeing so I went inside to put on my glasses in hopes of more clarity. The ball of fire was actually the moon taking on the color of the sun resembling a fire ball floating in the night sky. Once again, the Pacific Northwest pulls out more magical moves to impress even though at this point I need absolutely no more convincing of how truly spectacular our beautiful earth is. Lake Crescent Over eleven miles of unimaginably pristine waters are tucked inside Olympia National Park. The exceptionally clear blue (and in some places green) hues of the lake are a direct result of a lack of nitrogen in the waters which stops the growth of algae. We explored the lake from many angles and were blown away by the beauty before us no matter the perspective we were viewing it from. Highway 101 hugs along the lake with many viewing points. In addition to the many look out points along the road we hoped to hike along the Moments in Time Trailhead but it was closed. We considered walking the Marymere Falls Trail instead, which along with breathtaking lake views also offers sightings of a waterfall. Unfortunately I was outnumbered with no one wanting to join me on the 2.5 mile hike. Instead, we enjoyed more stunning views of the lake at the very beginning of the Marymere Trailhead and stayed there for quite some time soaking in the scenery and learning lake facts that are posted on the trail head bulletin. Rialato Beach Rialto Beach is a quick, 10 minute drive from La Push, *note* La Push is on tribal land and is closed during the pandemic. I have written a lot about our close encounters with nature's powerful forces while we roamed the Pacific Northwest. The most ominous location we have visited yet is at Rialto Beach. There are signs warning of the worst kinds of imminent dangers at every turn: quick forming tsunamis within minutes of an earthquake, logs that are not seen in the water during high tide that roll over swimmers injuring and sometimes killing them, sneaker waves that come ashore to whisk those who dare walk too close and fogs that make visibility difficult leading to confusion. Despite the inundation of looming threats, this beach is so damn beautiful. The monochromatic color scheme perfectly adds to the eerie and spooky tone of the landscape. Yet, if you take a minute to respect nature's signs and signals, and more importantly heed them all, suddenly its warnings dissipate and comforting things begin to appear, like heart-shaped stones. Pure magic. Forks There is so much buzz around this town mainly because Twilight, a popular book series and movie, put it on the map. Before the movie came out, no one knew about this tiny Washington town. Today, tourists flock to Forks for Twilight Tours, Twilight Fests and for actor meet and greets. As a caveat, I should mention that none of us have read the series nor seen the movie. Regardless, since it kept appearing in our searches of "what to do" in the area we drove on over and then just kept on driving... right out. Sorry, there was whatsoever no appeal in this city to us. On a better note, we will finally watch the movie on our next family movie night. Maybe then we will understand the town better... Words cannot describe how truly sad I am to begin driving away from the western coastline. We have had it alongside us for the past month and I have felt its strong embrace the entire time. I know now more than ever that I am a gal of the sea, it just speaks to me. The nature along the Pacific Northwest is indescribable but more so it is impactful. It has humbled me. I now find myself surrendering to the forces of the universe rather than the forces in my mind. Things that once seemed monumental appear so trivial these days. I have forced myself to reflect more than ever on who I want to be while on this planet. More importantly, I have deeply contemplated new ways to give back to this world that gives us so much. My heart is heavy as I type my closing post on a place that has opened my soul to new beginnings and new possibilities. The prospect of these new possibilities are helping me face our next adventures with more eagerness and enthusiasm. But in all honesty, my heart is still with the ragingly beautiful waters that thrash along the sea stacks forcing its viewers to pay attention to their actions, their words, their thoughts. I swear, these waters know when you have heard their messages. As soon as my soul absorbed the words of the sea, I was always rewarded with a waterfall, a special shaped stone, a wildlife sighting. We formed a strong connection here, me and the Pacific. It's going to be difficult to physically leave her but in reality she is already a part of me now and will be with me along the rest of my journeys. Even the ones beyond this road trip.

  • How to Take a Road Trip While Kids are Learning Remotely

    Many of you have asked me how we are managing remote learning while we are on the road. Here are a few of the things we keep in mind as we strive to maintain a healthy learning environment while the kids learn remotely in fifth, seventh and ninth grade. 1) We don't travel or move through states during the school week. We leave major explorations or traveling between states to the weekends. During the school week we stay put and enjoy the local surroundings without taking any major excursions. Now that school has begun we will be staying in one place for at least one week at a time. 2) We are currently in Central Standard Time which means we are an hour behind their NYC school schedule. Because of the time difference, we have to wake up earlier than usual so that all three kids are ready for their first zoom meeting at 7:30 am CST. Next week we will begin to head west which will surely pose a challenge as we will need to wake up earlier and earlier as we cross the country. The good news is, they will finish school early leaving ample time for hikes and explorations during the weekdays! 3) Before booking a house, I ensure that there is a strong WiFi signal. With five of us on the computer throughout the day, a strong signal is crucial! 4) Staying organized is a must. I have all three of their schedules at hand and review them each morning in order to anticipate any breaks or down time. Lucky for me, they each have a different lunch break. Rather than all eating lunch together, I find myself making back to back lunches in the late morning/early afternoon. Learning remotely while on a road trip is really quite manageable. NYC schools are currently all remote so our kids don't feel like they are missing the opportunity to see their friends. Many of their peers opted for remote only learning throughout the year. When school resumes, they will be part of the majority that learns remotely too. This knowledge has really helped appease any ideas of "missing out" or wanting to return to school. They are extremely happy with the opportunity to explore the USA while studying online. On the other hand, we are also aware that they will be ready to head back to NYC as soon as schools return to what they call "normal" (will this ever happen? what will the new "normal" be?) Ideally, a remote learning student will work at a desk in a quiet environment. While we are able to provide each of them a quiet environment, it has proven difficult to find a home that suits us that also has three desks. As of now, one child has a desk in his room, another child works in the dining room, and the third child works in his room with out a desk. In the next house I booked, no one will have a desk. We will have to find creative ways for them to each find a quiet nook at a table. For obvious reasons I don't like the idea of one of them sitting hunched over their computer on their bed or floor. They can't share the dining room table because of all the live meetings taking place. Unfortunately, at least one child gets the floor/bed as their workspace and we will rotate this less than ideal environment among them until we are able to score a home with more tables in separate spaces. Because of the time difference, they have been finishing their school day at 1:30pm CST. An early end to the day leaves me scrambling for ways to keep them busy and entertain them for long periods of time. When we were bouncing around cities and states the days went by faster and were filled with activities. Nowadays the days seem longer leaving me having to direct everyone in tasks and schedules during the seven-eight hours that are left vacant before their bed time. After this week I may have to return to some homeschooling and spend an hour or two teaching them myself as I did when the pandemic first broke. I am taking this week to mentality prepare for that reality. Overall, the transition to learning on the road has been a smooth one. I am so grateful for their wonderful teachers who have launched a meaningful curriculum that fills their days. I am also filled with gratitude that they are able to learn firsthand, outside of school, about our beautiful country. It has been a wonderfully educational experience for them, and us as well. Mostly I am thankful for strong WiFi signals because with out a strong connectivity, none of this would be possible!

  • Best Ever Matzo Ball Soup Recipe

    I've been told that my matzo ball soup is pretty fantastic. It has easily appeared in dozens of meals and fed hundreds of people. I am often asked for this recipe that soothes the soul, warms the heart and ignites conversation at a dinner table. Here it is! Serves 5-6 people Ingredients: 2 full tablespoons of Osem soup and seasoning mix (vegetable/vegetarian) *crucial ingredient, available on Amazon* Streit's Matzo ball box ( I use two packets which yields 8-9 large balls) pre-cut squash pack 4 thinly sliced carrots 1/4 teaspoon turmeric 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons oil (I use canola) Directions: Make "batter" following the box's directions. Do not use the seasoning that comes in box, only follow the matzo ball mix instructions and discard seasoning packs. Heat oil and add the squash and carrots. Saute and stir for approximately five minutes. Fill pot 3/4 way with water. Bring to a boil. Add the Osem mix, salt and turmeric. Shape your matzoh balls from batter to your preference size, keeping in mind that they will expand in cooking process. Lower heat and simmer for an hour turning balls over half way through. Taste to preference, sometimes a dash or two of salt is necessary. I can't recall how many times this simple recipe has appeared on my menu to deserving guests who delight in these fluffy balls that are immersed in a tasty broth. My kids love the balls. My friends love the balls. I love the balls. Enjoy!

  • One Night in Las Vegas, NV, What to do in Sin City With Kids

    The last time we visited Las Vegas with two other couples was quite a different experience than traveling here with our three children this time around. Let's just keep it at that. We thought it would be fun to make a quick stop in Vegas for Halloween weekend while also cutting our drive into California the next day by a couple of hours. Seeing Las Vegas through our children's eyes was exciting, dramatic and scary too. They were blown away by the thematic hotels that span several blocks, the large crowds, the bright lights, the flashy cars, the casinos and the endless fun activities for all ages. In contrast, they were repelled by the many shady characters, drunk behavior, scanty attires, and several folks with severe psychological issues who yelled their rants into the streets. When we first arrived they wished we booked two nights instead of one. By the time we left they said they were happy we were leaving. Vegas is a lot to absorb. With all its excitement and glory comes a glimpse into darker lives. Turns out one night was a perfect amount of time to acquaint ourselves with both aspects before becoming overwhelmed. I can't believe how much we fit in into twenty hours. On the day we arrived we logged over seven miles of walking on the strip. Despite the pandemic there were thousands of people out and about. Surprisingly the vast majority of them were wearing masks. We couldn't believe how packed it was with others visiting for the weekend. The strip is most beautiful at night when it lights up and hotels offer spectacular outdoor shows for pedestrians. Everything is so over-the-top, ostentatious and perfectly thought out. It truly is a Disney World for adults and kids alike! A part we enjoyed most in Vegas was exploring the different hotels and seeing how they pay homage to the cities they are designed after. Epcot popped into my mind a lot, its been years since I have been there and I think the experience is pretty similar? I can't quite remember. Caesers Palace (Rome) One of the larger hotels on the strip, Caesers masterfully captures the essence of Rome in design and famous landmarks. Paris Hotel We enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the Paris Hotel at Mon Ami Gabi. We dined on their large outdoor patio underneath the Eiffel Tower enjoying a true Parisian morning. The food was tres magnifique! New York - New York New York couldn't be missed while exploring the strip. The hotel skillfully creates authentic scenes straight out of New York City which made us all a bit nostalgic and missing home a bit. From the brownstones to the cobble streets and the Brooklyn Bridge to the Statue of Liberty, this hotel struck a chord in all of our hearts and together we went down memory lane listing all the things we miss about home. The Venetian Hotel (Venice) We booked our rooms at this central hotel that we found to be beautiful and very well operated. The kids fell in love with The Grand Canal section of the hotel which has done such a wonderful job replicating Venezia with gondola rides and all! Also important to note is how seriously the hotel is handling the pandemic. There were hundreds of staff members at every corner wiping down surfaces like the conveyor hand rests on escalators and pressing elevator buttons for guests to minimize contact. Hand sanitizing stations are found every few feet and everyone was wearing a mask. Despite the huge crowds we felt very safe in Las Vegas, Covid wise. So far, Sin City has the best pandemic practices we have seen yet. We booked our rooms in The Palazzo building of the hotel, which is a newer building and also a quieter part of the hotel. The rooms at the hotel were spacious and spotless. We were able to get connecting rooms for a fee of $11 per room. Although this is a minimal fee, it is the first time we were ever charged to connect rooms. My husband and I went downstairs for a couple of hours to enjoy the atmosphere filled with gamblers and those heading to the nightclub. I played my $20 bill at a slot machine but had no luck winning this time around. That's ok, being here with my family was a win in itself. The Bellagio The Bellagio offers a spectacular outdoor fountain show every day, all day long. The playful show included the water "dancing" flirtatiously to the Pink Panther theme song. The show is fun, humorous and absolutely beautiful. The Mirage The Mirage also offers a daily show in the evenings only. Starting 8:00pm a volcano erupts on the hour. This fire show also appeals to all ages and is a fun way to enjoy the strip. Black Tap When we notcied Black Tap, a New York City favorite milkshake joint, was in our hotel we ran over to order some of the most insanely over the top milkshakes, in true Vegas form! The kids were ecstatic upon the arrival of these delicious monsters. Enjoying them while the gondoliers of Venice serenaded their customers added to the fun. El Segundo Sol For dinner we gobbled up a delicious Mexican meal at El Segundo Sol. Considering the large masses of people dining at the restaurants in Vegas, it is impressive that some restaurants can still deliver delicious food and great service. My mezcal margarita was perfectly balanced and the chef even made me a special hot sauce. This is a great choice for great food and people watching. The vegetable and mahi mahi tacos were terrific. Fashion Show Hotel Since it was Halloween weekend after all, I looked for an activity that was kid friendly to get in the spirit. The Fashion Hotel offered a Trick or Chic "haunted house" where a guide walked one family at a time through their spooky space. The tour was more comedy that scary, which was also a welcomed treat. So much has changed since the last time my husband and I went to Vegas. It almost seems like a life time ago. Coming with our children was fun and exciting. We also had our parents' lens on seeing the world of drunks and a whole lot of inappropriate behavior and attire through their eyes. Still, I think Vegas is a great place to take older children since there is so much for them to see and enjoy. If anything, seeing all the crazies is a great lesson on drug and alcohol abuse and inappropriate behavior. Watching people making fools of themselves will hopefully make a mark when they have to make decisions as adults. With rollercoasters, ziplines, and beautiful pools at the hotels, families can easily spend two nights here. Viva Las Vegas!

  • What Not to Miss on the Pacific Coast Highway

    We spent eight hours exploring what would normally be less than a five hour stretch on the Pacific Coast Highway between Santa Barbara to Carmel. We could have easily enjoyed a few more hours savoring the gorgeous views and stopping at more lookout points. I recommend setting aside ten hours to fully experience this part of the Californian coast, even more if you plan to stop somewhere for lunch (which we did not). If you can spend a night or two working your way up, even better. You will not lack sights to discover. The windy, narrow roads perched hundreds of feet above the bluest seas add to the adventure of this non-stop scenic drive. I find it unfathomable that eight hours along the Pacific Coast can offer such an infinite variety of breathtaking beauty without ever getting redundant. There was not one dull moment during the drive. In fact, there is no Wi-Fi on the majority of the highway which allows drivers to fully take in the vistas in all their glory without itching for their iPhone. Our first stop along the route was at Madonna Inn in Obispo, CA. This kitschy little inn puts Serendipity's in New York City to shame. It is full of whimsical character, charm and a packed café. In fact, it was so busy that we felt uncomfortable waiting for our to-go coffees and hot chocolates at the bar. Their gorgeous cakes must be so delicious that even Covid can't keep diners away! The very pink next door dining room was less crowded and offered much more social distancing. The inn is a really fun stop to stretch your legs and peruse through the property's charming gardens and fantastical décor. San Simeon My husband and I stopped in this town twenty years ago when we drove through the PCH from Los Angeles to San Francisco. It was a rainy afternoon, we had no children, no pre-booked hotel and no agenda except to stop when we felt like a break. We chose San Simeon as a rest stop for the evening and we remember sitting in our patio staring into the sea while it rained around us. So much has changed twenty years later except for the Pacific Ocean who stands as majestic and glorious as she did those few decades ago. Piedras Blancas Rookery We spent at least forty five minutes staring at the seals as they soaked in the sun while they napped. Some seals kept throwing dirt on their backs, some snored, some managed to inch a few inches during their slumber in search of a better position, some basked in isolation but mostly they all snuggled and cuddled in the cutest way imaginable. There were hundreds of seals sprawled along the shore. The kids got a kick out of watching them and quite frankly so did I. State Route 1 State Route 1, AKA Pacific Coast Highway, yields endless opportunities to pull over, perch yourself on a cliffside and just stare Mother Nature in the eyes. Really, just unbelievable bounty of beauty. McWay Falls On the coast of Big Sur pours a waterfall from a height of eighty feet. The waterfall flows into the Pacific Ocean year round. I think I could watch it empty into the ocean every single day and never get bored of the sight of the two bodies of water connecting in perfect harmony. When we were in Tobago Island in Panama a few years ago we were fortunate to watch another waterfall pour into the sea. Yet, there is something so magical about McWay Falls and the surrounding colors of the aqua waters, golden sand and white foam that makes this spot truly stand out. Bixby Creek Bridge Bixby is one of the most photographed bridges in the USA. Once you'll arrive, you will understand why. The epic scenery embracing the already magnificent design of the bridge just screams for attention. It is no wonder why the PCH is known to be one of the most remarkable highways in the world and on many people's bucket list. Because our lunch plans fell through due to a wait time of over ninety minutes at the restaurant we had in mind, we all got hangry at a certain point. If it wasn't for the sudden crash in our energy we would have easily spent several more hours noting the ways the clouds touch the sea at certain spots, the way the sky and ocean meet at the horizon giving the illusion that the earth abruptly comes to an end, the way the water suddenly turn aqua or how some rocks that emerge from the water are so white they seem drenched in snow. Most importantly, I could have used a few more hours practicing humility while breathing the salty air. The drive is a wonderful reminder of how small we are in this great big world yet how big our purpose should be to earn our place in it.

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