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- Northern Oregon Coast, Best Towns & Sites to Visit
The entire coast of Oregon overflows with non-stop breathtaking landscapes. From Brookings in the south to Astoria in the north, and everything in between, the coast is a destination in itself where one can easily spend a month here savoring the flavors of each town and the remarkable sites. Like the southern part of the coast, the Pacific Ocean continues to thrust herself forcefully with pounding waves making for a beautifully dramatic landscape although the waters seemed to slowly calm as we headed north. The beauty is so intense along the route, at times it is incomprehensible. We split our time along the northern part of the coast in two very full afternoons (the southern part of the coast was explored over five days earlier in the road trip). The first day on the northern coast was explored via our stay in Portland when we visited the sites between Devil's Cauldron and Cannon Beach. The latter part of the northern coast was explored on our way to Washington from Portland. Here we started in Seaside and worked our way up to Astoria. The 101, beginning in southern California and ending in Washington, is my favorite highway of all time and cannot be beat in terms of views, history, landscapes and adventures - especially once you hit the northern route of the highway, which is mainly emphasized along the coast of Oregon. Simply incredible. Devil's Cauldron Off the highway in Oswald West State Park is a gravel pull out with a sign marked for Elk Meadow Trailhead. This can be confusing if you are looking for the Devil's Cauldron, but rest assured, you're at the right spot. As you'll proceed, the trail is better marked and will direct you to the look out point accordingly. The trail is a .5 mile, steep and muddy walk to the cliff but rather easy overall. The ocean swells create a boiling like effect as they hit the sea stacks, thus the name. There is an ominous vibe here that can't be dodged. Firstly, there are multiple warning signs along with ropes keeping people away from the dangerous ledge of the cliff, which is perched at over seven hundred feet above the angry waters. Secondly, as I looked down, into the cauldron, once more I contemplated the sheer force and power intrinsically engrained all around me. Yes, Mother Nature is stunning but make no mistake, her wrath is extremely destructive and I always want to be on her good side. Finally, there was a memorial set up for a man who recently, just two months ago, plunged to his death as the tree branch he sat on snapped while he was being photographed. I feel a responsibility to share his story because it is now part of my story. I cried when I read about Steve Gastelum's death. I thought about him all evening. I am writing about him now. Somehow, I feel extremely connected to this stranger. Perhaps it is because he was forty-three, about the same age as me. Perhaps it is because, like me, he simply came to enjoy this incredible spot with no anticipation of how fragile his next few moments would be. Perhaps I continue to think about this man because his death reminds me of how precious our living moments are and that at any moment in time we too can plunge to our deaths. For some of us the end will be sooner, but we will all face it at one point. Maybe I feel connected to him because we are all connected. Just by being at the same place, we both had something in common beyond just our age. My oldest son and I also had a tiff at this site. He made a rude comment suggesting that I am insincere when crying at this man's loss of life while then photographing his memorial site. Already in an emotional state, my reaction was as tumultuous as the waters below me. I was very upset with him and then ultimately myself for reacting in the way I did. There was a lot of emotion churning inside me at Devil's Cauldron. The strikingly fatal landscape reminded me to hold on to my moments more tightly and then to each other even more firmly, even those we haven't met yet, because at the end of the day, strangers do not exist in this strange journey of life. Hug's Point State Recreation Site The scenic beauty here is overwhelming. In one relatively small area vegetated hills come together along a shore that is lined with volcanic rocks. In this special place a creek trickles into the sea as a waterfall pours into the ocean just a few feet away. Everything comes together so majestically, so perfectly. It is possible to walk along the shore during low tide and see the water fall from up close, even walk through the arches. The timing didn't work out for us tide wise. Instead, we found a trail off the parking lot that guided us to a lookout point safely from above. The trail is hard to find as shrubbery blocks the path. As you go up the hill, look for the path to your right as the path nears its end. Don't be deterred by the vegetation, just brush it aside gently and make your way through. Ecola State Park/ Indian Beach In retrospect, we should have set aside several hours just to explore this park and its many trails. I am running out of words to describe the landscape of the Oregon coast. Surreal, fantasy like, magical, overwhelming, humbling, stunning, mesmerizing, bewitching... I have already used them all. In a land where rivers, creeks and waterfalls ubiquitously drip into the sea and where jungles and rain forests dot the coast, strange things begin to happen internally- in my mind and soul. The moment it hits you, the moment you realize the strength, possibility and power behind nature's beauty, you will be forever changed. It is inevitable. There are many paths throughout the park. We briefly explored an uphill one towards the lighthouse which gave us an unreal perspective of the world beneath us. We also walked a trail into the jungle which reminded us all of the lush jungles of Panama. Finally, we took the stairs leading to the beach and just stood sea side for what seemed like eternity, but could have easily been five minutes as well. When you are hypnotized you lose all track of time. To the right we found the hard to find waterfall that we tried to locate earlier without luck as we were misguided by various posts. Just when we gave up on the search, it appeared before us. To see the bodies of water connecting is miraculous. Our kids found rocks that leave their trace and they drew on the overturned tree trunks, marking their names. The rocky landscape where The Goonies was shot added to a scenery that seemingly could only be created by Hollywood. In fact, this very spot is so impactful that many other films were chosen to be shot here- Twilight, Kindergarten Cop, Point break... When seeking other-worldly and fantastical, you come to the coast of Oregon. Haystack Rock/ Cannon Beach Haystack Rock rises two hundred and thirty feet from the shoreline. Its dominating presence is somehow gentle and inviting as it shares its home with the calmest waters we have yet to see on this part of the coast. The massive rock is one of the most popular attractions on the Oregon coast and is also another film location for a scene in The Goonies. The reflection of the rocks here are so clear and obvious. They extend an invitation of sorts to look at our own reflections and stare deeper into ourselves to figure out who we want to be during this short time on this magical planet. Cannon Beach One of my favorite coastal towns, Cannon Beach was brightly lit and ready for the holiday season. The main street is lined with adorable stores, artisan shops and restaurants. It is a very well-maintained city with beautiful wainscotted architecture and chatty locals who are friendlier than most. This town just exudes warmth, hospitality and overall great vibes. Bruce's Candy Kitchen (Cannon Beach) I've written about my penchant for shopping at every local chocolate and candy shop I pass. Bruce's Candy Kitchen is a playful shop with every brand of candy you can think of along with their own homemade specialties. We heard that their peanut butter filled, chocolate dipped Oreo cookies are to die for so we naturally indulged ourselves. Yes, they are oh soooooooo good! We also picked up a bag of cookies and cream popcorn (just because we never imagined that this even existed) and a bag of their Chicago mixed popcorn (which is a mix of their cheddar and caramel corn popped masterpieces). I get giddy with joy whenever we come across these delicious finds! Pelican Brewing (Cannon Beach) We missed the opportunity to dine at their Pacific City location so we made it a point to grab some grub at this spot that locals rave about. My husband and son loved their "famous" clam chowder soup and the kids devoured the mac and cheese, which uses cheese from nearby Tillamook Cheese Factory. We also noshed on some crunchy onion rings served with a delicious, spicy homemade sauce and the General Tsao's cauliflower. Great vibe, location, food and service! Not surprising as they all seem to come together naturally in this town. Seaside We quickly noted the characteristics that make this a popular beachside destination. Seaside proudly maintains its 1920's architecture while making room for new construction along Broadway, its main drag. The stretch is filled with shops, cafes and several fun activities catered towards children like bumper cars and an arcade. As a kid, this would have definitely been a dreamy summer destination. In fact, I love it as one even as a grown up. Seaside is another favorite town of ours along the coast of Oregon. Wreck of the Peter Iredale In a land of waterfalls, beaches, rainforests, canyons and jungles, shipwrecks also plant themselves along the shore. There is just no way to escape a dramatic landscape anywhere along the coast of Oregon. The ruined ship has been abandoned since 1906 as it was trying to make its way to the Columbia River and now rests in the sand at Fort Stevens State Park for visitors to marvel at along a gorgeous stretch of beach with calm waters and dunes. Astoria The Goonies, a pretty epic film made in the 80s, was mainly shot in this coastal town. Fans can make their way through the city visiting Mikey's house, Mikey's dad's workplace, the county jail where Ma and Francis Fratelli help Jake escape and the bowling alley where Chunk has his temper tantrum. If you're not a fan of the movie, there is still plenty to enjoy in Old Town and along the Riverwalk. If I haven't yet convinced you that Oregon is a place of whimsical tales, fantasies and magic, maybe this little anecdote will help. As soon as we entered Astoria we were pulled over by a police officer for apparently speeding (driving 45 mph in a 35 mph zone). This was our first time being pulled over on the entire road trip, my husband is a meticulous driver. Yet, we encountered the friendliest officer who dutifully asked us to produce our license, registration and proof of insurance while carrying a lengthy and friendly conversation with us as we gathered the paperwork. After he checked out our records, he returned to the car with our documentation and let us go ticket-free. Now, if this doesn't convince you of Oregon's other-worldliness, I don't know what else will.... The Astoria Column This unusual structure was built in 1926 by the Great Northern Railway in commemoration of the city and the hardworking men who built the railroads that passed through it. At 125 feet high, the observation deck offers panoramic views of the surrounding vistas. Unfortunately, during Covid, the tower is closed for climbing. However, the views are still there to soak in and admire. Bowpicker Fish & Chips We were really excited to pick up the highly acclaimed fish and chips at Bowpicker's while we were strolling the Riverwalk in Astoria. I rarely write bad reviews and I feel bad doing so. On the other hand, I also feel like I am doing people a service by informing them of what to really expect if they choose to eat at this stationary boat converted into a small frying kitchen. There is a lot of hype around this fish & chips shack. When we arrived at 11:30am there was already a long line formed with about thirty people in front of us. As we inched our way towards the ordering window I really started to second guess eating here. There were cobwebs all over the boat truck (think food truck in a boat shape). The hand sanitizers, signs and condiments left on the counters looked like they were there for over a decade. The smell of the fryer wafting outside the window was making me nauseous. I thought I was being a food snob so I toughed it out and convinced myself this would be an amazing meal. It wasn't. I had two bites of my fish and one French fry and handed the rest to my husband who then dealt with stomach issues all day. As you can see in the pictures, the place looks cute, their prices are great and their reviews are wonderful. Maybe its just me? Maybe it was just the day we went? Or maybe, it just really isn't wise to eat here. We have had much better fish & chips in less-known Oregon restaurants. From Astoria we started making our way up towards Washington. Highway 101 continued to mesmerize us with its windy roads and beautiful views while it hugged Hood Canal until it dropped us off in Port Angeles. Although there are countless coasts that are quite beautiful in the world, the coast of Oregon is just on a whole other level. Added to its scenic grandeur are the countless charming towns that dot the sea and the endless miracles that await to be witnessed along the way. If you don't believe in miracles or magic, you will after spending some times here. I promise.
- Carrot Salad, Easy & Delicious Recipe
My daughter especially loves this salad. Because it is so healthy and easy to make, I love making it for her! I also enjoy making this salad because it is my grandmother's recipe. Whenever I prepare it I feel connected to her even though she is thousands of miles away. I have been eating this salad since I am a little girl. It brings back memories of many meals with my large, extended family throughout my childhood. Now, this dish has become part of my own children's childhood and has made its way to many family meals in our own home. Ingredients (yields 5 small side servings): *I always double up because this holds well in fridge for up to five days easily* 1 x 1lb bunch of carrots, peeled and sliced into semi-thin rounds 3 x cloves minced garlic 1/4 cup chopped cilantro lemon wedge 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp honey 1 tablespoon oil (any will do) 1/4 tsp cumin 1/4 tsp salt Boil the carrot slices until tender but not too soft. Once a fork can easily go through the carrot slice, it is ready. Release carrots into colander to cool. In a small saucepan heat the oil. Add the minced garlic, mix and turn off the heat. Add the juice from the lemon wedge, sugar, honey, cumin and salt. Turn the heat back on to medium, mix the ingredients well. Turn off heat immediately when soft boiling begins. Mix well. Place the carrots in a bowl. Add the sauce to the carrots. Add the chopped cilantro. Mix well. Place in fridge for a couple of hours for flavors to set. Taste before serving and add additional seasoning as needed.
- Chasing Corona, How to Travel Safely During the Pandemic
Since the very onset of our road trip it has felt like we have been chasing Corona. Uncannily, our next destination has always been to a place designated with soaring virus numbers. When we first left New York City in July we were headed to South Carolina, which was listed as a hot spot at the time. In fact, New Yorkers who were coming from the state had to self-quarantine for two weeks. Since then, we have continuously chased the virus as we entered New Mexico, Texas, California and Oregon; all states boasting highest cases at one point or another but always when we were there. At first, it was a disconcerting reality to constantly face massive Covid warnings as we pulled up our car to park ourselves in the latest state to be ridden by the outbreak. Slowly, after finding ourselves at the epicenter of the disease repeatedly, we learned to adjust our thoughts and behaviors to ease our fears while practicing safe measures. The alternative would have been staying in a city dealing with its own Covid crisis, laden with crime, homelessness and restrictions all while being cooped up in an apartment. When the pandemic erupted, I initially believed whole heartedly that the world was going to change for the best; that a spiritual reawakening was inevitable. Quickly I learned the opposite was happening and that the shape the world was taking was scaring me more than the virus itself. If the end of the world was nearing, I thought, let's get the hell out of our norm and live our lives as fully as possible under the circumstances because nothing has taught me how fragile life is more than this virus. Many people have been writing me asking how my family keeps safe while we have been traveling and exploring the USA for months on end. I hope the tips and feedback I'm about to share will be helpful as I would love more than anything to inspire as many people as possible to get out of their mental and physical lockdowns while exploring the country safely and responsibly. Yes, obviously you need accessible cash to embark on a massive road trip journey. For those who have the cash, but have chosen to sit on it and save up for a rainy day in light of how the virus has severely impacted the economy, I get it. This is a legitimate concern. Yet, in my mind, when I faced the realization that "the end of the world" was nearing, saving money was the smallest battle that I was occupied with. Saving for what? When you are convinced that the only reality is the present, the right here/right now, there is no need to think ahead into a place in time that does not exist. I realize this unconventional thinking process may seem irresponsible to some, but it was the way that I was able to release my grasp of financial concerns when making this decision. If I was convinced that saving for the future was crucial, I would have totally lost out on this whole experience. When we decided to hit the road, oh boy was I fearful of contracting the virus. We initially planned to make an overnight stop in Virginia to ease the long drive as we drove to South Carolina for our first road trip stop. As the virus numbers kept rising we decided to drive directly to Hilton Head fearful that we would get sick staying at a hotel room that may expose us to the virus. When we arrived to Hilton Head I wiped down every door knob, kitchen cabinet handle, toilet flusher, light switch- anything we would make contact with, I wiped. This practice carried on over our next several destinations and slowly the fear waned along with the motivation to clorox wipe entire homes each time we were moving. Doing so initially did however ease my mind and worries and it was the only way I could convince myself that we were safe to stay at our lodging choice. If you share the same concerns I had, just stock up on wipes and wipe the heck out of everything! It's been almost five months on the road. One of the most important practices that we have implemented, besides always wearing a mask, is staying away from large clusters of people or tight quarters. Besides a handful of friends that we have seen along the way, outdoors and socially distanced, it has only been our family together at all times. In order for us to enjoy these wonderful travels, we just cannot risk socializing with others and trusting that they too surround themselves with people who are equally concerned about the virus. If you want to travel safely, limit your interactions with others. We just can't have it all. In my point of view, wearing your mask is the easiest measure you can take to protect yourself and others. I get it, they are uncomfortable, unattractive, and who wants to be told what to do? I am a Leo, I hate being told what to do. Yet, this is one simple thing we can all do to stay safe and keep others safe too. Please, just wear your mask. Dining out was also a very real fear at the onset of Covid. It was a long while before we felt comfortable to go to a restaurant and interact with the waiter and cooking crew that handled our food. Our rule has been to only dine outdoors and to sanitize everything that has been handled. We wipe the table, the menus, the silverware, the plates, the glasses. We wipe everything. After the first few minutes of obsessively sanitizing everything that has been touched, we have learned to kick back, relax and enjoy wonderful meals throughout our state hopping. Now that we are in cold, wintery climates a new challenge is surfacing - will we feel safe eating indoors when outdoor seating is no longer an option due to cold temperatures? In the next few weeks there will be times when we will be staying in hotels and cooking won't be an option. Can we try to eat indoors comfortably or will we resort to room service/take out only? My thinking is, we will go to the restaurants we have on our itinerary. If they seem too crowded and we are uncomfortable in any way, we will just give up our table and order the food to go. We need to use sound judgement. No great meal in the world is worth us ending this journey because one of us gets sick due to unsafe practices. Just use common sense. Another crucial component woven into our travels is spreading the love with others. It is a habitual practice in my life to make donations on a regular basis. If you are lucky enough to be healthy during this time, dine out, shop or travel while so many are suffering from financial and health burdens, make a donation to a cause that means something to you. Or volunteer your time. Just. Give. Back. Put a reminder in your calendar two-three times a month to support a person in need or an organization you value. Whether it is $20, $200, or $2,000 doesn't matter. What matters most is that you realize that if you are blessed in any way, return the favor and bless others too. Mother Nature has been our savior during Covid. No matter where we are, and how high the virus numbers are in our given location, we have always found a nook in nature where we felt safe and even isolated enough to explore it mask-free. Malls, movie theaters, entertainment centers etc... are not things we miss at all. There is absolutely zero nostalgia for these indoor activities when we have been immersed in the most incredible landscapes that nature can offer. My biggest advice, wherever you may be, is to get in your car and drive (even for just a couple hours) and head to the nearest beach, mountain or desert and spend the day there. There have been very few sites in the wilderness that have drawn crowds. Mostly we have had epic trails all to ourselves. The media has done a great job of planting the fear of God in all of us. I hope that our family's adventures during these crazy days of Covid-19 will inspire you to break out of those debilitating imposed fears and that you can find ways to enjoy your lives. Chasing Corona has been quite the escapade. I hope that we continue to only ride its coattails and never meet the virus directly. That being said, I refuse to be locked down, mentally, physically, or financially, by a virus that we can mostly avoid if we all practice safe measures. Please, don't be scared. Just be smart, masked and well-armed to enjoy your life as much as possible until this insanity comes to an end.
- 4 Nights on Coast of Oregon
Whereas exploring Utah is like stumbling upon Mars, visiting the Oregon Coast is like finding Paradise. It is unimaginable that our country only continues to get more and more beautiful as we proceed to explore it. Yet, it does. My time spent on the coast of Oregon had me constantly thinking of how to be a better person and human being. The dramatic and intense scenery somehow made things feel simpler. With each sunset and crashing of a wave, there came a whisper that everything is going to be ok. The skies were blue, the sun shone bright and a small cloud always playfully lurked around the valley near The Pistol River, low enough to be touched. Temperatures were steady at fifty-five degrees. This area of Oregon is known to have much milder weather than other parts of the state. However, trust me, there is nothing else mild about this region. My soul was satiated in many ways here. I even had some pretty important personal breakthroughs that were long overdue. Being exposed to such a remarkable scenery had me focused on how insignificant some things I pay too much attention to really are. Like the hostess in San Francisco (see post), did I really get upset by her lack of service? I mean, the sun rises and sets in perfect harmony, with so many other miraculous things that occur, like clock work, each day and I actually got fazed by her rudeness? Yup. I did. But that was while I was in San Francisco! In Oregon, nothing can faze you but the blinding possibilities of everything you can ever dream of. This is a place where dreams are made, love intensifies, the soul transcends, miracles abound, breakthroughs surface...this is a land where magic really exists. Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor Twelve miles of windy roads will guide you along a forested and rugged coastline filled with pockets of spectacular views. No matter the time of day or which spots you choose to soak in the views, you will always be wowed. This has to be the most incredible road in the United States. Beach House 101 We found Beach House 101 on Airbnb. I honestly couldn't have wished for a better accommodation during our stay. This house served us perfectly in terms of size, location, and spectacular landscapes. The beach house is located in Gold Beach, OR right off the 101 in a small, private beachside community. We enjoyed a wonderful Thanksgiving here, a few movie nights and lots of playing in the arcade room. More so, hopping on to the 101 to see all the sites that I will highlight below was a cinch. I will miss hearing the Pacific crashing outside our patio and will truly forever treasure the many wonderful memories we made in, and around, this home. Upon booking our home through Airbnb we received instructions from the owner informing us that we were in a tsunami zone. The last Tsunami on this part of the coast was in the 1960s but it's threat clearly continues to lurk. We kept this information on the DL in order not to frighten the kids. The 101 has several tsunami zone warning signs that we must have passed dozens of times. With each sign we passed we were sure the kids would finally notice the warnings, but they never did. They too must have been too hypnotized by the landscape to notice. Secret Beach I was eager to find this beach as soon as my new Instagram friends from Oregon mentioned how many times they tried to find it unsuccessfully. Those who know me know I love a good challenge! So off I went digging online to gather as many tips as I could to locate this sought after spot. You will find paradise when heading South on the Samuel Boardman Corridor, just north of Thunder Rock Cove Lookout and 1/3 mile south of milepost 345 on U.S. 101. Look to the right to find a small gravel parking lot off the side of the highway (see first picture below). You will find two trails. The first trail, to your left, is an extremely challenging and steep trail in the midst of a lush, moss-kissed forest. We began our search for The Secret Beach on this trail but we kept questioning our treacherous path as it was getting more harrowing by the minute. After approximately a .2 mile stretch that took us over thirty minutes to cover, we decided to give up because the path ahead was looking even more narrow, muddy and uncertain. When we got back to the parking lot my super star husband decided to check the trail on the right that we originally passed because of how muddy it was. He checked out the first few hundred feet and assured us this was the better trail. YES! This trail is easy to navigate and after just .6 miles we reached The Garden of Eden. When the forest opened up into the landscape ahead, I literally gasped and felt tears well up. The beauty before me was incomprehensible and overwhelming. Natural Bridges There are two ways to get to these natural wonders. One way is to take the 1/4 mile trailhead from The Secret Beach. We chose to drive just a couple of minutes further south to the Natural Bridges Viewpoint lookout instead. The trail offers unobstructed views of the two naturally occurring bridges. We visited at high tide as the Pacific Ocean ferociously pounded the rocks while the sun was beginning to set. There have been adventure seekers who visit at low tide and actually walk through the formations. This site offers a dramatic landscape at any time of day. Otter Point The state park offers lots of trails that lead to a pristine beach hugged by rolling dunes covered in vegetation. For those who have traveled to Iceland before, the vista here reminded us of the Icelandic landscape we were lucky to explore a couple of years ago. Everything about the southern part of the Oregon coast seems otherworldly and I found myself often wondering if any of it is real. Isaac Lee Patterson Bridge This scenic bridge, just outside of Gold Beach, carries drivers on Route 101 across the Rogue River. It took us to Otter Point as well as an off-the-beaten path that had an unusual, and quirky, art installation of miniature homes with funny inscriptions like "who's your daddy?" One of the most fun things about a road trip is just following the road and seeing where it takes you. The road is full of surprises! South Fork Smith River/Myrtle Beach, California We crossed paths with this beautiful trail on our way to the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Spontaneously, we pulled over to follow the short, windy and steep Myrtle Beach trail to the South Fork Smith River. Nature continuously works her magic. I never expected to find, in the middle of a forest filled with redwoods, a pristine river that is so clear we could actually see the riverbed through the water approximately one hundred feet away. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, CA About an hour south from Gold Beach thousands of acres of redwoods stand the test of time, erected proudly for an average of six hundred years! These massive trees command the respect of all those they encounter. We opted to pay homage on the Stout Memorial Grove trail which promises a strong connection with the redwoods and honestly, it's also a super short .6 mile loop trail (there are much longer trails in the park). The trees are massive and utterly stunning. In six hundred years what have they seen? How much has changed? What hasn't changed at all? What have they heard? What stories would they share with us if they could speak? As we walked the path, I had this nagging wish to receive advice from just one of the trees. While meandering through their embrace, I couldn't help but feel so small. I couldn't help but think that somewhere within their wise trunks they carry big messages. Whether or not you believe trees could talk, I highly suggest a quiet walk here. You will hear voices, even if they are your own reminding you of how lucky you are to be alive and how magical our planet earth is. Harris Beach State Park To say that the coast of Oregon is beautiful would be a huge understatement. The entire coast along the southern part of the state will literally make you gasp at every turn. Harris Beach State Park is along the twelve mile stretch of ocean-hugging miles along the Samuel Boardman Scenic Corridor. Here, huge rock formations arise out of the sea as it's waves crash relentlessly onto them. We visited during low tide and were able to enjoy an endless stretch of soft, golden brown sand that assisted with the perfect reflections being created as the sun was preparing to set. We also accidentally found an unmarked trail that led us to the well-know Arch Rock, which is typically viewed from a higher view point. When you walk south along the shore, you will reach a naturally occurring dead end created by a mammoth boulder. Here, walk to the right and hop your way over the fallen tree trunks and hundreds of rocks towards a tiny, muddy trail. Follow this path down to the other side of the beach. To your right you will see the arch up close and personal. If possible, visit an hour before the sun sets- the glow that emitted through the arch at this time of the day was truly spectacular. On our last day on the coast we began to make our way towards Portland and decided to check out some other towns along the coast. The skies were overcast with many clouds dominating the sky and the Pacific Ocean was as ferocious as ever. It may just be the time of year that we visited, but we have never seen such feisty waters. Even in her moments of wrath, Mother Nature will entrance you by her hypnotic dances. Driving up the coast gave us an even wider perspective of the area. Surprisingly, most people in this part of Oregon do not wear their masks when they are enjoying nature's many sites. Also, from Gold Beach to Pacific City, Trump/Pence flags dominate the lawns of locals. Since Portland is one of the more liberal cities in the country we wrongly assumed that the entire state would be as well. In most states, coastal cities tend to lean left but not here. We also really appreciated the hefty littering penalties of up to $6,250 for those who dare to tarnish this pristine and immaculate part of our country. It is important to also note that people here love their sunsets and seem to celebrate it daily. People ceremoniously plant their beach chairs and light bonfires as the day nears its end and drivers literally pull over wherever possible to catch the last five minutes before the sun says her goodbyes. Finally, as we drove up the coast and wove in and out of Tsunami zones I kept my focus on how powerful our surroundings are both mentally and physically. Dividing our time along the many little towns helped us feel more familiar with the overall lifestyle and culture here and how vastly different it is than the one we are accustomed to in NYC. Bandon Our first stop was in Old Town Bandon, an adorable little town with a lot of character. Standing proud on the main strip are three large sculptures made out of recycled plastic previously found in the ocean. Washed Ashore is the brainchild behind these creations. They have a store around the corner with more exhibits but they are closed during the pandemic. Umpqua River Lighthouse We tried to find some great sand dune gazing spots once we learned that this part of the coast is famous for their wild and bizarre sand formations. We went to two recommended areas: Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area and Umpqua Dunes. Unfortunately we could not locate the trail, or even the beach, at either points. However, we did come by the lovely Umpqua River Lighthouse. Since learning a few years ago that lighthouses are slowly becoming extinct, I have a whole new appreciation for them and whenever I cross paths with one I always stop to say hello. Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area We were extremely excited to see elk in the wild at this popular elk sighting spot. As we pulled up we found seven elks lazily lounging in the meadow for a 10:00am catch up. They were too far to capture on camera but their presence was close enough for me to say it was a delightful encounter. The viewing area is rather expansive so I would think that some days there are likely hundreds of elks that roam this area. Also, the drive to the viewing area is so beautiful that it is worth it to take that route for the landscape alone. Tahkenitch Lake As we continued on the 101 we drove past a birds eye view of a lake and bridge hundreds of feet below. We were unable to pull over to the lookout points because they crept up too quickly and since we were on a highway it was hard to make a sudden, sharp turn. When exploring the area make a mental note to drive slow . There are two spots that offer unobstructed views that will take your breath away. Unfortunately, by the time we drove slower we had missed those two lookouts and couldn't view the lake until we were at the bottom of the valley at eye level with it. Still a stunner! Oregon Dunes Overlook This easy to find overlook offered some peeks of the sand dunes. I love how the sand and sea are separated by shrubbery here. I must also share that the bathroom here was spotless. Dune Lookout 13 miles south of Thor's Well is probably the best lookout point to enjoy the dunes dominating the landscape. The day was beginning to get hazy so our view was not as clear as it normally would be. Regardless we were able to appreciate the flair they bring to this part of the coast. Here they seemed to tower over the shore more than in the other areas we drove past. It is not a marked viewpoint so watch your GPS and look for it on your way to Thor's Well. Haceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint Perched 1,000 feet high on the edge of a cliff this lighthouse is impossible to pass or overlook. It's beacon can be seen twenty-one miles from land, even through the foggiest conditions. The assistant lightkeeper's house is now a B & B and can be rented by those who want unforgettable views and some insight of what it was like to be a lightkeeper. If I had known about this lodging option beforehand.... Thor's Well Hands down, this was my favorite stop along the drive up the coast. All we could do was stand there in silence mesmerized by what the ocean was up to. As omnipotent as she is, here is where she claims her stake as the master of our earth. The basalt shoreline was getting quite a beating the day we visited. I couldn't help but feel so vulnerable and powerless knowing that if we stood too close we could be swept up in one of her violent crashes in an instant. After months on the road, watching nature exercise her many emotions, I have become very humble in her presence. Third row, middle photo, shows that people will do just about anything to catch that perfect Insta-worthy photo. That man crossed over into the area that clearly warns of high risk of being swept to see and dying. Then he proceeded to walk a couple of hundred more feet towards Thor's Well, which is basically a hole in the sea (although there is actually an exit hole twenty feet deep that sends the water back into the sea). I am sure he got an incredible shot from his up-close perspective. I though, prefer a shot at life and admired the incredible sites around me from a safe distance. We could have probably sat here for hours. None of us were able to keep our eyes off the ocean and her violent dances. Yachats Yachats is reminiscent of Woodstock, NY with its bohemian locals strolling the sidewalks full of eccentric shops and restaurants. Except here, the sea is always in your view and the town has even more edge than Woodstock since most of the businesses in Yachats have been around for many years and there are no new trendy shops popping up to cater to a certain crowd. You get the real deal here and I just adored this colorful little town. By the time we arrived we were starving. I took the advice of @the_inspired_travelers who recommended we stop for a bite at The Driftwood Inn. Oregon is on restrictive measures allowing restaurants to serve take out only. We were able to enjoy our delicious meal on one of their outside picnic tables. Their service was great and their funky décor fit right in with the vibe of the town. Gosh I loved it here. Newport, Historic Bayfront We had mixed feelings about this town. The town has... well, a gritty feel to it. Newport clearly thrives on the fishing industry. Many seafood shops and plants line the water's edge. Several men were on the pier casting their nets to catch the crabs they then tossed into buckets. There are some odd attractions like lama sculptures that wear masks and signs asking people to keep at a social distance. There was a homeless man roaming the sidewalks and stopping to chat with the crabs waiting to be boiled in the buckets along the sidewalks, the stench of fish was overwhelming, signs urging for help solving a murder that occurred 36 years ago were pasted on every lamp post and somewhere in the background we could here the relentless barks of seals. Despite all this, the town does have its own unique charm in its own spooky way. We ordered a delicious order of popcorn shrimp (when in Rome!) from Gino's Ocean Blue and went on our merry way leaving unsure of how we felt about this place. It is unusual for sure, but definitely worth a stop! Devil's Punchbowl Watching the Pacific Ocean slamming into this hollow rock formation with a thunderous roar was a momentous experience. I read that if timed well, at low tide visitors are able to walk into the structure to experience the very space that bares the brunt of the sea's constant beating throughout the day. I have a hunch that there isn't a time of the day the trumps another. It is impossible to be anything but impressed by the sites and surroundings at any time of day. Pacific City The energy at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City was incredible. The shore was the busiest one we have visited with dozens of folks lighting up campfires as they readied themselves for a spectacular sunset. Brave souls donned their wetsuits and dove into the frigid waters while many others just took leisurely strolls along the water. Our NY state license plate received a lot of attention reminding us once more of how far we have come! This was the perfect place to end our explorations of the coast of Oregon and make our way to Portland. There were a few other spots and towns we expected to visit along the way like Neskowin Beach State Park, Oceanside and Tillamook but we savored our time in the other coastal towns that we enjoyed so much we couldn't pull away in time to fit everything in. Although we completed the route we took in ten hours, realistically it should be enjoyed at a slower pace over at least three nights in order to soak up the character of each area. Truth be told, what we covered in the last five days could have easily been stretched over two weeks. Maybe it's just me but I just can't get enough of this part of our country. These five days have been remarkable in every way.
- Thanksgetting
In my daily life, on a regular basis I do a lot of Thanksgiving that results in a lot of Thanksgetting on the receivers' end. As I sit here in Oregon, three thousand miles from home, I contemplate over the shape Thanksgiving is taking on this year. For the past decade, we have hosted twenty to thirty friends each year during my favorite holiday to host and feed our friends with the countless trays of food I prepared over the days leading up to the holiday. Our family tradition has always been to gather around the living room at 9:00am to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. As we watch together, I begin to bake and heat the menu items while finishing the last decorating touches before our guests begin to arrive at noon. Together we all have a casual lunch and then we all just hang out for the rest of the day; often dancing, instrument playing, karaoke and eating more, until late into the night. It's always been such a blast. This year, taking our Covid-era road trip serves as a much welcomed excuse to celebrate the holiday with just my immediate family. The truth is, if we were back home there would be no one from our old list that I would feel compelled to extend an invitation to. The flip side is, I also know that none of the former friends on our past guest list would extend an invitation either, as it has historically been my role to do so. Pandemic or not, this would have been our first Thanksgiving with just the five of us. Celebrating it across the country makes the transition more seamless. The summer of 2019 was an extremely painful summer for me as several friends who I have knows for many, many years wounded me deeply by their actions. Without getting into the full details, let's just say that during a celebratory occasion where good friends typically shower you with joy and love, they instead caused my husband and I so much stress and grief. During the proceeding months of trying to heal I had a revelation that continues to be confirmed as the days transpire, even today while I am on the other side of the country. I have always had many friends. I never lacked a girlfriend to call on a whim for a girl's night or a fun activity to share together. We always had great turn outs at our many parties and socialized with many different couples. Looking back, these closest friends always expected me to be the planner, the hostess, the organizer, the listener and the one to show generosity. I was always giving and they were always getting. In retrospect, I had awareness of this role all along but I excused being taken advantage of and tried to pass it off as fulfilling an important purpose in connecting people and bringing light into their lives. After the summer of 2019, I realized that I no longer wanted this role. In fact, I shed the caretaker role as soon as our plane hit the runway in NYC returning from the nightmare trip with those who were once our dearest friends. Upon returning home, I took a pause from reaching out, inviting, hosting etc... I quickly noticed that there was no one extending a hand in return. That's when I realized, I am too tired to be a good friend if it means giving at a much greater scale than what I was receiving in return. Where I once embraced the role of casting light on the lives of friends (and strangers too of course!), these days I feel like often when I have done so I was left with a shadow looming over me that left me drained and disappointed. Thanksgiving is in no way making me miss a home full of friends (or perhaps I should say a home full of guests). I feel beyond grateful to spend the holiday with my family on the coast of Oregon which is gently healing my wounds as memories flock in my mind. Our traditions will remain completely intact this year and I will prepare an equally abundant and delicious meal for the five of us as I would have normally made if it were twenty-five of us. I do still have healing to do and am completely aware that some residual resentment continues to linger from past transgressions. It has been extremely difficult to cut off some old friends or loosely hold on to others via infrequent texts but I do feel less drained, confused and hurt. I no longer have to replay scenarios over and over in my mind trying to find the ways I was to blame when a friend was in the wrong all along. There are many others in my life that I have maintained a relationship with who have done a great job in the area of reciprocity. I still have many friends that I communicate with regularly, I guess they're just not the kind who we are close enough to travel with or spend a Thanksgiving meal with. It feels good nurturing relationships where there are equal roles and opportunities to give and take without delving in so strongly. In reality, the relationships that have withstood are the ones that have never gotten too deep and have been able to avoid drama, unmet expectations, and hurtful words. To give you an idea of typical behaviors from our friends, here is an example... a friend of ours who we have hosted for the last ten years for Thanksgiving, invited to every party we have thrown, and have included at every social event we have organized has not even reached out once during this whole pandemic- except around May to ask us if he can stay in our apartment while it is vacant. I can easily write this because I know he couldn't care less to inquire about our journey let alone read my blog or follow our adventures. This is probably the tiniest example of many ways we have felt taken advantage of over the years. We have created a pattern where people feel completely comfortable benefiting from our generosity while rarely reciprocating. In this case the only thing we wanted in return was a text saying "hey, how are you guys?". Over recent discussions my husband and I have counted several couples who have come to our home dozens of times while inviting us over once or twice in the many years we have known them. Somehow I must have set the tone that I love to slave over cooking and serving and would never enjoy being cooked for myself. I don't know how we created this dynamic but what matters most is that I am thankful to have put a stop to it. I do not need to be everyone's planner. I am a human being that also wants to be cared for and thought of. I am no longer everyone's giver. Being away for the last seven months since the pandemic began has really allowed me to focus with laser precision on who and what I really need in my life. I have allowed myself to get too bogged down and wrapped up in unhealthy relationships that looking back served to validate my altruism. In this way, I was receiving. While "best friends" showered me with big words of how much they loved me and how inspiring I am, I always felt like their actions towards me didn't line up with the powerful words they easily dished out. My husband says words like this should be the first warning sign of an unhealthy relationship. I don't want to be anyone's inspiration or best friend. It's too heavy of a role. I just want people in my life who know I need to be taken care of too, regardless of how strong and together they think I am. It's hard to put these feelings into words but it's also necessary for me to share them as part of my healing process. There has been too much pain the past couple of years that have caused me to build too many walls. I definitely haven't been the same person towards others. I now proceed more cautiously and always question people's authenticity. I don't believe that anyone truly cares about anything but themselves. They say they do, they think they do....but they don't. It's been a very difficult journey coming to this realization. On the other hand, knowing this allows me to keep my relationships lighter and at a safe distance. It does still make me sad though. I truly did deeply love everyone in my life and often put their needs before my own. Obviously, that was unhealthy on my behalf too. But I am a living example of caring about others more than I probably should have. This Thanksgiving, I am reminded to continue giving. I will always give because I am a giver by nature, it actually makes me feel good. The only difference will be that the giving will be redirected so that I will give a little more to myself and stop giving to others who have taken so much. I am forced to rethink my entire social life and the choices of friends that I have made. Now, I am hoping for the aha moment when I can snap out of the funk, break down the walls and be myself again maybe this time with new relationships. So, I guess ironically, Thanksgiving is helping me come to terms with accepting the value of giving less to those who only know how to take more. As I eat my pecan pie I won't need to dwell on how thankful I am, because I do that every day regardless. Instead, I will think how sweet it is to eat a freshly baked pie as I look out to the Pacific Ocean with my husband and three children by my side with a lifetime invitation to my Thanksgiving table. Finally, I want to thank my twelve year old son who coined the term "Thanksgetting" when he mentioned yesterday that he thought this is what the holiday should be called because everyone is getting such good food and giving nothing in return. He has no idea how much his words struck me.
- 2 Nights in San Francisco, CA
As we approached the Golden Gate Bridge I was filled with emotion. Crossing this iconic bridge was a huge reminder of how much ground we have covered over the past four months on our road trip. From The Brooklyn Bridge we can pretty much draw a straight line across the country to where we are at this point in time. Entering San Francisco overflowed me with gratitude towards the memories and experiences we have created and shared together as a family over the last hundred and twenty five days on the road. When we packed up our car on July 20th to embark on our journey I didn't know what to expect and whether we were doing the right thing by traveling throughout the country during a pandemic. For some reason, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge gave me instant clarity that it's one of the best decisions we ever made. Eight summers ago we spent two weeks in San Francisco. Although we had a wonderful time, we did not enjoy the chilly and grey summers the city offered. Coming back as winter approaches all these years later, we arrived to similar windy and cloudy weather. Despite the clouds, I thought, "hey, I can live here". In retrospect, I was just influenced by the stunning coast and views along the Golden Gate Bridge Park. After a couple of days of walking around, spending time outdoors and interacting with locals I quickly learned that this city, for me, is only meant to be explored as a tourist. I would choose NYC over San Francisco any day. Golden Gate Bridge Park As soon as we entered San Francisco we headed over to Golden Gate Bridge Park to snatch some epic views of the bridge. The parking lot was full with a long wait line to enter. My hubby pulled over to let us out and walk over to admire the views. The Golden Gate Bridge is really one of the most beautiful bridges that exists. Sausalito Before heading over to San Francisco we made a stop at Sausalito, a charming coastal town just ten minutes away from the big city. This was our third visit over the years and we truly adore this small town more with each visit. The homes perched in clusters on the hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean are reminiscent of Italian coastal cities like the Amalfi Coast. The sidewalks are packed with people strolling along the shore with San Francisco in the horizon. The small strip of shops and restaurants offer delicious food options and more chocolate and ice cream shops per capita than any city we have visited, as if the views weren't sweet enough! Sausalito Sweets It is physically impossible for me to walk past a candy shop without going in to taste the goods. I think this is one of the things that makes me most fun as a mom. If there are multiple shops in a neighborhood, well...we make multiple stops. Sampling local sweet treats is an irresistible vice that I cave into whenever possible. Sausalito Sweets overflows with candy, chocolates and even ice cream. The retro décor and oldies music playing through the speakers adds to the fun environment. I'm surprised by their poor online reviews as the kids loved their ice-cream and I cherished each bite of my dark chocolate, caramel pecan cluster sprinkled with sea salt. YUM! Sausalito Gourmet Delicatessen After a four hour drive from Yosemite National Park we wanted a quick bite to grab and go and eat on a waterfront bench. In my search, Sausalito Gourmet Delicatessen appeared online for great sandwiches with raving reviews. I called in our order never expecting that the sandwiches were being prepared in such a lovely, European-like setting. As soon as we arrived, we decided to hunker down in their charming patio to soak in their warm hospitality. Let me tell you, coming from NYC I never, ever imagined that there are delis that look like this! Everyone devoured every single crumb of their sandwiches, each one loaded with fresh and innovative ingredients. Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast For lodging I thought it would be fun to book a stay at a Bed & Breakfast to provide a different lodging experience for the kids. While I love the charm and aesthetics of this B&B, my kids...not so much. They much prefer larger, more modern hotels than smaller, boutique inns that have Victorian interior decorating. Because the kids need space for their remote schooling we booked multiple rooms. At bedtime my daughter was a little spooked out being in her own room but ultimately decided not to bunk with us and got use to the dark, velvet drapery and wooden bed posts that gave her a haunted feel at first. On my end, the inn keeper gave us a warm welcome and immediately directed the kids to the dining room to help themselves to a nice spread of snacks and chocolates. I welcomed the romantic décor and tasteful touches of the inn . Breakfast, included in the rate, was delicious and the chef kindly accommodated our request for breakfast to be served earlier than their usual serving time. The highlight of our stay, in addition to the endless supply of chocolates, were the Japanese style toilets that have every kind of toilet function that you can ever dream of. The kids especially got a kick out of this luxury. Ironically, the hotel is located just two blocks from where the kids went to camp the summer we were here and the house we rented was not too far away. We seem to keep gravitating towards the Pacific Heights neighborhood of this Golden City. Lands End Lookout There are many parks that offer breathtaking views of The Golden Gate Bridge and coastline. We originally went to Lands End Lookout for their well-known outdoor labyrinth. However, it was so windy and chilly by the water that the seventeen minute hike down the path was too daunting for all of us. Instead, we stayed at the top of the park, which also has a golf course, and soaked in the outstanding views. Crissy Field Crissy Field is my favorite spot in San Francisco. I have such fond memories here with the kids when they were younger. Their small, bare feet in the sand as they rolled around the grass doing cartwheels and having no care in the world. It is also my favorite vantage point of the bridge. The green grass along the blue waters makes for a beautiful landscape. This is the spot that for a quick minute had me wondering if we could ever live here. It's almost impossible to not fall in love with the city from this perspective. Kin Khao We were super excited to have dinner at this highly recommended, Michelin star establishment. Our visit here quickly set the tone for our experience in San Francisco and our overall view of the culture that exists here. Before being allowed to step foot in the patio we were abruptly greeted by a draconian hostess who took our temperature, via forehead. Then in a military like approach she proceeded to direct us to scan a Covid survey into our phone to be completed before sitting. When we were finally sat, after what seemed to be longer than airport security screenings, we were ordered not to remove our masks at any point until the food and beverages arrived. Look at the patio in the photo below. It's outdoors and no one was in sight. Even my oldest son needed clarification about keeping our masks on once seated but he heard the hostess correctly, they must stay on. As firmly instructed, we ordered our food via an app that automatically builds in a minimal tip of 18% before you are even serviced. Finally the food arrived, in paper take out containers, at a Michelin star restaurant. What really set me off was that all the sauces and seasonings were served on the side, in plastic ramekins for us to mix into our meals. I was hoping the chef would actually season the food we ordered. This contact-free service was also enjoyment-free and fun-free. Yes, the food was good. Very good. However, at this price point I expect my meals delivered on ceramic plates, seasoned for me by the chef and served by a waiter with a smile on his/her face. This experience was our first insight into the built in, programmed way many of the locals here live their lives. While San Francisco is known to be the hub of innovation, especially in technology, the robotic demeanor of some of the people here definitely lack creativity in their daily lives. More on this later. Fisherman's Wharf I remember this part of the city being overrun by tourists and I have never particularly enjoyed this neighborhood. This time around, with much fewer people walking its sidewalks, I gained a whole new appreciation for Fisherman's Wharf and finally understand its appeal. The waterfront community offers fantastic views of Alcatraz and The Golden Gate Bridge, loads of restaurants and shops in a vibrant atmosphere, the world-famous Ghirardelli Square, and of course the barking sea lions who are the stars of the show and kept us captivated for a solid half an hour. With less people clogging the streets, we were really able to enjoy strolling the entire area on a rare, warm and sunny San Francisco afternoon. Palette Tea House I did some extensive research trying to find a great restaurant in Fisherman's Wharf, which is not exactly known for its culinary scene as the restaurants try to cater to the swarms of tourists who are looking for "the best" clam chowder. Palette Tea House in Ghirardelli Square showed up as a highly recommended Dim Sum restaurant with promising reviews. Unlike the pretentious service we received at dinner the other evening, service was on par. Here, "city laws" did not exists and not only did we not have to fill out a five page Covid survey before entering, our temperatures were not taken and we were not forced to wear masks while sitting at our table. We felt at ease immediately. The attractive menu made it difficult to make our selections so we chose a bunch of different items to share. Their dumplings and bao buns are out of this world. Lombard Street Lombard Street is an iconic street in San Francisco known for its extremely windy road down a tall hill dotted with lovely homes and gardens along the way. This was the first time we were able to enjoy driving down the street with absolutely no traffic. Usually the road is backlogged with other tourists. The kids thought the sixty second ride was "super cool". My favorite part was the view of the city down the hill. The Palace of Fine Arts Built in 1915 for the Panama-Pacific Exposition, The Palace of Fine Arts literally transforms its visitors into a romantic fairytale. The structure is tucked into the Marina District of the city and is surrounded by a pristine park perfect for picnics and a lake lined with some of San Francisco's most expensive real estate. This would definitely be my escape within the city. The large park offers many private corners to find solitude in a peaceful and serene environment. Although San Francisco has an abundance of unique and beautiful styles of architecture, this masterpiece wins hands down for its beauty and grandeur. The Painted Ladies This brightly colored row of seven Victorian homes have become famous examples of the city's Victorian architecture. These "ladies" are one of the most photographed locations in San Francisco. They are also located across the street of a small park which invites admirers to kick back and relax while checking out the many details of these Victorian-era wonders. Japantown To really get away from it all and to feel completely removed from city life head over to Japantown. The Peace Pagoda Square provides a Zen-like retreat and leads its visitors to Japan Center, a large, indoor mall exploding with everything Japanese from sushi to kimonos. When we visited years ago we remember having the best crepes at Sophie's Crepes, in the mall, and were sad to find them closed on the days we were in town. Still, all these years later, we equally enjoyed our walk through this part of the city. State Bird Provisions This one Michelin star restaurant serving American style, farm to table, tapas dishes has been one of our favorites to date. We have dined here twice before and worked really hard to snatch reservations during this visit. While the food was undeniably good, our experience was nothing like what we remember. In the past, the staff would bring out carts of whatever came out of that kitchen at that moment and diners would make their selections on the spot. There was no menu. Instead, there was an exciting atmosphere of waiters shouting whatever the chef just created on a whim. Nowadays, they have a set menu with items combined with their sister restaurant, The Progress. They built a creative outdoor dining scene which we admired immediately. From there, our admiration began to dwindle. Although at this fine restaurant we did not have our temperatures taken and were not required to fill out a Covid survey, we were instructed to keep our masks on at all times except while eating. In fact, when the waitress came to bring us fresh plates mid-meal, she would not serve them to us until we all put on our masks. It's like these Michelin starred restaurants are trying to outdo one another with ridiculous rules. In my opinion, they all win for stupidity so they should stop competing with one another for the prize. Eating in San Francisco reminded us of what a waste of money it can be to eat at expensive joints. As we are major foodies from NYC, over the last couple of years we started getting turned off by shelling out hundreds of dollars on the food scene even back home. Sadly, eventually it all starts to feel and taste the same and it is very rare to be completely wowed once you have been lucky enough to have tasted so many fantastic culinary creations. California sucked us back into the money drain that comes with eating at "top restaurants". Personally, I can't wait to get out of hotels and into a home so I can start cooking some delicious, homecooked meals at a fraction of the cost in the much warmer and hospitable environment of my home. I don't want to take away from the gorgeous presentation of their food or beautifully prepared plates of interesting ingredient combinations. State Bird Provisions does deliver a delicious meal. It's the experience and atmosphere that they have failed to master and in my opinion, this is an equal component of a great meal. So, San Francisco... I am really trying to figure you out. I appreciate you more this time around. You are definitely gifted with beauty and have your own, unique sense of style. Sadly, you have created a culture of people who seem robotically programmed to carry out whatever guidelines they are implored to execute. Every single person, I mean EVERY SINGLE PERSON, in San Fran wears a mask. Hey, I am 100% for mask wearing and wear mine all the time, but we didn't see one person deviate from this guideline. We have been to dozens of cities over the last four months and there are always the rebels, the black sheep of sorts. Nope, not in San Francisco. Here, everyone dutifully does what is expected of them. It is impossible to drive one block without seeing BLM, LGBQ, or Biden posters in apartment windows. They are everywhere. Again, it feels as if the locals here are programmed to deliver these messages through their windows and dutifully comply. The city of San Francisco has come up with what I am sure they think is a brilliant solution to battle the virus- all diners must now wear a mask even while be seating. Hmm... to me this policy seems to be an attempt to "one up" other cities' guidelines. Really, if they are so worried about cases going up in restaurants, why don't they just close dine-in like Washington and Oregon recently did? Because, there is something appealing to San Franciscans about having an air about things. Here, it's much more fun to have ways to further control the environment. For a moment, when we arrived, I really thought I could be open to living here. But the small mindedness in this large city really got to me. Can you tell? I did some serious self-reflecting to try to figure out why the city got to me so much. I needed to know why I had such strong feelings about this city, more than any other we have visited. What I realized is that the city really challenges two values that are important to me: authenticity and freedom. I feel too confined in a city where rules are arbitrarily made up with the expectation that citizens not only honor them but openly respect them. I also feel suffocated by the thought that my freedom can be taken away by a culture that heavily judges others whether it is because they do not wear their masks, do not have a poster du jour in their window, or do not want to sign a five page Covid survey. On the surface, this is one of the prettiest cities we have visited. Unfortunately, as we dug deeper, the attraction quickly faded.
- 6 Nights in Carmel, CA
It is possible that we found the place we would consider calling our new home. Carmel is paradise from every angle, on every corner and from every perspective. The weather is consistently mild throughout the year with sunny, blue skies and offers the most jaw dropping coast we have yet to discover. The Carmel area encompasses Carmel Valley, Carmel-by-the-Sea, Carmel Highlands and is a quick ten minute drive to Monterey and Pacific Grove ensuring that there is never a lack of things to do or places to enjoy while being hugged by the Pacific Ocean all along. In addition, the Big Sur area is a short drive away and there are many, many hikes to choose from in the immediate area. Public schools are fantastic, cuisine is delicious, and its population of less than 4,000 people keeps the city manageable in terms of feeling overcrowded. Six nights left us yearning for more. The visit was too short. Sobranes Point This breathtaking look out point perched on cliffs is just a twelve mile drive from Carmel. There is an easy path guiding visitors to the very edge of the bluffs to admire the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean with unobstructed views of the endless sea. The blue hues of the water combined with the autumn colored earth are just unreal. Point Lobos State Natural Reserve There are over 550 acres of coastal trails at this state park in Carmel-by-the-Sea with countless trailheads to be explored. We opted for the Cypress Grove Trail which offered us pelican sightings, barking seals, and spectacular views of the coast on a well shaded trail with many look out points. My mind immediately went to dreaming of having these trails as my personal gym if we were to live here. I hate jogging but these trails made me imagine a life of becoming a runner, soaring through the cliff perched trails with music pumping in my ears and the scenery reawakening my soul each day. It would be impossible not to find my calling here. Carmel-by-the-Sea I am obsessed with this small, coastal town that is packed with the most romantic restaurant patios, architectural details like arches and Spanish tiles, and beautiful locally owned shops. I am partially jealous of the locals who have these sidewalks at their disposal. A very European vibe exists in this part of town. Everyone sits outdoors enjoying long, leisurely meals while sipping their wine under the California sky. If we were to move anywhere, this would definitely be the place. Restaurants: The Carmel area has no shortage of excellent food options with lovely patios dotted with heat lamps for those slightly chilly days. Below are some of the ones we checked out during our stay. We also ordered take out from Napoli which we found to serve delicious Italian cuisine. The Stationaery We absolutely adored our breakfast here. By 8:30am the very spacious patio was already full with a line beginning to form. Luckily we had reservations and were seated quickly in a corner booth on the sidewalk. The service was spot on and the food was creative and delicious. I devoured my potato latkes topped with wild salmon and a soft boiled egg. My two younger kids loved every bite of their fluffy blueberry pancakes. My older son and husband ordered burgers (yes, for breakfast!) which they described as "incredible". I also loved my Mexican hot chocolate, served with handmaid Madagascar vanilla bean whipped cream. We had a very memorable meal here and I highly recommend dining at this establishment, which was recommended to me by a friend. It's all about word of mouth! La Bicyclette Restaurant We enjoyed a stellar dinner at La Bicyclette. Three of us ordered the most delicious homemade spinach gnocchi drenched in parmesan cream sauce. Each bite was so heavenly I almost couldn't resist lifting the bowl and licking it clean! We also ordered two different seafood pastas which were equally outstanding. The service was wonderful and the ambience is great too. Cottage of Sweets This candy shop is a well-known neighborhood joint flocked to by all who need a sweet fix. There was a line out the door formed by both candy and chocolate lovers alike. I loved its inviting and quaint storefront but loved even more the endless rows of sugary treats. Its price point, well... I didn't love as much. We were a little thrown off by the price tag of $29.95 for five pieces of chocolate. Yet, as soon as we delved in we all agreed that they were worth every penny! Carmel Bakery It is impossible to walk by Carmel Bakery without picking up some baked goods. The beautiful storefront displays a selection of homemade pastries. Inside there is an equally attractive presentation of all the masterful creations that come out of the oven throughout the day. Cultura Since all members in my family equally enjoy a great Mexican meal, we were really looking forward to dining at this well-reviewed restaurant. Although the food was solid, good but not great, the service was off base. We had to ask for my cocktail twice only for it to arrive after our second course was served. I sent it back. I ordered the house made hot sauce with our appetizer and had to ask for that twice too. By the time it arrived we were all done with the chips I wanted to dip into it. There weren't even a lot of patrons dining to excuse the lack of service. I get cranky when I spend money on a bad meal. Our fourteen year old son saved the night by ordering a small plate of grasshoppers (eek!). This was a highlight of our meal as we got some great laughs, squeals and video footage of him diving into these little insects. All About the Chocolate This is one of the most epic candy shops I've ever encountered, displayed in a playfully sophisticated manner that immediately awakens any sweet tooth. We couldn't help but linger as we admired the rows and rows of candy and chocolate. It would truly be dangerous to have this shop in my neighborhood. The chocolates are irresistible and will test anyone's will power to control the urge of stuffing their faces with as many homemade treats that can possibly fit in a mouth. The dark chocolate coconut macadamia chocolate I ordered puts my favorite Halloween candy, Mounds, to shame. I can still taste its creamy center as I type these words. The Gallery Cafe Pebble Beach is home to the well-known Pebble Beach Resort and the famous golf courses that have hosted many PGA tournaments. We made a few stops to the resort's The Gallery Café for coffee and breakfast runs. Overlooking parts of the golf course on their outdoor decks with Pacific Ocean views teasing in the background makes for a great breakfast spot. It helps that their staff is friendly and the food is delicious. Below are photos of cinnamon swirl pancakes and huevos rancheros that we thoroughly enjoyed. Both plates left no traces of any ingredients ever existing upon them. The Bench The Bench is another excellent dining option at Pebble Beach Resort. The views of the putting green along the coast of the Pacific Ocean are spectacular. At night, when the temperature drops a bit the fire pits at each table gets lit adding to the dramatic flair. We stopped by twice and can vouch that the service, cocktails and ambience are unparalleled. Cannery Row This beachside town in Monterey was once home to many sardine canning companies and also the subject of John Steinbeck's Cannery Row. Today the neighborhood covers quite a long stretch of waterfront property filled with restaurants and shops. We visited on a Sunday afternoon and were surprised by how busy it was. Thousands of people were out strolling the area. Everyone was well-masked. In fact there were signs everywhere warning of a $100 fee to all who opt out of wearing one. Because everyone was taking the necessary precautions, it was easy to enjoy the bustling town on a beautiful day. Fisherman's Wharf Also in Monterey, Fisherman's Wharf is reminiscent of a quaint New England town filled with charm and seafood restaurants along a marina. The wharf was buzzing with visitors, all well masked, enjoying fresh seafood on the many outdoor patios. The sidewalks were lively with street performers and artisans selling their crafts. We also spotted a few seals in the water. This is a really nice spot to take a leisurely stroll while enjoying the water views with an ice-cream cone in hand. It's a little tourist heavy but nevertheless a great place to spend an hour or so people watching and enjoying the energetic atmosphere. Fallen Oaks We rented a home on Pebble Beach called Fallen Oaks through VRBO. Pebble Beach is a private, guarded enclave bordered by Carmel-by-the-Sea, Pacific Grove, Monterey and The Pacific Ocean. From the moment we set foot inside the house we knew we made a great choice. The house is spotless, well stocked and in a great area with close proximity to the water, the famous 17 mile drive and world famous PGA golf courses. Leaving here was no easy task. The Lone Cypress Tree One of the most photographed trees in the country, The Lone Cypress Tree demands the attention of all who hop in their car to enjoy the windy, scenic and well-known 17 Mile Drive. The route takes drivers through The Del Monte Forest along with stretches of gorgeous mansions that have the Pacific Ocean in their backyard. There seem to be no cars on the road until you head to The Lone Cypress Tree lookout point parking lot where suddenly dozens of people emerge to marvel at the view. It's a beautiful ride indeed . Carmel has struck a special chord and pushed me to think more deeply about my life's direction. Getting a taste of something so mesmerizing truly leaves me wanting for more. Carmel has undoubtedly cast a spell on me that will be difficult to break from. There was an instant attraction and immediate connection, I truly fell in love. It's very difficult to say goodbye but something tells me we will back here again in this lifetime.
- I'm Stuck
I am stuck. I am trying to figure out how my feet ended up anchored in the thick mud that holds me back from new dreams and aspirations. Years ago, when the kids were younger, and when I was younger, I could effortlessly pick up on a whim and relocate our lives to some of my favorite places in the world. I tried desperately to convince my husband to move to Costa Rica, Barcelona and San Diego. At the time, he was the one who was stuck and could not push himself to take risks and live outside his comfort zone. Now, the tables have turned, and I am the one who is stuck and undeniably controlled by the future no matter how much I strive to live in the present. I don't want to return to New York City. There is actually nothing I really miss about it except the memories that we have built there, which I can carry with me anywhere. As we explore our absolutely gorgeous country I realize that we would have to be insane to return to a city laden with crime, litter, crowds and far-left liberals. Yet, even though we have completely fallen in love with Carmel, CA I just can't seem to pull the trigger on making a move and my mind refuses to embrace images of what a new life here would look like. These are all new emotions to me. I am not one to be attached to materialism so it is easy for me to leave behind the new furniture we purchased right before the pandemic when we redecorated our apartment or the things we have accumulated over the twelve years in our apartment. That's just stuff. I always truly felt that as long as I have my health and my family I can be anywhere with everything I need. Yet, these days I am attached to that apartment, sitting empty and alone all these months we've been on the road with no sounds of laughter, arguments or visitors filling its space. This vacant space has taken on a whole new meaning. I'm stuck. I am chained to our NYC home where our children have been raised and filled the air with the most incredible energy. As they are getting older by the second ( now 14, 12 and 10) I fear that somewhere new, the air in the house would be different. Additionally, my mind reasons that if we stay in NYC, there is a much higher chance of keeping my children nearby when they enter adulthood. I have convinced myself that somehow we will all stay connected as they build their lives somewhere in the tri-state area. This seems like a very realistic outcome to me. New York also has many great colleges and it is likely that two out of three of my nuggets would stay local. On the other hand, Carmel has no good universities nearby. Should we move here, I have 100% chance of all three of them leaving for college. The chances of them living outside of Carmel post-studies are also extremely high as there is no major industry here. Moving to Carmel guarantees a future where we are all living in different cities and states. This is not something I can risk. My husband pokes fun at my obsessive, strategic planning. He is uncertain that NYC will ever return to being the epi-center of opportunity. In his mind, the kids may be forced to leave NYC anyway because new cities will rise offering better opportunities and quality of life. Better yet, he is not as attached to making our decisions based on the likelihood of where our children will end up as adults because he insists that it is an impossible prediction. I'm stuck. Time is passing at lighting speed and I can't think clearly. I have my children by my side 24/7 these days and I struggle with imagining a life without them as close to me as possible. Unlike in the past when I could easily visualize picking up and moving anywhere in the world because they were so little and it seemed like I had countless years ahead with them, these days I realize the days are fleeting and that every move I make is crucial in determining the next outcome. I'm stuck in this wonderful bubble of exploring the United States and all the incredible sights and smells it has to offer with my children in constant tow. The catch is knowing the bubble can burst at any moment. Fear has gotten the best of me, clouding my judgment and drowning my intuition. I also realize that there is an unhealthy relationship with attachment here. Have I become too dependent on my kids? Have I become too dependent on the life we have created over the last twenty-two years back in Manhattan? I need to work through these feelings. I must. I must pull free of the quicksand that keeps pulling me tighter into its grasp. I want the old me back that had big dreams of living abroad and could act on them with a snap of a finger because nothing was holding her back. A good friend reminded me the other day that I am still a risk-taker. He pointed out that taking this road trip is a risk and that he has no concern of me losing my bounce. He continued to cheer me up by pointing out how much he admires how my family is spending our time making memories on the road during these uncertain days. These words were really helpful in encouraging me to step back and see that the flame is still burning somewhere inside me. Getting on the road for at least eight months is not a small feat and something that I know most people dream of but are perhaps too stuck in their own ways to materialize. It's what will happen after this road trip that haunts me. Will I be able to release the grip of fear, pack up twelve years of memories and start a new life elsewhere? Can I leave behind a city that I spent the last twenty-two years of my live in? Or will I give in to the relentless pull of comfort, complacency and the hopeful but unpredictable outcome of where my children will choose to live as adults? At dinner the other evening, I mentioned to my family that wherever we end up I hope that we can all make an agreement to end up on the same side of the country within driving distance of one another once they are all done with their college studies. My older one jumped in to share that he wants to be near each other but thinks it's unfair to ask for a commitment for something so far away. "True", I agreed as I lied through my teeth. Though is it fair that life blesses you with children who you love and adore more than you ever thought you were capable of loving anything and then after eighteen years of building a life with them, and around them, they just leave to begin their own lives? That's not fair. At all. In my next life, please universe, bring me back as a seal so I can wean my pups and set them free after just three weeks. This is a much less cruel and torturous existence for a mom. How will I ever, ever survive an empty nest? Ok, I am getting way ahead of myself. There are just too many thoughts circulating in my mind constricting my ability to enjoy new possibilities. I am stuck for sure but I know that I will set free of the grasp and one way or another make a decision that is best for me and my family. For now, we won't make any decisions regarding the future and will happily cling to the present so please don't ask me if we are coming back to New York or moving somewhere else. This seemingly innocuous question is pretty loaded. Until I can set myself free of these attachments I won't be able to think clearly and the first task at hand is to not think ahead and to instead nurture the bohemian in me to continue leading us on this glorious road trip. For now, regardless of where we end up, the most important thing is that we are together and that if we are stuck, we are stuck together.
- 5 Nights in Santa Barbara, CA
The last time I visited Santa Barbara was two decades ago. I am happy to report that it is just as beautiful as I remember. This coastal town oozes the Californian vibe so often bragged about by those lucky enough to call the west coast their home. With the Pacific Ocean to the west, rolling mountains to the east and a beautiful downtown adorned with Spanish Colonial architecture packed with high end retail shops and restaurants sandwiched in between, this city lacks nothing. Paseo Nuevo & State Street State Street is the main stretch of downtown that is filled with people enjoying a stroll through the Spanish tiled sidewalks, more restaurants than can ever be needed in a city with a population of less than 100,000 and a handful of adorable hidden courtyards, like Paseo Nuevo, that have even more dining and shopping options waiting to be discovered. I was really impressed with the overall large size of downtown in comparison to its pretty small population. While we soaked up the soothing energy of State Street we hit a Farmer's Market even larger than NYC's Union Square's market. The locals here have found a place that is not only surrounded by breathtaking views; they have found a place of bountiful everything- nature, produce at farmers' markets, space, stores, restaurants, sidewalks, sunshine etc... so much of everything for so few people. What a wonderful feeling it must be to feel like you have this all to yourself. La Arcada La Arcada is another example of a lovely courtyard hidden off the main path of State Street. With its fountains, sculptures and beautifully lit storefronts I just found this to be such a romantic nook. Funk Zone Once a barren area of abandoned warehouses near the main drag of Santa Barbara, Funk Zone has recently brought a cool, urban vibe to this typically upscale neighborhood. This section of the neighborhood offers a beautiful walk amidst murals, gardens and dozens of wine tasting options in hip and cleverly decorated wine bars. Oku Japanese food is one of my favorite cuisines. That being said, I am very cautious about where I eat it and especially avoid eating sushi when traveling. Its been over four months since I have enjoyed a great Japanese meal. When Oku showed up as a highly recommended nearby restaurant with consistently fantastic reviews, I rushed to reserve a table. We ordered several dishes off the menu and every bite was fresh and delicious. The service is fantastic, the outdoor heat lamps add just the right amount of warmth and the proximity to the ocean directly across the street adds to a perfect atmosphere and experience. Los Agaves Mexican food is another favorite cuisine of mine and one equally loved by all members of my family. Los Agaves appeared in my search as an award winning Mexican restaurant and on Yelp's top 5 list of best restaurants in Santa Barbara. Simple, fresh, authentic and delicious are the best ways to describe the food here. In addition, the service is warm and cheerful. This is a no frills restaurant - no reservations are taken and you order at the counter. Once you get past this, kick back, enjoy the beautiful weather and get ready for a memorable meal. Oliver's This is hands down one of the top five best vegetarian restaurants we have ever dined at. Oliver's offers a creative menu that even the biggest carnivores will enjoy, on a lovely patio with attentive service staff. We ordered nine or ten dishes to share and literally devoured every bite. If only we had more vegetarian restaurants like this in the world then perhaps those crying over climate change would be more compelled to take some action towards healing our planet by eliminating meat in their diet! Oliver's makes it very easy, and extremely enjoyable, to eat a vegetarian meal. Solvang: A forty-five minute drive outside of Santa Barbara will transport you to a fully immersive Danish experience in the town of Solvang. The small town was founded in 1911 by a group of Danes who wanted warmer winters than the coast provided. They established a town that resembles Denmark to ease those nostalgic days of bakeries serving strudels and kringles on every corner. An infinite amount of bakeries exist in this Danish town making it irresistible to calorie count while visiting. We made it our mission to try some traditional sweets from as many of them as we could handle without hitting a major sugar overload. Olsen's Danish Village Bakery Olsen's was our first stop in, and introduction to, the world of Danish baking. We ordered strudel, kringle (the most popular, and delicate, Danish treat to prepare and a must try!), meringues, macaroons and almond cake. We savored each bite on their cute outdoor patio overlooking the town's main street. Once we had a taste of Denmark's sweets and treats we were excited to track down more delicious bites during our explorations. Mortensen's This bakery wins for its aesthetics and interior design. The shop is just adorable right down to the pink boxes they pack their baked goods in. The scent of freshly baked goods trickles onto the sidewalks immediately luring all who pass by. Don't get deterred by the long line, it goes by fast and is worth the wait. We selected roughly eight different pastries to sample, all extremely delectable. The unanimous winner is the bear claw - luckily I ordered a few of these! Ingeborg's We needed a little break from bakery hopping and found a perfect distraction in Ingeborg's Danish chocolate shop. This award winning chocolatier offers unique flavors that please the palates of all chocolate lovers. My favorite was the dark chocolate patty infused with Syrah sea salt coupled with the extremely dark chocolate. The saltiness was more dominating than typical salted chocolate which I found to make for an outstanding outcome. Solvang Bakery The inviting, pink patio made it difficult to pass this adorable bakery without entering. We proceeded with excitement but unfortunately were deterred by the bees that like us, could not resist the wafting smell of sweetness. Unable to leave without buying something we quickly purchased a pound of their butter cookies which are oh so buttery, creamy and delicious! This bag didn't last more than a few hours. Dansk Bageri Conditori Kafe It suddenly dawned on me that we were missing breads in our collection of baked goods. We turned to Dansk Bageri to help us continue our difficult task of tasting all things Danish. Here we ordered an onion cheese loaf and a baguette. Although quite good, I say leave the baguettes for the French who honestly do it best. While the sweets we bought were unanimously a hit, we all agreed that breads are not a forte of the Danes. You can't be great at everything! Lodging We rented a home through VRBO tucked in the rolling hills surrounded by vineyards and farmland. While this may sound romantic, I found it to be too desolate especially when we were left home alone while my husband went to meet an old friend for dinner. Being left behind on this large property made me uncomfortably anxious by every sound I heard. Although the house and property is lovely, I am definitely not a country girl and will make sure to book a home with more proximity to civilization in the future. Nojoqui Falls We were looking forward to reaching the eighty foot water fall on this short, easy hike. Upon entering the trailhead there is a large sign warning hikers of mountain lions in the area urging them to hold on to their young children and dogs- YIKES! We proceeded noisily in hopes of warding off any lion that might take interest in us. Approximately twenty minutes into the hike we reached the fall which was sectioned off with barriers and warning signs of falling rocks. I hinted at walking around the sign but my rule-following children balked at the idea. Later, I learned that the sign is always there and that people walk around it to get to the main attraction. Oh well, one less waterfall experienced on this adventure but in return I gained the comfort of knowing that my children are rule abiding citizens who don't take dangerous risks (unlike their mother). Montecito Montecito is an exclusive coastal enclave just a few minutes away from downtown Santa Barbara with a population under ten thousand residents, with several celebrities, like Oprah Winfrey, calling it their home. This secluded section of the city surprisingly puts on no airs and instead delivers a relaxed, small town feel embraced by the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Coastal Village Road, the main street, is lined with restaurants and high end retail shops all housed is the Spanish Colonial architecture typical of Santa Barbara. Despite the town's plentiful mansions, huge properties and flashy cars an unassuming and unpretentious vibe is somehow delivered. This is a very special little place. Butterfly Beach Montecito offers some of the most beautiful stretches of sand and beach on the coast and Butterfly Beach is a perfect example of one of them. Dozens of locals joined us for a walk along the shore to enjoy the magnificent sunset. To access the beach visitors need to walk through an underpass, cross the train tracks and pass by some beautiful homes, and a quirky one adorned with pigs (yes, pigs!) and then...the boardwalk graciously greets its visitors. Getting to Butterfly Beach is making a pilgrimage to our beautiful planet Earth. Carpinteria Bluffs Nature Preserve Hiding behind a tree lined train track, the Carpinteria Bluffs Nature Preserve is simply an unbelievably beautiful gem exploding with Nature's magic touches, signs of wildlife and even human contributions to this masterpiece. We roamed this remarkable area of the shore for over an hour soaking in every ounce of the picturesque scenery. The beach is closed December through May to allow for seals to deliver their offspring along the rocks. Revelers who are fortunate enough to nail down the timing can witness the miraculous births from the bluffs above during this season. I cannot stress how immediate the impact is when connecting with the coast. Although I absolutely cherish the time we spent in the mountains, the sea is my calling. We could have easily extended our time in Santa Barbara to linger just a bit longer. The weather has been dreamy, the sun at her brightest, and the crisp air refreshing. Within a small radius there is plenty to experience even if it is doing absolutely nothing but watching a spectacular sunset. In NYC we have quite stunning sunsets along the Hudson River in our neighborhood. In twelve years I may have made an effort to catch three of them. I am not sure whether being in travel mode over the past four months has pushed us to appreciate the sun marking the end of a day or whether its just easier to make the time when the evenings are not loaded with kids' after school schedules. Although I dread the 5:00am west coast alarm call to make the 8:30am east coast school time, I am beyond grateful for this time difference which leaves our afternoons free and clear even on days with extra curricular activities on the calendar. If there was a way to keep schooling remote, extra curricular activities on line and exist three hours behind the world we connect with regularly, I will be the first one to sign up. For now, I will keep pinching myself that we've maximized the opportunity of being granted this ideal formula that keeps us in the mental head space to catch as many sunsets as we can. The sun has set one last time marking our last night in Santa Barbara but tomorrow she will greet us warmly and guide us through our next adventure.
- 2 Nights in Los Angeles, CA
I hate to admit it but our weekend in La La Land was La La Lackluster. The city, in my eyes, is a stark reminder of everything that is wrong with our country. We arrived just as Biden was declared president-elect and the celebrations erupted into the streets and sidewalks. Watching those who were rejoicing yelling at peaceful Trump supporters and even flashing their middle fingers way too generously at the Trump car processions really bothered me. Biden won. Isn't that wonderful for our country? His supporters should be happy yet even in moments of glory many resorted to expressing their disdain vehemently. Why is the divisiveness continuing to be spread and by the victorious albeit? I expected the Trump supporters to be the ones showing aggression as the "losers". Instead, from what I witnessed first-hand it seems like some Biden loyalists won't stop the harassments until any point of views not in line with their own come to an immediate halt. Can we please respect everyone's right to their own opinion? I'm not sure this code of conduct is one that is valued in this city (or many other cities in this country for that matter). When we walked around a recently depressed Third Street Promenade we almost didn't recognize it. Practically every store is boarded up with plywood in anticipation of riots and protests that were expected around election day. In contrast to our previous visits in the past, this once bustling shopping and dining center in Santa Monica was barren. The people that were honking their cars victoriously for our newly elected President are often thought to be the same ones who participated in the riots and looting that occurred post George Floyd's unjustified death. It is their very behavior of fear implementation tactics that caused Los Angeles to be boarded up once again." Follow our lead or face our wrath", their threats loom everywhere here and the boards stay up to remind us of the consequences of having differing opinions. When we drove to Venice, excited to walk around and enjoy the beach vibes with the kids, we quickly left the neighborhood without ever leaving our car. The entire boardwalk is lined with tents presumably housing the homeless population. This is a problem in the city that has gotten out of control causing it to be unenjoyable to explore many areas. Witnessing a beautiful city's slow demise is painful to watch. Perhaps it reminded me too much of what is happening back home in NYC. Mark my words, like the residents in the Upper West Side of Manhattan who have been loyal social justice advocates who later banned together to disband a homeless shelter that threatened the safety of their community, the folks of Los Angeles will soon be regretting their active participation in the destruction of a once lovely city. Oh, and the traffic here is unbearable. We also happened to arrive on the two windiest days in the city's history making walking around very uncomfortable. We received our first parking ticket since being on the road and overall, simply put had our first terrible day in the last four months. The infamous Californian Vibe skipped over the City of Angels when we arrived. While we are quite happy to put LA behind us and move forward with our next adventures, we did enjoy some great meals and a nice morning by the pier. Another highlight was meeting with old friends who moved out here and catching up over drinks. Santa Monica Pier Although the amusement park was closed due to the pandemic, the pier was open for a nice stroll. Only a handful of others dared to brace the wind's wrath on the morning of our visit. It was quite beautiful to watch the waves crashing while the mountains in the backdrop stood motionless. Third Street Promenade We visited this outdoor promenade a few times each day because of its close proximity to our hotel. As I mentioned earlier, the ever dominating boarded up storefronts were just a depressing reality of the "new normal" some cities have wrongly accepted. In reality, they boarded up in anticipation of anti-Trump protestors should the President have won presidency again. To me, this is a staunch reminder, via wooden walls, of where our democracy is heading. There is only one side that can be adhered to or else a tone of aggression, cancellation and destruction looms as a reminder of what will lie ahead to all traitors of this forced upon mainstream ideology. For better visuals of how this neighborhood has been affected, please see my Los Angeles "stories" on Instagram. Below are the best pictures I could gather. Beverly Hills Similarly, Beverly Hills is boarded up as well. Chanel, Barneys and every other store you can name have all put up their shields in fear of being raided and violated again. Rodeo Drive was entirely closed off. Heart breaking. We just drove through and never bothered getting out of our car in a neighborhood I once loved to stroll through and grab a yummy bite while people watching. Hollywood We got a $68 ticket for parking in an unclearly marked parking space for a fifteen minute walk down the Walk of Fame. This was more than enough time to walk by some seedy characters and crowds of tourists. I don't think we walked more than two blocks before we all wanted to turn back to our car and get off the strip. As we left the area in search of a great viewing spot of the iconic Hollywood sign, we almost got into a car accident. Things were really not working in our favor here. Just when we couldn't be more annoyed, a rainbow magically appeared. This was our second rainbow sighting of the day! We were greeted by one on the way out of Palm Springs and again in Hollywood. I was mesmerized by the rainbow which sucked me into recalibrating the energy of the day and the bad perspective I was holding on to. Just as I was starting to relax, a giant monster truck pulled up near us and honked so loud I nearly flew out the window. That set me off into tears. Gosh Los Angeles and I just didn't get along. The Huntley Hotel Santa Monica Beach Perhaps our experience of Los Angeles was destined to be ruined and if so, my first clue should have been when we checked in to this hotel. The hotel is very well reviewed, in a great location just one block from the beach and two blocks from Third Street Promenade, with a trendy restaurant that requires a bouncer on the weekends and tastefully decorated rooms. Yet, upon arrival I was asked to sign a three page Covid waiver releasing the hotel of any liability if we were to get sick at the property. What a warm welcome! We have been on the road for four months and have stayed in several hotels in several cities and not one has asked us to sign such a ridiculous contract. We were then told that our rooms were ready and available for an early check in at a rate of $50 per room. Isn't early check in usually a courtesy? Finally, when my husband and I went down to the bar to pick up a bottle of wine to enjoy in our room we were told that due to Covid we can no longer order wine from the bar and that we'd need to order it through room service. Um, doesn't adding another person to the mix of who contacts our bottle increase the chance of the virus spreading? No thanks. We are just operating on a completely different frequency than everyone here. Pacific Palisades This was one neighborhood that wasn't boarded up that we found truly enjoyable to be in. We loved driving around the area to house gaze and stroll in the town's upscale village. On Sundays they host a large farmer's market filled with local goodies. There are various retail shops for all shopping desires as well as a delicious chocolate shop, Sees Candy, which we of course checked out. Things were finally looking sweeter. One thing Los Angeles is still getting right is their culinary scene. We had some fantastic meals here and the service staff was consistently friendly, warm and attentive. During Covid, indoor dining is not allowed anywhere so restaurants have spilled on to sidewalks in order to accommodate their diners. Misfits Located in the Third Street Promenade this lively restaurant offers a delicious menu in a fun environment. The bar concocts great cocktails and a funky mix of music blasts to please its young crowd. We ordered their donuts which ooze with jelly and are paired with a delicious white chocolate caramel sauce for dipping desires, the best string fries you could hope for, a yummy gluten-free macaroni and cheese, perfectly crispy brussels sprouts, a fried chicken sandwich loaded with toppings, a juicy burger that yielded many groans, a falafel salad filled with flavor and a breakfast burrito that is hard to compete with. This was a meal for the books. Art Table Also in Santa Monica, Art Table serves fresh, local American fare in a creatively converted outdoor space that spills on to former street side parking spots. I really love the clever way they incorporated the parking meters into their new outdoor space and how they added turf to the curb they fenced in creating a garden feeling. We munched on their fried calamari, loaded Mexican corn, avocado toast, lamb burger and coconut curry halibut. Everything was solid and very satisfactory. The Penthouse Restaurant We enjoyed a lovely Sunday breakfast at our hotel's restaurant. We loaded up on waffles, granola, berries, chocolate croissants, omelets and chilaquiles which were well appreciated in their newly converted outdoor patio space. I wish they had a proper espresso machine in their not-so-temporary Covid space. Drip coffee only. A Votre Sante After driving through Brentwood to scope out some of the homes of the kids' favorite celebrities (like Jim Carey and Lebron James) we headed over to this neighborhood joint loved by locals. A Votre Sante offers an adorable outdoor patio and a delicious, healthy menu loaded with vegan and vegetarian options. Our nachos which were drenched in vegan cheeses was surprisingly scrumptious, the taco salad filled with veggies like corn and cabbage was equally enjoyable especially with the added flavor of the meatless steak and chili oil, their Beyond Burger is stuffed with sauerkraut, tomatoes, lettuce and avocado, the huevos rancheros and Oaxacan scramble were big hits too. We left the table with happy bellies once again. Locanda Portofino The homemade pasta, along with the other authentic Italian menu offerings, is perfectly prepared at Locanda Portofino We all enjoyed every single bite in their romantic patio. The service staff here is attentive and the atmosphere and pricing aim for a more formal experience. This is a great date night choice. I am still dreaming of my porcini pappardelle drenched in arrabbiata sauce. Our perspective locks in many of the ensuing circumstances in our lives. When we arrived to Los Angeles we were not in the best of spirits for all the reasons already described. As soon as we realized that our negative energy was driving us into a blackhole of obstacles and detriment we made a conscious decision to quickly snap out of it and begin viewing things in a better light. This new outlook truly helped us have a more enjoyable visit considering our lack of connection to the city. Had we not shifted the way we viewed our experience, I have no doubt that more catastrophes would have come our way. In reality, any day that I am alive, healthy and with my family is a great day. Then, throw in a couple of rainbows and its truly a spectacular day. The rest is just background noise which Los Angeles has too much of, resulting in momentarily distracting me from my focus. La La Land, you're not for us but there's a reason twenty million people have made you their home. Take care of those who love you loyally and I will do the same.
- 7 Nights in Palm Springs, CA
I've always dreamt of visiting Palm Springs. We have explored many areas of California in the past but have never made it to this desert oasis. It's even more beautiful than we imagined. I expected sunny skies and lots of palm trees but I didn't know that added to this beauty would be a backdrop of mountains too. We knew we picked a great first stop in California the moment we arrived. Palm Springs exudes the ultimate vacation vibe making it impossible to do anything but kick back, relax and enjoy the California sunshine. Palm Canyon Drive The main drag of Palm Springs lies on Palm Canyon Drive which is a great destination for a leisurely walk through shops, galleries, restaurants and more ice-cream shops than you can ever dream of. When we visited the area on a Sunday it was filled with people, all loyally wearing their masks, enjoying the gorgeous afternoon. Restaurant patios were packed and sidewalks were crowded. Like Los Angeles, the city has a Walk of Stars along the sidewalks honoring those celebrities who have lived in the greater Palm Springs area. The ubiquitous palm trees, combination of Mediterranean and mid-century architecture and sunny skies beckoned us to linger as long as possible. For our lodging we rented the perfect Palm Springs home, Smoketree House, through airbnb. In true Palm Springs form, the house masters mid-century architecture and interior design leaving no detail overlooked from the light switches to the faucet handles. The owners provided the most impeccable service and welcomed us with a large basket stuffed with sweet and salty treats. After check in we cleared our ambitious schedule in the week ahead ensuring that we enjoy the house and pool as much as possible. I wish we booked a longer stay here. Palm Springs leaves you no choice but to surrender to relaxation. After all the running around we have been doing, Smoketree House has been the ideal retreat to succumb to some much needed laziness. Whitewater Preserve Thirty minutes away from downtown Palm Springs you'll find this lovely gem that offers 2,600 miles of paths. You can literally walk to Canada on these trails if you've got a few months of walking in you! Although we love Canada, we opted for a shorter hike on the Whitewater Canyon View Loop to the PCT trail junction. The two mile, round trip hike took us through scenic trails packed with wildflowers, the soothing sound and sight of the Whitewater River, and beautiful views of the San Gorgonio Mountains. The trails were flat, easy to walk and well marked. Using the animal tracking map given to us by the park ranger we were able to spot many animal droppings and tracks (like bear and coyote) which added to the fun. Personally, this was one of my favorite hikes to date. Local Neighborhoods & Architecture: Hopping in the car and driving around Palm Springs admiring the unique architecture and desert landscape is a fun late afternoon activity. Driving around with the music up and windows down letting the Californian breeze hit my face as we scoped out various neighborhoods was a highlight of our week here. Movie Colony This neighborhood was once home to many Hollywood stars. It's a lovely area with mountain vistas and a mix of Spanish Colonial and modernist homes. You'll know you've found it when encountering a plot of land converted into a whimsical sculpture garden celebrating popular movie scenes. Twin Palms Frank Sinatra Estate Sinatra's former desert home is also located in the Movie Colony. Today the home is used as an event space, vacation rental and also offers private guided tours. The legendary singer built this beautiful mid-century home in 1947 after he earned his first million dollars. Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway Elvis and Priscilla Presley honeymooned here and then lived in this mid-century, iconic home for a couple of years. We loved it's unique circular shape on a quiet cul-de-sac. We drove up to Leonardo DiCaprio's Palm Spring getaway but were met with a housekeeper's suspicious eyes as she was tending to the house. I tried to snap some pictures but her car was blocking the view and her glare was too intimidating; although we were probably the scary ones driving up slowly to the celebrity's home! Instead, I snapped a picture of a home that I especially loved. The adobe style design, desert landscaping, mountain backdrop and neon lighting really caught my eye. And that front door! 325 East Francis Drive I really love this concrete home and its muted colors combined with the simple desert landscaping allowing the sky to be an everchanging color palette. The homes in Palm Springs are so beautifully simplistic. I am sure it exists somewhere out here but we saw no signs of ostentatious, over the top construction anywhere. Kaufman Desert Home This modernist masterpiece was built in 1946 and is on the market now for $25 million. This home helped shaped the future aesthetics of Palm Springs as the city was in its beginning planning stages. Since it is on private property we were only able to sneak a peek at the steel square shape of this pioneer of Palm Springs desert modern architecture. The entrance is so inviting, what a tease! Below are some other homes that are worth noting as they are examples of original homes that help shape the style of the city. Simply getting in a car and driving around here is a lesson in architecture. I've learned of architects I never knew of beforehand and the ways they helped shaped mid-century home design as well as their overall impact on the aesthetic design of Palm Springs. Tahquitz Canyon The Tahquitz Canyon trail is right outside of the main strip of Palm Springs making for an easy commute to further delve into nature. The $12.50 entrance fee, per person, is the highest price tag we have paid to date for a hike but knowing that the cost supports this beautiful park is worth every penny. The 1.8 mile loop is well marked and leads you through giant boulders that provide shade along the way while exploring this land that continues to remain sacred to the Cahuilla Indians. When we entered, the park rangers warned us that the water fall (normally gushing from a height of 60 feet) was dry with only a small pool remaining, which we already expected from recent online reviews. Regardless, when we arrived to the tiny trickle of the fall we were still able to enjoy another one of nature's masterpieces. The granite formations by the falls are beautifully smooth with various hues of grays and silvers that resemble a scene straight out of a futuristic sci-fi film. On the return loop there are beautiful views of Palm Springs in the valley below along with gigantic boulders sprinkled across the terrain that miraculously hold each other up, barely. Joshua Tree National Park When we drove into California from Las Vegas we had a two hour drive through endless fields of infinite Joshua trees so when we told the kids we were yanking them from pool time to drive an hour into Joshua National Park to see more Joshua trees they were not as enthusiastic as we hoped. After lots of protesting and complaining we made our way over happy we did not cave into their resistance. The park has put together so many breathtaking trails that highlight many aspects of nature beyond the Joshua Trees, which are certainly welcomed accessories. Each tree has its own character and shape, many with limb like branches that feel right out of a Dr. Seuss book. In fact, the kids mentioned The Lorax film a few times as we explored the park. Hidden Valley Trail I highly recommend hiking this easy, one mile loop trail when visiting the national park. The landscape is too picturesque in its perfection, it almost feels artificial. The rock formations are formed out of hundreds of rocks that look like they were thoughtfully sprinkled and stacked throughout the park. Under a beautiful sky in a pristine terrain filled with scattered desert plants really made us feel like we were in a Disney made attraction. This trail is unreal and it will take your eyes a few minutes to adjust to its natural wonders. Cholla Cactus Garden I don't understand why the Cholla cactus is not the star of Joshua Tree National Park. I stumbled upon the Cholla Cactus Garden in my research of the area but it did not pop up often or easily. This less frequented area of the park is truly otherworldly. With the skies casting its blue hues and the Chollas resembling corals, I felt like I was walking on the grounds of a great big sea floating harmoniously through magnificent marine plants. The beauty of these desert natives cannot be described in words. They have the appearance of being fuzzy and smooth but upon closer inspection you'll quickly notice their harrowing spikes. A poor, little chipmunk met his horrible death caught in the deadly spikes of one of the cacti. I thought about this little guy's last moments all evening. My husband got some spike balls stuck in his shoe and it took a large rock and lots of pounding to break them free. These cacti are no joke. Humans need a little lesson in admiring things from afar, you know..."look but don't touch" and this is the ideal setting to practice this discipline. Please add this to your bucket list. Its unforgettable. Indian Canyons There are plenty of hikes to choose from in the Indian Canyons just a few miles outside of town. We selected The Victor Trail which is a moderate, three mile hike with approximately 650 feet of ascension. This hike is not recommended for younger children as it can be quite challenging at times and there are also areas with very narrow trails at high peaks. When researching the trails in the canyon there were many recommendations to follow the paths counter clock wise. When a park ranger also recommended this to us, we decided to start backwards in this order of trails: Fern Trail, Victor Trail, Palm Trail. I can't compare it to the clockwise route that most visitors follow but I can say it was a spectacular route. In these canyons you will find the largest Californian fan palm oasis in the world. These fan palms are colossal and make an immediate impact once you enter their enchanting paths. About an hour later as we reached the peak of the mountain they looked tiny in comparison but equally mesmerizing. Perspective... This hike is adorned with various cacti species, spectacular panoramic mountain views, a small stream and of course, the Californian Palm Tree. This hike gifted us with another memorable day with nature indeed. We will truly miss Palm Springs. The environment it offered us for the week was extremely conducive to relaxing and further connecting with nature. I just felt in my element here. If it didn't get so damn hot in the summer, this is a place I would absolutely consider relocating to. One of the things I will miss most about this special spot are the nightly pink sunsets. An evening didn't go by without a special connection to the skies and clouds that floated through them in a magical display to celebrate the end of each day. I will easily notice the absence of pink, fluffy clouds above my head each evening but I will transfer there memories to my heart where they will be stored for years ahead.
- Election Day Blues
As I was baking this not-so-perfect flag cake yesterday I was caught in some thoughts on the elections and how much tension has been created in our beautiful country around the next presidency. No matter who wins, almost half the population will be disappointed by the outcome. While I have my own personal hopes of who will be elected as the next President of The United States of America, last night I decided to ease some of the tense energy floating around by baking a cake to lighten the mood. Like sage, the scent that emerges from baking rids the air of all its toxins. As I creamed the butter and sugar, it hit me that we the people are the ones who make the biggest impact in our world. If collectively we do not think outside of our own needs and extend a hand to strangers and friends, donate our time and money to important causes, raise our children with strong values of charity, kindness and empathy, and respect our beautiful Planet Earth then does it really matter who wins or loses? We are the leaders. We are the people. We are the future. Regardless of who wins, or loses, our citizens have a lot to work on before any leader can take us to a better and brighter outcome. We have a lot more work to do as Americans than to simply vote and immerse ourselves in non-stop political exchanges. Rather than worrying about who ends up winning this mess of an election, I urge you to take the next few days to consider how you can better serve your family, friends and community. If the majority of us band together to weave selfless acts, random acts of kindness, charity, authenticity, empathy and open-mindedness into our lives then we would be in great shape even if a kangaroo sits in the oval office. Of course whoever wins the presidency will make an impact on our country, but the people, us, can make an even greater impact if we re-shift and recalibrate our energy individually first. We cannot rely on the next President to change the future of our country. We are responsible for this task and before we change our country, we need to rethink how we live our individual lives.











